Archive for the ‘Rail travel’ Category

Take the scenic Norwegian mountain train to Flam

Monday, March 16th, 2009neha

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Flam

If you’re planning a trip to Norway, be sure to save some time for the Flamsbana

The Flamsbana is a green carriage train that runs from the mountain station of Myrdal, down a stunning Valley, to the village of Flam. This 20km route carved along the valley is one of the steepest lines on normal gauge and a testament to Norwegian engineering. The line rolls along the valley through twenty manually crafted tunnels and at impossible angles. It also throws up some of the best Norwegian scenery on display. 

The route is marked with rushing rivers, falling ravines, flowering meadows and peaceful mountain farms. All along the valley you’ll spot enthusiastic trekkers and campers waving hello. 

The train makes only one stop on the way to Flam, at the Kjoss waterfall. As you get off the train, in the midst of an icy spray, a beautiful, haunting voice rises up across the valley. As you peer through the mist, you’ll see a peasant woman standing high on the rocks, singing; surreal, like everything else around the valley.

As the train heads to the floor of the valley, signs of village life pop up –a church, a market, sheep. 865 meters below Myrdal, the train slows down and pulls in at  Flam, a beautiful little spot on the Aurlandfjord.

The Road Less Travelled – Going North in Sweden

Monday, October 20th, 2008Anna Etmanska

A recent post on the Sweden Tourism blog (Sometimes the road less travelled is less travelled for a reason) made me nod my head and mumble “damn right!” – it said that “roughly 75% of Sweden’s existing tourism attractions are widely unknown abroad because nobody is putting them into salable tours and tourism packages.”

After my experiences at Arlanda airport in Stockholm last Friday, I think it’s more because it’s so bloody hard to get anywhere, and the airlines’ head honchos have the combined IQ of a stool sample. A very small stool sample, at that.

The objective was simple – to get from Stockholm to Umeå in the north sometimes during Friday. Without an expense account and within a reasonable budget. Two airlines fly from Stockholm-Arlanda to Umeå, and both had “planes less than half full,” as their ticket counter staff informed me. Yet they could only offer tickets at inflexible full- fare rates, both on-line and in person. And one of those was a so-called “budget” airline. SAS had tickets for more than 2000 SEK (200 euro) and Norwegian for a bit less – around 1400 SEK. That’s barely an hour before the departure. Needless to say, the planes went “less than half full,” because nobody in their right mind would pay those prices, and there was quite a large crowd of us gathered at the ticket counter.

Oddly enough, the same morning, one of the major Swedish dailies had a piece on the troubled airlines in Scandinavia. Gee, how come I’m not surprised?

OK, how about a train, you may ask? And that’s a very good question. There is one train a day that goes from Stockholm to Umeå, and it’s a night train. But pity the poor sucker that would look for this train on the Swedish Railways website. Even though the train is technically operated by Swedish Railways, the tickets are sold by a different train company – Connex. And the prices? They start at 800 SEK if you want to lie down, a bit less if you don’t mind sitting for 10 hours.

So, how about a bus? Yes, there is one. It’s called YBuss. It’s cheap, as slow as the train and a lot more convenient. The ticket from Stockholm to Umeå costs about 430 SEK. So what’s the catch? The company’s website is only in Swedish.

So yes, sometimes the road less traveled is less traveled for a reason. We’re not talking here about a tiny, little village in the Great White North. We are talking about the 6th largest town in Sweden, a town, which aspires to become Europe’s Capital of Culture in 2014. (Yeah right, I wanna see THAT happen!)

photo courtesy of Bussbilder.se

Save on extended travel in Germany with a BahnCard

Tuesday, October 7th, 2008Jacinta Lodge

If you’re planning on spending a significant amount of time in Germany and traveling around a bit, it may be worthwhile getting a rail card (BahnCard). This card is valid for a year and will give you a discount of either 25%, 50% or 100% off the ticket price.

I can wait by malias

I can wait by malias

The BahnCard 25 costs 55€ for second class (110€ for first class) and starts saving you money if you spend over 200€ a year on rail travel. The BahnCard 50 is 220€ or 440€ for second or first class, respectively, while the BahnCard 100 – at 3500€ for second class – I think we can ignore as not being particularly appropriate for the casual tourist.

