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Dundee lies on the east coast of Scotland, around 40 miles north of Edinburgh. It is the fourth largest city in Scotland. It used to be known for the 3 "Js": jute, jam and journalism, of which journalism is the sole survivor. It is the home of the Beano and the Dandy comics started in the late 1930s. Bronze statues of three characters from the comics, Desperate Dan, Minnie the Minx and Gnasher adorn the city centre.

Desperate Dan Statue, Dundee

The city has undergone quite a renaissance in the last 20 years, beginning when the ship Discovery, built in Dundee, which transported Scott to Antartica, was brought back to the city. I was born in Dundee but only lived there until I was five years old. I have seen such a positive changes in the city over the years. It really has pulled itself up without becoming too pretentious or gentrified. I was thinking of subtitling this guide, A Personal Rediscovery.

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Dundee is a compact city with wonderful views over the Tay Estuary. I think it is ideal as a short break destination as there are the attractions of the city; a choice of shops restaurants and cafes plus visiting the Discovery, the Verdant Works, an award winning industrial heritage museum and a beautiful sandy beach at adjacent Broughty Ferry.


City Square, Dundee

Dundee's location at the mouth of the River Tay has shaped much of its history. Dundee is documented as being a trading port from the 12th century. There were imports of wine, grain and later wool and linen. Dundee was the port for many whaling ships. Dundee was already established as a textile manufacturing centre wit the weaving of linen and sail cloth, when a new innovative jute spinning process was developed there in 1833. Dundee then became the centre of jute production and earned the nickname of "Juteopolis". However the industry slid into decline in the 1920s.

Two thousand ships were built in Dundee between 1871 and 1881. The Discovery, which was used to transport Scott's ill fated expedition to the South Pole was built in Dundee in 1901. The Fleming Investment Trust company was started in Dundee in 1873, by Robert Fleming a jute baron when he started to invest in the growing US economy. His grandson was Ian Fleming, author of the James Bond books.

In June 1878 the Tay Rail Bridge opened to great acclaim, it was the longest bridge in the world. It reduced the journey time from Dundee to London by 5 hours and was used by Queen Victoria to reach her Highland retreat, Balmoral Castle. However the bridge collapsed during a severe storm in December 1879, with the loss of 75 train passengers. The bridge was rebuilt opening in 1887 using some of the original bridges girders. You can still see the stumps of the former bridges piers running alongside the current rail bridge. The Tay Road Bridge was opened in 1966, after a three and a half year construction period. I have a vague recollection of there being constant banging noises during the construction.
Tay Rail Bridge, Dundee

Dundee certainly suffered from the demise of its traditional industries which led to high unemployment and poverty. However I feel that the city really has picked itself up over the last couple of decades. I was born in Dundee but only lived there until I was five years old. Over recent years when I have visited the city I have witnessed many improvements. The city centre has been greatly improved, more attractions have been opened. Dundee is now a world class centre for biomedical research. Real Time Worlds, the developer of the computer games, Lemming and Grand Theft Auto is based in Dundee. It is also emerging as one of Scotland leading retail centres.

The ship Discovery is probably the jewel in the crown of the reborn Dundee. The ship and the visitor centre give you an insight into Scott's Expedition in his race to beat Amundsen to the South Pole.


Frigate Unicorn 

If you are interested in ships, the Frigate Unicorn and the Lightship North Carr are located at the Victoria Docks only few minutes along a riverfront walk way from the Discovery. The Unicorn is a 46 gun wooden warship, built in 1824 and the oldest British built warship still afloat. The City Quay shopping centre is at the other side of the dock. Sensation is a hands on science museum with over 80 interactive exhibits. It is very popular with families and as offers fun education about science. The Verdant Works is a former European Industrial Museum of the Year winner, telling the story of the jute industry in Dundee. There is a film show, computer displays and original machinery to help you recapture the past. Mills Observatory, tel 01382 435967, is the only full time public observatory in the UK. The main telescope, a Victorian 10" Cooke Refractor was manufactured in 1871 but is still going strong. There are regular talks and displays.


St Mary's Tower 

St Mary's Tower, know locally as the "Old Steeple",; is the highest existing medieval tower in the UK. It stands at 488 metres, and has 232 steps. It is the oldest surviving building in Dundee. To me the photo on the left of the five bronze penguins illustrates the new Dundee, fun and combining the old and the new. The sculptures were unveiled in 2005 as part of a public art programme. The penguins are heading in the direction of the Discovery, maybe hoping for a ride back to the south Pole!

The Dundee Contemporary Arts Centre encompasses a cinema, exhibitions, events and talks. There is Dundee Rep Theatre which is home to the Scottish Dance Theatre, The Rep company is on the road in 2007 performing the new highly acclaimed "Sunshine on Leith" musical with music from the Scottish twins, The Proclaimers.

The music scene in Dundee is pretty lively and the UK band tipped to become big in 2007 are the Dundee based "The View". Their debut album went straight to number one in the album charts.


View of Broughty Ferry from the castle

Broughty Ferry is a seaside town now part of Dundee. Broughty Ferry Castle was built in 1496, rebuilt in the 1860s, now houses a museum. The castle sits beside the long golden beach. Broughty Ferry was used as the northern port for passengers travelling north by rail before the first Tay Rail Bridge was constructed. It was home to the mansions built by the jute barons, away from the industrial city. It was known as "The Brighton of Scotland" as it was a popular seaside resort for day trips and holidays before the advent of package holidays to warmer climes.

Monifieth is located a couple of miles east of Broughty Ferry in the country of Angus There are several sculptures by the beach. My favourite is the dolphin bench. There's a set of six embellished standing stones and four carved wooden sea birds. There are great kids adventure playground close by, so it's an ideal location for a family outing.

Dolphin bench at Monifieth

 

Where to eat

Bon Appetit, 22 - 26 Exchange St, tel 01382 809000, is a French restaurant run by a husband and wife team, who lived in France for 20 years. The restaurants has received some pretty good reviews.

At the City Quay centre there area couple of buffet restaurants, one Indian and one Chinese, where you can eat as much as you like for a few pounds and have great views over the Unicorn and the lightship.

DD1, 31A Albert Sq, tel 01382 224471 is a relaxed family friendly bistro bar in thc city centre. They serve meals from noon until 8pm.

The Glass Pavilion is at the northern end of Broughty Ferry esplanade and has views over the Tay. This 1930s listed buidling was originally a bathing shelter. They serve meals all day with an a la carte menu on Friday and Saturday evenings and high tea (a main course followed by home baking) on a Sunday.

 

Where to stay

One of the cheapest options can be to stay in a Travelodge where you can find rooms which sleep up to 2 adults and 2 kids from only £19 or £29 a night on the Saver rate, if you book at least 18 days in advance. There are 2 Travelodges in Duindee, one in the city centre in a converted warehouse and one just off the A90 Kingsway ring road.

 

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From Dundee there are several possible day trips. Dundee is surrounded by the county of Angus. If you cross the Tay Bridge you travel south in to Fife.If you head west you are can visit Perthshire.