On a recent visit to Greece, I was invited by my cousin George to spend sometime visiting the Evros river delta, an extensive semi-wild area which forms the border between Greece and Turkey in the North of Greece.
Evros river delta where it joins the northern Aegean sea
George lives with his wife Eleni and young daughter Artemis by Alexandroupolis and has access to a 10-bed fully equipped riverside ‘hut’ which he shares with three pals, all dedicated to countryside pursuits like nature watching, fishing and hunting.
Wild horses at rough ground by the the Evros river delta
I visited at the start of November and it was unusually mild for the time of year. George took us in his 4-wheel drive Suzuki out of Alexandroupolis heading East, and about 15 miles later turned onto an unmade road. A few miles down he entered a military/conservation/unprotected zone system, denoted by massive man-made land uplifts forming a series of cirular unmade roads snaking through protected and unprotected bird habitats. Some areas were enclosed (salt lakes), while others were mixed river/north Aegean sea domains, all rich in reeds and many types of bird life.
Flock of cormorants taking off in front of our boat
The area is a real maze of waterways, separated by great sheaths of reeds. Huge flocks of swans, peewees, flamingoes, pelicans, cormorants, various species of duck and many other bird types, including herons, egrets and reed warblers were in rich abundance. We also spotted a couple of wild horses. We tried fishing from his home-made river delta/sea boat, but only caught a couple of small bass.
Morning view from George’s hut towards the riverside and small church
We spent the night in the cabin cooking rough-cut chips and home-made wild boar sausages over a gas stove, also eating various types of local cheeses and salads, while drinking locally produced red wine and chipouro (a kind of strong ouzo, sometimes an aniseed drink) and recounting stories from our shared youth. Sleep came pretty easily, we turned the generator off and enjoyed the light of a lantern consisting a wick in the centre of a round piece of cork floating over a glassful of water and olive oil. Breakfast was George’s friends’ home produced honey over rough-cut wholemal bread with strong Greek coffee.
Home-made Evros river delta boats
This type of excursion is not readily available commercially, however my cousin said that several other hut owners organise such events for gun shell/fishing hook-and-bait money.
My smiling cousin George by his boat
Needless to say we eventually had to get back to civilisation, when his accommodating wife kindly let us use the shower facilities in exchange for our poor catch. Still, the sightings and experience were pretty unique, at least in my experience.