These cards only give you the respective discounts on the ticket price. This means that you will still have to pay the extra few euros to reserve a seat, something I heartily recommend if you are traveling major routes (eg. Berlin – Frankfurt) at peak times. By which I mean Friday nights – forget about getting on one of those trains without a seat reservation on a Friday night. It’s squished standing room only, and that for 5 hours. Not fun. Berlin to Frankfurt will normally cost you around 100€ each way, so the BahnCard 50 will start paying itself off after only two return journeys of that length.

Buying the BahnCard is a bit complicated online as the shop portion of the Deutsche Bahn website is only in German. However the Reisezentrum (Travel Center) in the larger train stations will organise one for you. One word of warning: the BahnCard will be automatically renewed after one year if you do not cancel that in writing at least six weeks before the expiry date.

If your needs aren’t that extensive, there are other discount offers on the German rail network: Happy Weekend Tickets and Länder-tickets (~27€ for five people for one day in a single German state) offer cheap group fares, while the Saving fares give 25% or 50% discounts on return fares under specific conditions.

Train travel options in Spain

Thursday, September 25th, 2008Rachel Webb

The ease of train travel in Spain is constantly improving, the latest service launched between Barcelona and Madrid and AVE service between Madrid and Malaga has been really popular.

Roman amphitheatre and railway station, Tarragona

Roman amphitheatre and railway station, Tarragona

The AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) reached a top speed of 350 kph or 220 mph on these longer trips which would take around five hours by car. With trains being laid on especially for certain events more and more people, even locals are looking at them as a serious alternative to lengthy drives or flying.

Spanish business people have always used air links between the major cities, as a decent train service was none existent, and the huge distances needed to be covered were an impossibility by car within a working day. The plans for a better rail communication system all across Spain are exciting and of course a far more environmentally friendly option than a single-occupant car trip or flying.

One day we might see a high-speed train link from London, France and down to the south of Spain, but for now it’s getting better all the time.

You can book online for slightly cheaper fares.

Slow travel: the camping option

Tuesday, August 12th, 2008Jacinta Lodge

As modern tourists we tend to travel fast. We fly in, grab a hotel room (or hostel bed), see all the tourist sights, try a local meal or two and zip back home again. We stay within cities, we are surrounded by other tourists and we do it all in a hurry before our days or cash run out. We don’t soak in ambience, we dive bomb into it and think that the few drops clinging to our hair are equivalent to the pruney-skin permeation of a long and leisurely exposure.

Personally I’m an exponent of slow travel, a term I thought was particularly nifty until I googled it when writing this article and discovered that I didn’t coin the phrase. My version of slow travel is camping. Travelling leisurely through the back country, off the highways and into smaller towns. Getting to meet the locals in an environment (the communal lifestyle of a campsite) which encourages interactions (unlike the private sterility of a hotel room).

Camping lets you soak in the atmosphere

Camping lets you soak in the atmosphere

Of course camping isn’t always feasible. If you go with your own car, caravan or mobile home you are limited by how far you can drive in the allotted holiday travel time. Driving three days across Europe only to have four days there and a three day return journey is not anyone’s idea of fun. Some ways around that are to look at carrying your car on the train – something which saves time, stress and petrol. You can also carry the minimum camping gear with you on a flight and locally hire a car or just rely on public transport to get you around. Or you can rent the entire get up once you arrive.

But the prices do start paying out, especially if you are travelling for a longer period. The average European campsite costs 15€-20€ per night, including electricity, with each person costing around 2€ extra. Showers may or may not be an additional cost (usually 0.50 – 1€). This is similar to a bed in a dorm room of an inner city hostel for one person, but in a group becomes extremely cheap and is far more appropriate for travelling with a family. Finding campsites is easy – decent maps of the country will have many marked and usually your home automobile club will have lists of international campsites, ones which they have even checked out and rated.

