Besalu
| Besalu is a lovely medieval town. The 12th century Roman bridge over to the town is a real landmark. The town sits where the Rivers Fluvia and Capadella meet. If you are looking for a picturesque inland setting for a few days, Besalu is an ideal choice. It would take under an hour to drive from Girona airport, well served by Ryanair flights from all over Europe. There is a lot to do and see in the area, the Garrotxa Volcanic Park, the Dali Museum in Figueres, the coast, and the city of Girona. | ![]() |
Wilfred the Hairy, credited with the unification of Catalonia, was born in Besalu in 878. He was so named as he was as hairy as a mountain troll, even having hair of on the souls of his feet. In the Middle Ages Besalu was the capital of a country which reached up to Corbieres, now in France. Besalu was the birthplace of Ramon Vidal, a troubadour (a type of lyric poet who composed music and poetry usually on the topic of courtly love). The Church of Sant Pere, in the main square was originally part of a monastery built in 1003. The Milova is a ritual Jewish bath dating from the 11th or 12th century. It is located near the River Fluvia in the lower town. It was recently discovered and restored. You need to visit the Tourist Office in the main square to obtain the key. There is an outdoor market on Tuesdays.
In December there is the Fiera de Ratafia. This is the local "firewater"; a grappa based sweet liquor flavoured with herbs, spices, coffee and nuts. Legend tells that witches supervise its production; it is left outside for two weeks so that the magic and power of the sun and the moon can contribute to its special flavour.
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Mas Costa is a renovated 17th century traditional farmhouse in a rural location, close to a river. It is three kilometres from Besalu so you would probably be better to have your own transport if you stay here, A double room costs from 50 euros per night. |
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The three star Comte Tallaferro sits in the main square of Besalu. It was recently renovated and named after Count Bernat Tallaferro, known as the Prince and Father of the 11th century independent state of Besalu. The hotel has five suites, which have two levels, a sitting room on the first level and a bedroom on the second. These have hydro massage baths. There are junior suites which are suitable for disabled guests. The standard rooms are on the third floor. They have stonewalls, parquet floors and wooden ceilings. There are roof windows in addition to small round windows. A double room costs from 100 euros per night. |
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La Perla Hotel is located in Olot, around 18 Kilometres from Besalu. You may wish to stay in the town of Olot as it is in the Garratxo National Park. The hotel has a garden with a childrens play area. A double room costs from 79 euros per night. |
Many of the restaurants in the area are members of the Volcanic Cuisine organisation. The aim is to promote and encourage the traditional gastronomic style using local produce. There is a list or restaurants on their site.
The Oliveras restaurant in Besalu has various set and a la carte menus which start at 7.60 euros per person.
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Girona is ideal for a day trip. You can enjoy visiting the museums, or walk around the medieval town doing some shopping. |
| The Lake at Banyoles has paths so can stroll around and enjoy the lake views. Some of the boat houses are so elaborate that they look like miniature chateaux. | ![]() |
The Dali Museum in Figueres, around 20kms east of Besalu, is well worth a visit.
The Garrotxa Volcanic Park has around thirty volcanic cones. The last eruption was around 11,500 years ago, meaning that the volcanoes are inactive but not extinct. There are several walks through the park. There are many marked walking trails in the area
Museums
There are two museums in the town of Olot. The Volcanic Musuem and the ethnological Comarcal de la Garrotxa.
The Coast
Cadaques is a lovely spot, reached by a road full of hairpin bends. Its famous residents have included Dali, Picasso, Miro and Duchamps. I also rather liked the town of El Porto la Selva a little further north.
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South West France If you feel like a change, France is easily reached by motorway. It is very pretty on the coast around Luecate, just north of Perpignan. Carcassoneis a complete medieval walled city. It is rather touristy and commercialised inside but still worth a visit |





