Archive for the ‘Sweden’ Category

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An Afternoon at Ulriksdal Palace

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

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Ulriksdal Palace is situated just north of Stockholm in Solna. The palace is close enough to be a perfect afternoon outing. The subways head out in that direction and will leave you with about a 15 minute walk through a national park.

Ulriksdal Palace

After wandering through the park you’ll come across the castle on the shore of Edsviken which leads out to the Baltic Sea. Built during the 1600s, Ulriksdal Palace was once used as a country residence for the royal family. However, the palace has been accessible to the public since 1986. Unfortunately, the palace is only open to visitors during the summer months (June, July, and August in Sweden), but the grounds are open year round.

Ulriksdal Palace Looking out Over the Grounds

Various buildings dot the area, most of which are museums open to visitors. I stumbled upon a beautiful old church that, unfortunately, did not seem to be open to the public. Every last door was locked. I checked.

It is Ulriksdal Palace though that is the draw in terms of buildings. But I have to confess, I did not go into the palace. I was distracted by the beautiful natural setting and slowly made my way through the park. I was not alone. Scores of people were out and about enjoying the weather, the view, and the park. Wasting away the afternoon in the best possible way.

Ulriksdal Palace from the Distance

If you’re looking for an easy get-away from Stockholm, Ulriksdal Palace allows you to escape the city without having to go too far.

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A Traditional Midsummer in Järvsö, Sweden

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Swedes love the sun. In a county that sees more darkness than light during the winter, this is not surprising. So when the summer solstice rolls around, Swedes are ready to celebrate.

Midsummer is an official holiday in Sweden. It is not necessarily celebrated on the day of the summer solstice but the Friday and Saturday of the summer solstice weekend. It is a celebration focused on tradition. Everything from what songs to sing, dances to dance, foods to eat, and clothes to wear.

Järvsö Midsummer Swedish Flag

I have spent a few Midsummer’s in Sweden now. Each one has been a bit different. But this year was one of the more traditional ones. Mostly because I found myself in Järvsö, Sweden. A small little town about 300 km north of Stockholm near the eastern coast of Sweden.

Järvsö Midsummer May Pole

Järvsö is right in the middle of the Hälsingland region, a region that seems to pride itself on nature and of course its folk costumes and folk dancing. And there is no better time to see traditional Swedish folk dancing than at Midsummer. Swedes dance around the May pole holding hands, singing along to classic songs about cleaning the home or small frogs (a traditional song whose meaning still escapes me). All in all, Midsummer is a time to enjoy the daylight. Even if it might be raining, as it was in many parts of Sweden this year.

Järvsö Midsummer Folk Dancing

Sweden tends to be one of those countries that most people visit during the summer. The winter months, while charming in my opinion, don’t always appeal to everyone. So if you find yourself traveling to Sweden, aim for the summer solstice. Spend your vacation up north with nearly 20 hours of daylight while dancing around a May pole singing about small frogs.

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The Viking Town of Birka – Sweden’s Oldest Town

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

The word “Viking” often conjures up visions of sea-faring warriors with horned helmets. And while some of those stereotypes are true, the horned helmets are not. Even the warrior part only applied to a small percentage of the population of Sweden during the Viking age.

Those who weren’t busy raiding and trading stayed in Sweden. Farming, and even founding towns. Like Birka.

Birka is the perfect day-trip destination from Stockholm. Boats leave every day during the summer months from in front of Stockholm City Hall. The boat ride lasts about two hours and guides (sometimes actual archeologists) dressed in Viking garb pipe in during the trip describing the history of the surrounding areas.

Birka Viking View

Birka is often referred to as Sweden’s first town. The town was founded in the middle of the 800s, and abandoned about 15 or 20 years later. No one knows exactly why. Today, Birka is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Birka Town Wall

For those hoping that the UNESCO designation means the chance to traipse through archeological ruins, you will be disappointed. The Viking age was marked by wooden buildings. As a general rule, wooden buildings do not preserve well over the course of a thousand years.

Birka Burial Mounds

Birka is home, however, to one of Scandinavia’s largest Viking age burial grounds. The burial mounds dot the landscape when entering through the gates that mark the UNESCO site. The surrounding countryside is spectacular. The rolling hills, free roaming sheep, and a view of the lake dotted by the Swedish islands make a trip to Birka a wonderful day trip away from the city.

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The Vasa Museum and Sweden’s Age of Greatness

Wednesday, June 10th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Few museums can equal the Vasa when it comes to first impressions. Granted, it is just a ship. And it is just a museum. So take that for what it is worth. But walking through the heavily tinted doors, the centuries old ship cuts an imposing figure.

vasa-museum-1

The Vasa, originally built in the 1620s as one of the Swedish kingdoms regal warships, has been on display in its current location in Stockholm since 1990. Before being moved to the museum which now bears its name on Djurgården island, the ship lay on the sea floor.

vasa-museum-2

In 1628, the ship sank. Tipping over because of poor stability caused by the 64 guns on board and the lack of counterweight below deck. (The museum does a much better job of explaining this than I ever could.)