You aren’t necessarily limited to remote campsites on the outskirts of town either. If you are travelling in a self-contained motor home there are many sites which allow for short stops, overnight stays and replenishing water/emptying waste. The E6 on the coast of northern Norway is dotted with them, in Germany they are called Stellplätze, in France Aires De Service, and many are free of charge.

The varying sizes of mobile homes

The varying sizes of mobile homes

I’m not really encouraging the use of the large mobile homes. These white ships are gas-guzzlers, can be dangerous on narrow roads (especially when driven by people unused to the size) and cannot be driven into European city centres because of their size. Smaller vans, such as VW camping buses, can be and tenting means you have a car available for local trips without having to pack up your campsite every time.

Of course camping doesn’t work for everyone, nor does it work for every situation. It requires a certain amount of preparation and investment in gear, the availability of a little more time and a roughing-it mentality. While northern France’s freezing autumn rains may send even myself into the shelter of a local chateau, as a budget summer travel option it is a relaxed, slow travel affair.

Sail Rail from London to Dublin for £54 return

Friday, July 25th, 2008Karen Bryan

You can buy a return Sail Rail ticket to Dublin for only £54 from UK cities such as London and Newcastle. Sail Rail is a partnership of British and Irish ferry and train operators. The ferry crossings used are Fishguard to Rosslare, Holyhead to Dublin, Stranraer to Belfast.


I did a search for a Sail Rail ticket from Edinburgh to Belfast on 27 July, in 2 days time and found a single ticket for £26.

I think that is a really good offer as it appears to be available even at peak times and without having to book months in advance. You also have to consider that you don’t have the hassle of getting to and from the airport, the train will take into the city centre. You can also take as as much luggage as you like.

Have you used Sail Rail?

Happy weekends on German trains – only 35 euro for 5 passengers

Tuesday, July 22nd, 2008Jacinta Lodge

Generally speaking, there is more than enough to keep a tourist busy in a major city. Sometimes though, it’s nice to get out of the big smoke and see the smaller towns and sites in another country.

This can be tough when you’ve just flown straight in, don’t have a car (nor want to shell out for the rental and petrol prices) and the trains seem to be just that bit too pricey. Which is why it’s great that the German train system (Deutsche Bahn) have the Happy Weekend Ticket (Schönes-Wochenende Ticket).

Berlin Hauptbahnhof by Matthias M

Berlin Hauptbahnhof by Matthias M

For 35€ up to five people can travel anywhere on the regional train network. The ticket is valid from midnight to 3am the following day, but only available for Saturday or Sunday hence the happiness of the weekend. It also covers the S-bahns within those cities that have them. You don’t have to reserve seats and you can use it as many times as you want anywhere in the country for the entire day.

There are a few important points though:

-This ticket can only be used on the regional trains, ones designated by an RB, IRE or RE. These are generally the red ones. Don’t get on an ICE (Inter City Express)! Those are prettier and faster, but the conductor is not going to let you get away with a happy weekend if you do that.

-If you want to be a bit more adventurous you can get to Poland on this ticket via a few routes: Grambow – (Grambow Grenze(Border)) – Szczecin Gl; Tantow – (Tantow Grenze) – Szczecin Gl; Forst Grenze – Zasieki; Frankfurt (Oder) Grenze – Slubice; Görlitz – (Zgorzelec Grenze) – Zgorzelec

-These are the slow trains. They stop a lot at very small towns, go in somewhat circuitous routes and can take a long time to get somewhere. Make sure your destination is achievable.

German Train by dayvidday

German Train by dayvidday

You can buy the ticket directly from the website, but the web-shop itself is, unfortunately, in German and there is a 3.50€ charge for postage. Otherwise it can be purchased at train stations, either from the travel center (DB ReiseZentrum), or from the DB ticket machines. You can also buy them on the trains, directly from the conductor, but you will be charged an extra 10% and you cannot purchase it on S-bahn trains.

The Happy Weekend is a great way to get out of the large cities and into the smaller towns. It is even a very inexpensive way of getting between major cities, but it can take twice as long as the fast trains. But for 7€ per person if travelling in a group, I don’t think you’ll find a cheaper way.

