We prefer to take our car for trips within the UK. It costs a lot to own a car, so it makes sense to use it as much as possible, especially as we have an economincal diesel super-mini. However, it’s a pretty long drive down from Berwick upon Tweed to Plymouth and the roads in Devon get pretty congested.
Previously, I’d had a quick look at the option of travelling to Plymouth by train. There is a direct Cross Country train, but the return fare is often near enough £200, which seems excessive.
I decided to check out other options for the journey from Berwick upon Tweed to Plymouth in September on the GoEuro site, which searches through all available rail, bus and air routes.
It’s cheaper to take the train via London, first travelling there by East Coast and then by First Great Western to Plymouth. But that increases the journey time from 8 hours to around 14 hours. I did think that with a flexible return ticket you could have at least one stopover in London. We could further reduce the train fare if we bought a Two Together railcard, which gives one third off most off-peak fares for two named passengers travelling together. Although this discount card costs £30, we could save more than the cost on that one long trip.
I hadn’t considered flying, but GoEuro came up with flights from Newcastle upon Tyne to Bristol with easyJet. Surprisingly, even factoring in rail travel from Berwick upon Tweed to Newcastle and from Bristol to Plymouth, the cost was lower than undertaking the whole journey by train. The estimated journey length was around 14 hours, the same as travelling the whole way by train via London.
I wasn’t very keen on that option. I thought that there was a higher chance of things going wrong with the increased number of connections, e.g. if the train to Newcastle was late and we missed the flight to Bristol, or if our arrival into Bristol was delayed and we missed the train to Plymouth.
The cheapest option was taking the coach via London, which again took around 14 hours. I thought that it was quite possible that there could be delays on the motorway, plus I didn’t really fancy spending so many hours on a coach. At least on a train you can walk around more.
In conclusion, I thought that trying to find the lowest fare for the direct Cross Country train would be my preferred option for travelling between Berwick upon Tweed and Plymouth.
Camden Lock Market is another one of these London attractions that I’ve been meaning to visit for years. I decided to walk there from my hotel, the Tune London King’s Cross, via Regent’s Canal.
I have to say that the market was looking pretty tatty on the approach along the towpath.
It’s quite confusing, as each section of the market apparently has a different name, but the demarcationa aren’t very clear. The first area, to the east of Chalk Farm Road, had ‘Camden Lock Village’ painted on the wall behind the stalls.
That’s not the only confusing thing. You’d imagine that Camden Lock Market would be on Camden High St, but in fact it’s on either side of Chalk Farm Rd. However, it only takes a few minutes to walk up to the market from Camden Town tube station.
You get some of the best views of Camden Lock Market from Chalk Farm Bridge.
There were a number of food stalls in Camden Lock Village charging reasonable prices, e.g. Â£4 for fair sized main course, with seating on canal view motor bike style seats.
For me, the only unit in Camden Lock Village which had some character was ‘Planet’ which stocked punk style clothing.
I didn’t see a name on the two storey indoor market which I entered after crossing Chalk Farm Road.
The circular window was very striking.
There were some unusual items for sale; the ‘Record ‘Breakers’ stall soldÂ clocks made out of vinyl records.
Another stall was selling old cameras and typewriters.
The public toilets are just off the first floor of the indoor market.
There was a courtyard area at the side of the indoor market with lots of outdoor seating. One of dining options was paella served from a huge cooking dish.
The Camden Lock Footbridge was pretty.
Overall, I wasn’t that impressed by Camden Lock Market. I was left with an impression of a shabby tourist trap selling a lot of overpriced tat. Having said that, on a sunny day it could be quite pleasant to sit out with a coffee or drink by the canal.
Kings Place describes itself as “a hub for music, art dialogue and food”. I spotted it as I was walking north from King’s Cross station toward Regent’s Canal to take the tow path to Camden Lock. From the exterior, it wasn’t that obvious what it was, I thought maybe a shopping centre, with the Guardian/Observer premises taking up one side of the building. I did some research on Kings Place back at my hotel room that evening and decided to visit on the last day of my stay in London.