For over 300 years the ship lay preserved by the brackish water of the Baltic Sea. In 1956, it was rediscovered, and five years later brought to the surface.

Today, it is one of the most visited museums in all of Scandinavia. With good reason. The impeccably preserved ship has a way of transporting a person back to the 17th century. That first impression that is so powerful is followed by an impressive array of exhibitions. The museum gives an in depth look into 17th century Sweden and its age of greatness.

vasa-museum-3

The Vasa is often listed as a tourist destination in guide books and brochures. To be honest, the crowds tend to be overwhelming. Especially in the summer months. As a general rule, I try to avoid crowds when out exploring Stockholm, but the Vasa is well worth braving the throngs of visitors.

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Camping in Sweden and the Right of Public Access

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Sweden prides itself on its natural beauty. As it should. With that pride comes Allemansrätten. Literally it translates to “everyman’s right.” A better definition though comes from Naturvårdsverket, the government environmental agency.

Naturvårdsverket writes: “The Right of Public Access is a unique right to roam freely in the countryside. But with the right come responsibilities – to take care of nature and wildlife and to show consideration for landowners and for other people enjoying the countryside. The Swedish EPA sums up the Right of Public Access in the phrase ‘Don’t disturb – Don’t destroy.’” The right of public access goes on to say that, “You may pitch your tent for a night or two in the countryside as long as you don’t disturb the landowner or cause damage to nature.”

With an offer like that, I couldn’t resist the urge to go camping. There are plenty of areas around Stockholm that make for great camping. There are boats that go out to the archipelago on a regular basis so you can head on out and just catch the boat back the next day. I have a car however. So I used it.

lake-siljan-sunset

I drove about 300 km north of Stockholm to the region known as Dalarna. I was heading to a lake formed by a meteor millions of years ago called Lake Siljan. I was not disappointed.

lake-siljan-coast

Lake Siljan is big. Around 75 km big. Which really speaks to the size of the meteor that must have come hurtling towards the earth. Today the imprint of the meteor makes for a beautiful lake. A shimmering blue that captured the late Swedish sunlight dancing across the water. I couldn’t resist the water any longer and suddenly found myself trying to swim in northern Swedish waters in May. Despite the sun not setting until 11 in the evening, the romanticism of the water was shattered when I realized just how cold it was.

lake-siljan

I had learned a valuable lesson, and as I lay down to sleep the sun still casting a soft glow, I couldn’t help but admire Sweden’s right to public access, Allemansrätten. Exploring the country side. Falling asleep in front of a prehistoric lake. Learning a valuable lesson about water temperature. It made for a wonderful camping experience in Sweden.

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The Other Side of Culture – Basketball in Sweden

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Often times, traveling to a different city means exploring the culture of the city. The museums. The restaurants. The architecture. Europe has plenty to offer in terms of culture. But culture has many different aspects. Sports being one of them.

That’s how I found myself taking in a professional basketball game in Solna, a suburb of Stockholm. Basketball isn’t exactly a quintessential Swedish sport, but it was a Swedish league.

solna-vs-uppsala

Of the 11 teams that comprise Basketligan, the professional Swedish basketball league, two are in the Stockholm area, with two additional teams less than an hour away. Despite this, the sport is very much a fringe sport. It was exactly this reason that attracted me to the game. The fringe of Swedish sports culture meeting the mainstream of American sports culture.

For just 150 SEK I was able to see a semi-final basketball game. The level of basketball was better than expected. The crowd was small but vocal. The intensity of the players was nothing short of professional. Which, to be quite honest, should be expected of all professional athletes but is sometimes lacking.

The game demonstrated the passion so often associated with Swedish sports. Both from the players’ perspective as well as the fans’ perspective. And while the sheer numbers couldn’t compete with the crowd watching the Swedish hockey team, those few fans that were there made it into an event worthy of the ticket price.

A basketball game in Sweden is not a classic tourist attraction. In fact, it’s not even one of those out of the way tourist attractions. But it is a part of Swedish culture, no matter how small, and one that very few people have experienced.

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Glimmingehus: Sweden’s oldest medieval manor house

Wednesday, May 6th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Southern Sweden, known as Skåne, was once part of Denmark. Today, the region is dotted by centuries old farms, manor houses, and the occasional castle.

glimmingehus-side-view

Glimmingehus is one of Sweden’s older medieval buildings with construction having started in 1499. Not really looking like your classic castle, Glimmingehus was built as a fortress meant to defend what was then Denmark. Apparently, the strength of the fortress was never tested and instead it was used as a residence for the Danish knight Jens Holgersen Ulfstand.

Today, Glimmingehus is a classic medieval ruin. The building allows almost total access complete with various booby traps, none of which seem to be active. Although, the holes in the floors and walls designed for boiling tar and large rocks to be thrown onto unsuspecting enemy invaders is a stark reminder of the security measures in use at the time.

glimmingehus-inside

Luckily, the employees of Glimmingehus who now guide people through the building avoid any form of medieval violence, instead focusing on the history of the area, the building, and southern Sweden. While a bit out of the way, a short day trip to Glimmingehus allows you to escape into the often overlooked medieval history of Scandinavia.