Train Discounts in Sweden

Monday, July 7th, 2008Anna Etmanska

While Sweden might be sparsely populated, it covers quite a large area, and the costs of domestic travel deter many visitors from exploring the interior of the country. True, travel in Sweden is not cheap, and can hardly be called “budget”. Yet for those willing to do some searching, affordable options do exist. And today, I’ll do the searching for you.

Trains are one of the most affordable ways of moving around the country. And SJ (Swedish Railways) are quick to point out it’s the most environmentally-friendly way of travel, too.

A few months ago, several English-language travel mags touted the new budget option of purchasing SJ tickets for bargain prices at an internet auction. If they had done more research than just reading the official press release, they would have noticed that in order to use the auction function the customer needs to understand Swedish.

Fortunately, SJ also offers several discount choices for those of us who only speak English.

  1. Family offer – an adult ticket holder can take 2 kids under the age of 16 and only pay a booking fee of 5 or 10SEK for the children. If you are traveling on a student ticket, then the same deal applies to 2 kids under the age of 6.
  2. Student tickets – SJ is very generous with their definition of a “student”, which can be anyone over 26 years old with a valid student card (ISIC for foreigners).
  3. Youth tickets – for anyone under the age of 26.
  4. Last minute tickets – can be purchased the earliest 24 hours before the train’s departure and are available for those under the age of 26, students with valid ID cards, and retired persons – ID required.
  5. Group discounts – for 10 or more people. This one proves perfect when my friends and relatives invade!

Train tickets can be purchased on the SJ website, and after some recent changes, foreign-issued credit cards are also accepted.

The SJ website also offers a slew of useful tidbits such as multi-language PDF brochures, travel planning tips, and other services.

Keep in mind that SJ is only one of many Swedish train companies, however, its extensive network in the southern part of the country makes it the most popular choice. And just so you know, all SJ trains offer secure wireless internet connection.

Please keep in mind, that just as with everything else in Sweden, a booking fee is applied to almost every purchase, and train tickets are no exception.

written by Anna Etmanska

Ravenglass, Lake District

Thursday, February 28th, 2008Karen Bryan

Ravenglass is the only coastal village in the Lake District National Park. I thought it was charming, situated at the confluence of three rivers the Esk, Irk and Mite. We walked across the railway bridge and down the coastal path. There’s a large free car park with public toilets next to the station. You can also reach Ravenglass on the circular Cumbrian railway from Carlisle, Penrith or Lancaster with a hop on and off day ticket costing £24 per adult and £12 for a child.

ravenglass1.jpg
Ravensglass from the northern estuary bank

The Ravenglass & Esk Railway runs on a tiny 15 inch wide track for the 7 miles to Dalegarth.  It’s a short walk from here to Eskdale Mill the oldest working water corn mill in the Lake District,  There are several stations along the way and a full line return ticket allow you to hop on and off throughout the day.

I arrived at the station just as the steam train was leaving the platform, so only managed to take photos of the back of the train.

ravensglassrailway.jpg
Ravenglass Station

Muncaster Castle with its garden, maze and owl centre lies just outside Ravensglass. You can walk the one mile on the Eskdale Trail through the Decoy Wood, this will take you past the Roman Bath House.

I had a look to see what accommodation is available in the area. The best value option is the Muncaster Country guest house, a converted school with 8 rooms. I found double rooms with shared bathroom from £36 and ensuite double rooms from £45 at the beginning of April 2008.

The Pennington Hotel is a luxury hotel in Ravenglass, where double rooms cost £120 a night.

Trakkies website for kids who love trains

Wednesday, February 13th, 2008Karen Bryan

I’ve spent quite a bit of time recently on the UK National Rail site doing research about finding the lowest train fares. I noticied a link to the Trakkies website for train lovings kids. The site has 2 areas, one for 5- 7 year olds and another for 8 – 12 year olds. Kids can play games, download activities for their next train journey, find out about railway history and do quizzes.

It reminds me of when our sons were young and bit rail fans. I remember hanging around in the cold at our local train station so they could do a bit of train spotting and wave at the train drivers and sitting in the car parked near level crossings.