On arrival at Kings Place, I went down to the Gallery area to see the ‘Looking Out, Looking In’ exhibition by Lucy Jones.
Hall One at King’s Place
There’s a cafe and a restaurant with some outdoor seating in a terrace at the back of Kings Place. The tarrace overlooks Battlebridge Basin on Regent’s Canal. There was a Â£10 lunch offer for a traditional British main course with a drink when I was there.
Tables on terrace at Kings Place
It was a wet morning, so there were only a couple of smokers out on the terrace, but I can imagine that it must get very busy on pleasamt Summer evenings.
Swans in Battlebridge Basin viewed from Kings Place
Sculpture on terrace at King’s PlaceÂ
Sculpture on terrace at Kings Place
When I’m catching a train back to Berwick upon Tweed, I like to arrive at King’s Cross Station around one hour before my departure time. Next time that I’m returning from London by train, I’ll probably walk up to Kings Place, instead of hanging around at the station.
After exploring Little Venice,Â I decided to have a walk along the Grand Union Canal heading west to Westbourne Park. Along the route I had a chat with a barge resident who recommended that I visit Meanwhile Gardens.
My favourite part of Meanwhile Gardens was the Moroccan Garden, opened in 2007. The tiled fountain area was pretty.
There were also a couple of rectangular pools.
Further along was a larger pondÂ with water lilies.
There were some ducklings in the thick long grass at the side of the pond.
So if you are walking along Grand Union Canal tow path, take a short detour into Meanwhile Gardens.
I’d been wanting to visit the Wallace Collection in London since I read about it in Margaret’s article on ‘Quirky Collections in London with Free Entry‘ on Europe a la Carte. I finally made it to the museum in early 2014. There’s no admission fee and you can leave your jacket/bag in the cloak room free of charge.
The building, formerly the family home of theÂ Marquesses of Hertford, was bequeathed to the nation in 1897.
The main staircase is very imposing.
The Courtyard Restaurant looked lovely.
I started my visit on the lower ground floor, where there was a selection of modern art. I thought that there was a lot of truth in the words installation.
I wasn’tÂ sure what to make of the next piece. It looked a bit like a giant decorated candle.
I thought that the piece below looked like a red jelly breast squished into the bottom corner of a large cage.
What I liked most about the Wallace Collection was that it felt like walking through a grand home, as opposed to a museum with exhibits laid out.
There were lot of glitzy chandeliers.
The Wallace Collection is home to a renowned assembly of armoury.
I’d recommend that you visit the Wallace Collection; it really gives you a glimpse into what it must be like to live in a grand home. Especially so if you visit at a quiet time and have a room to yourself for a few minutes.
The Wallace Collection is open seven days a week from 10am – 5pm. It’s located a five minute walk from the Bond Street tube station on Oxford St.
I’ve enjoyed getting off the beaten track in London and exploring some less well known areas of the capital. This approach started for a couple of reasons. I’d seen many of the big attractions in central London and I decided to look further afield to find more affordable hotels.
Based on recent stays at hotels outside the city centre, here are my tips for discovering London beyond the tourist hotspots.
West India Quay
West India Quay isn’t as well known as its neighbour Canary Wharf. It’s home to the Museum of London Docklands, where you can find out about London’s history as a port in this former warehouse. I learned about the Princess Alice disaster, in which more than 650 passengers of this paddle steamer died in a collision with another vessel in the River Thames. The Museum of London Docklands is free to enter and open every day, except 24 -2 December, from 10am to 6pm.
Museum of London Docklands in West India Quay
The West India Quay footbridge sits on pontoons which enable the bridge to rise and fall as water levels change. The bridge looks at its best after dark once it’s illuminated. There are several pubs and cafes with outdoor seating in the Quay. I was there in November, so sat inside to eat my fish and chips at the Via Bar.