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Posted in Architecture, Culture, Day trips, Sweden by Marcus Cederstrom | 2 Comments »

The View from Stadshuset over Stockholm

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

stadshuset-stockholm

Stadshuset, Stockholm’s City Hall, is home every year to the Nobel Prize banquet in the Blue Hall. While you might not be able to get an invite to one of the most prestigious events in Sweden, you can still explore Stadshuset.

Guided tours allow you to see City Hall, and the Blue Hall where the banquet takes place. But for anyone willing to do some hiking, the City Hall Tower is the place to be.

From April through September, for 30 SEK you can hike to the top of the Tower. But a few tips:

  • Go to the toilet beforehand. There are no toilets in the building, at least none for the general public. 
  • Bring a camera. The view is one of the best in all of Stockholm.
  • Be prepared to wait in line. They only allow a certain amount of people in at a time.
  • Stretch. There are a lot of stairs, 365 of them. And the elevator only goes half-way up. 

 

riddarholmen-from-stadshuset-stockholm

 

Once at the top you are offered a 360 degree view of all of Stockholm. Soak it all up, because on a clear day, there is no better place to be. The entire city unfolds in front of you. The numerous islands of Stockholm become obvious, and the city comes alive.

 

royal-castle-from-stadshuset-stockholm

 

Stadshuset is well worth the 30 SEK and the climb to the top. Even if you do really have to pee because of the lack of toilets.

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Posted in Sweden by Marcus Cederstrom | 2 Comments »

The Best Outdoor Seating in Stockholm

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Finally. The long-awaited spring has come to Stockholm. The sun has been shining. The ice has melted away. The flowers are showing themselves. Stockholm is in the throes of spring.

Aside from the natural signs of spring, there are a few man-made signs here in Stockholm. Like the throngs of people sitting along the water eating ice cream. Or the blinding white skin of Swedes everywhere. But most important, is the return of outdoor seating.

Everywhere you look, cafes, restaurants, and bars are setting up their tables and chairs along the sidewalk. But one place rises above the rest. The best outdoor seating in Stockholm: Mosebacke Etablissement. 

View over Stockholm

Situated on top of a hill on Södermalm, the island just south of Old Town, Mosebacke looks north out towards the city. From it, you can see the many church spires of Stockholm, as well as the Royal Castle and City Hall.

The restaurant/bar boasts some of the best live music that Stockholm has to offer. Not only that, but during the spring and summer months, the outdoor seating is filled with people reveling in the Swedish sunshine, having a beer, or maybe playing foosball near the outdoor bar.

Mosebacke - Stockholm, Sweden

You can never choose your weather when you travel, but you can choose what you do with it. And if you find yourself in Stockholm with the sun shining, make your way to Södermalm and Mosebacke for a drink.

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Posted in Restaurants, Sweden by Marcus Cederstrom | 2 Comments »

Spring Skiing at Romme Alpin, Sweden

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Romme Alpin - Top of Mountain

Sweden is not a ski destination. Let’s be perfectly honest. There is better skiing to be found in Europe. As a general rule, the country provides better cross-country skiing than downhill skiing. That being said, if you find yourself in Stockholm with a day to kill and need to satisfy your urge to ski, Romme Alpin near Borlänge, is perfect.

Romme Alpin sits on 60 hectares of land and has 19 km of skiable trails, the longest being 2700 meters. It boasts 11 lifts, two of which are six-person high-speed chairlifts. Maybe most important of all though is their snowmaking capabilities. The mountain is equippedwith 500 snow cannons. Because while it is about 200 km north-west of Stockholm, snow is not guaranteed.

Romme Alpin - Chairlift

To help you make that 200 km trek, Romme Alpin offers a ski bus that leaves from Stockholm’s Central Station every Saturday starting in January. For 415 SEK you get a ride out to the mountain and a lift ticket. The bus leaves Central Station at 6:30 in the morning and you’ll be on the mountain skiing by around 9:30. You’ll need to be back on the bus by 4:15 when the bus heads back to Stockholm.

If you need to rent equipment, for an extra 260 SEK you can get a simple rental package of boots, skis, and poles. If you happen to be skiing with a child under seven, they ski free, as long as they are wearing a helmet.

Open between 9 in the morning until 4 in the afternoon, the mountain offers all those little things that make Sweden such a wonderful place to visit. Cookies and warm cider on tables near the rental area and lift ticket booth, all for the taking. An open area where everyone leaves their lunch boxes and bags. An outdoor grill serving hotdogs on the backside of the mountain.

Romme Alpin - Mountain-Top Lodge

The mountain can be skied in one day. Every single run. But that’s not really the point. As I said, you don’t travel to Sweden for the skiing. And if you do, you don’t go to Romme Alpin. But the snow is white, cold, and deep. In the end, that’s all that’s really required for a good day of skiing and a great Swedish cultural experience.

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Posted in Day trips, Sweden by Marcus Cederstrom | 2 Comments »

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