The West India Quay pedestrian pontoon bridge at dusk
The main meetings as St Peter’s Barge floating church are on Sundays at 10.30am and 6pm, after which free coffee and cake are served during the open forum discussing a theme from the bible.
St Peter’s Barge church in West India Quay
It only takes a few minutes to walk to Newham City Farm from Prince Albert Station on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR). The city farm has been operational since 1997. I found it interesting to watch a blacksmith shoeing a horse during my visit.Â Newham City Farm is free to enter and it’s closed on Mondays (except Bank Holidays); it’s open from 10am – 4pm in Winter and 10am – 5pm in Summer.
Entrance to Newham City Farm
Donkey at Newham City Farm
In North Clapham’s Landor Road you’ll find the Landor Pub, which has a small theatre on the first floor, and the Sew Over It sewing cafe and shop.
Sew Over It in North Landor Rd
You can have a Greek feast at Sappho’s Meze Bar, just down from North Clapham Tube station, for around Â£11. Make sure that you have cash, as they don’t accept card payments.
Meze at Sappho’s
I walked to the Geffyre Museum, close to Hoxton Overground Station, when I was staying in Bethnal Green, The museum focuses on the history of the home, with rooms from different periods of history. It’s free to enter, open 10am – 5pm, but closed on Mondays (except Bank Holidays).
1960s living room at the Geffyre Museum
Art at the Geffyre Museum
Royal Victoria Dock
Royal Victoria Dock, which opened in 1855, was the first London dock to be built for large steam ships. The Dock’s traffic dropped with the introduction of container ships, leading to closure in 1980. It was in the spotlight in 1988 when Jean Michel Jarre, a French electronic musician, performed an outdoor concert there. Excel, the huge exhibition venue, opened close to the dock in 2000. From the dock you can cross the River Thames in the Emirates Air Line cable car to North Greenwich.
Emirates Air Line cable car at Royal Victoria Dock
You can try your hand at wakeboarding and stand up paddleboarding
Watersports at Royal Victoria Dock
The Crystal is home to the World’s largest sustainability exhibition with ten zones looking at issues such as cities of the future, smart buldings and urban planning. Admission costs Â£8 per adult and it’s free for under18s or those in full time education. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 10am -5pm, with late opening until 7pm on Saturday and Sunday.
I’d seen Limehouse Basin, previously called Regent’s Canal Dock, on many occasions from the DLR train en route to the Excel exhibition centre to attend the World Travel Market. When I was staying in Stepney Green, I finally got around to visiting Limehouse Basin, which was built to enable ships to transfer their cargo onto barges for transportation along Regent’s Canal.
Barges in Limehouse Basin
I stayed in Woolwich, as it was within walking distance of Excel by either taking the free Woolwich Ferry or walking through the Woolwich Foot Tunnel, to get across the River Thames.
The Museum of Childhood is located close to Bethnal Green Tube station. I spotted quite a few items from my childhood, such as a Chopper bicycle and troll dolls. It’s free to enter, the museum is open every day from 10am – 5.45pm.
Museum of Childhood in Bethnal Green
Puppets the Museum of Childhood
Brixton Village is a covered market in south London. There’s an array of ingredients for Caribbean cooking and restaurants from around the World. I ate at the Casa Morita Mexican restaurant.
Cafes and restaurants in Brixton Village
Fruit and veg stalls at Brixton Village
The Ragged School Museum was formerly a Dr Barnardo’s school. On Sundays, at either 2.50pm or 3.30pm,Â you can attend a 45 minute Victorian lesson. The teacher will be in costume and you can try writing on a slateboard.Â It’s free to enter the museum (although a donation of Â£2 for the lesson is suggested). Opening hours are limited,10am to 5pm on Wednesday and Thursday, 2pm to 5pm on the first Sunday of the month.
Classroom at the Ragged School Museum
Victorian kitchen at the Ragged School Museum
I hope that you’ve enjoyed my tour of London off the beaten track.
My Tips on Finding London Hotels
I start my hotel search on a price comparison site, such as HotelsCombined, which trawls through 30+ travel sites to find the lowest hotel prices. My next step in finding a hotel in London, is to check out the websites of large chains such as Accor, which have a good selection of value rooms in various areas in London. I’ve rarely found cheaper prices at hotel chains on price comparison sites.
Once I’ve found some keenly priced rooms, I check that the hotels are located close to good public transport links; I find the Tube or Overground easier to navigate than the bus. Then I have a look at things to do and see in, or close to, that area.
Based on my research, I narrow my options to two or three hotels which offer a combination of a good price, accessibility and location in an interesting area. Before booking, I check if there are any discount codes or cashback available for these hotels.
My walk along Regent’s Canal from Kings Place to Camden Lock didn’t get off to the best of starts, as the first section of the tow path was blocked off for maintanance work. However, I was able to do a detour north through Handyside Gardens, west along Handyside Rd and south down Stable St to reach the steps down the tow path to Granary Square.
The ‘Grain Store’ restaurant in GranaryÂ Square
The fountain with 1080 jets at Granary Sqaure didn’t appear to be working. Maybe all the recent rain had flooded the system.
The non operation fountain in Granary Square
There’s a lot of construction taking place by the canal including ‘The Coal Drops’Â – a retail and leisure develpment which will feature the Victorian arches and cobbled street
‘The Coal Drops’ information board
‘The Coal Drops’ arches
The construction site boarding is decorated with fish.
Narrow boat on the Regent’s Canal
There was more tow pathÂ maintenance further along, but this time there was a pontoon provided as an alternative route.
Pontoon on Regent’s Canal
Some of the old gas holders are being retained.
Approaching the St Pancras Lock on the Regent’s Canal
St Pancras Lock house
Skull street art by the Regent’s Canal
There’s a mural adorning the canalside wall of the Constitution Pub in Camden, know as the ‘Con in Camden‘.
‘Con in Camden’ mural
‘Con in Camden’ mural
A bit further along the tow path, there’s what looks like a mural painted by kids under a b bridge.
Mural under a bridge on theÂ Regent’s Canal
Space pod style flats at the canalside
Camden Lock on the Regent’s Canal
The ‘Guilder’s Stone close to the bridge at Camden Lock bears the inscription ‘originally the keystone of the old bridge built in 1815, removed 1876′. I couldn’t understand the relationship of the keystone to a guilder, which I only knew as the former currency of the Netherlands.Â I wondered if it was related to a guild (a trade association) for stone masons. When I did an online search, there was a suggestion that there was an error in the inscription and that guilder should have been builder
Guilder’s Stone at Camden Lock
There’s some more up to date street art close to the Guilder’s Stone. It was strange to see the role reversal in the piece below; the boy with the large rifle on his back and the soldier carrying the toy rabbit.
Role reversal street art at Camden Lock
The face depicted in the tile art looked rather like David Bowie.
Tile street art at Camden Lock
View of Camden Lock from Chalk Farm Rd Bridge in Camden
Handyside Gardens are located a ten minute walk from King’s Cross station. You need to exit the station at the eastern end, then walk north up York Place. The gardens will be on your left immediately after crossing Regent’s Canal.
I loved the colourful flowers painted onto the reflective background.
There’s a small stream, some benches and a chiildren’s play area in Handyside Gardens.
There was still some construction work going on at one side of the gardens during my visit in January 2014.
There are real flowers and plants in the raised beds.
I always like to visit less well known attractions when I’m in London. I had a look at what was within striking distance of the Travelodge London Bethnal Green and thought that the Geffyre Museum in Hoxton sounded interesting.The museum focuses on the history of the home over the last 400 years. It’s free to enter the musuem, which is closed on Mondays.
Exterior of Geffyre Museum
I received such a geniune warm welcome from the member of staff at the reception desk when I entered the museum. There were plenty of free lockers; great for dumping my jacket and backpack. The first section of the Geffyre Museum is in the original building and features rooms from earlier periods.
1830s room at the Geffyre Museum
1870s room at the Geffyre Museum
1890s room at the Geffyre Museum
The Garden Reading Room was the museum’s cafe until the extension was built in the 1990s.
Garden Reading Room at the Geffyre Museum
Strangely proportioned horse on mural in Garden Reading Room
Unfortunately, the Herb garden is only open from 1 April to 30 October, so was closed during my visit in early November.
Herb Garden at Geffyre Museum
The new wing of the Museum, designed by architects Coates Branson, opened in 1998.
Cafe at Geffyre Museum
I loved the staircase.
Beautiful staircase at the Geffyre Museum London
1930s room at the Geffyre Museum
Painting of Madge Garland, Lady Ashton, at the Geffyre Museum
It was quite strange looking at the 1960s room, as some elements, especially the dining table, the wall shelves and cabinets. looked very similar to my childhood home. We certainly didn’t have such a trendy, small TV.
1960s room at the Geffyre Museum
Speaking of TVs, this futuristic Videosphere TV was manufactured by JVC in 1967.
1967 VideosphereTV at the Geffyre Museum
I’d recommend that you visit the Geffyre Museum in London. It gives a great insight into how homes have changed over the century. The fact that the staff are so amiable and ethusiastic about their workplace makes a visit even more enjoyable.
I saw a sign for the London Canal Museum as I walked up York Place to start my stroll along the Regent’s Canal to Camden Lock Market. It seemed very appropriate, as I was about to walk along a canal. However, as my walk was planned to coincide with the one dry morning during my stay in London, I decided to visit the Museum another day.
Upon entry to the London Canal Museum, I was drawn to the colouful narrow boat ‘Coronis’.
‘Coronis’ narrow boat at the London Canal Museum
I can’t imagine how cramped it must’ve been for a family to live onboard. There wasn’t much space to move with just me aboard.
Interior of the ‘Coronis’ narrow boat
Range on the ‘Coronis’ narrow boat
Many narrow boats would be kitted out with ‘canal art’ untensils.
‘Canal Art’ at the London Canal Museum
To reduce constuction costs, canal tunnels were as narrow as possible. This meant that there was no space for a tow path for the horse pulling the boat to walk along. Therefore the vessel had to be powered by ‘legging’, whereby two people would lie on their backs on a piece of wood on the front deckÂ and use their feet to propel the boat forward.
‘Legging’ through a canal tunnel
Ground floor of the London Canal Museum
Winching equipment at the London Canal Museum
The museum building was formerly an ice storage facility. From the 1820s most of the ice used for food preservation and ice cream making in the UK was imported from Norway.
Ice wells information board
Swiss Italian immigrant Carlo Gatti stared his ice importation and storage business on the site in 1857.Â By 1901, Gatti was the largest ice merchant in London.
Carlo Gatti information board
There’s a door at the rear of the London Canal Museum.
Rear of the London Canal Museum
You can sit at the picnic bench there to admire Battlebridge Basin on the Regent’s Canal.
Battlebridge Basin from the rear of the London Canal Museum
Upstairs there was a temporary exhibition of lino print style art by Eric Gaskell.
‘Canal Linocuts’ poster
‘Canal Linocuts’ at the London Canal Museum
After looking at the detailed map of Regent’s Canal, I decided that next time I come to London I’d like to walk along the Regent’s Canal in either the Hoxton or Little Venice areas.
Map of Regent’s Canal a the London Canal Museum
I enjoyed watching some old films about life on the canals.
The London Canal Museum is lcoated in New Wharf Rd, a ten minute walk from King’s Cross station. It’sÂ open from 10am to 4.30pm from Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Mondays). Admission costs Â£4 for adults, Â£3 for seniors and Â£2 for kids aged 5-15.