In this guest post Kate Greenaway, author of Florence by Katerina, looks back fondly on her weekend in Cinque Terre in Italy.
“The trip included a well read person on the train, who read everything about the five towns. There was the wanderer that didn’t really care where we slept, ate or stopped for a break. Then the entertainer and talker, who enjoyed conversing with the locals and asked a lot of questions. There was the over-packer, the gazer, the dreamer, the explorer, the student, and the teacher. I feel that each of us switched around in these rolls throughout the 4-day weekend to Cinque Terre. It was March 2002, not quite spring, definitely not winter, but almost summer. We wore the proper backpacker attire of shorts, T-shirts and hiking shoes. Yes, we stuck out like sore thumbs. It was okay though. We were travelers, backpackers en route to a huge eye-opening event.
We arrived a late evening to the first town Riomaggiore. As we stepped off the train we grabbed our camera and snapped shots of a gorgeous sunset before us. I remember CJ making his way onto the ledge looking over and capturing the shot perfect for him. A night to remember. It was close to 7pm and we needed a place to crash for the evening. The only place we found was off the stone steps down to the sea called Hotel La Locanda Ca’ dei Duxi. We paid 15 euro each for a nice place with a warm bed and terrace. Remember this was 2002, the Euro was practically equal to the Dollar. Success! A great night stay, if only for one night.
Sunset at Riomaggiore
The next day we walked to Manarola starting very early in the morning. The most rewarding walk I have ever had. The vistas kept getting better and better. What was to come, I will never be able to explain the endurance I had to keep on. From Riomaggiore, Manarola we took Via dell’ Amore(Street of Love) which cost 3 Euro. Unfortunately we came at a time where most of the path was being rebuilt. And the only way to get to the other side was to scale the mountain. I didn’t want to die that day so the 4 of us opted to take the long route following many other backpackers. The only difference we towed our life in a ginormous backpack fit for a large grizzly bear. Two and one half hours to a place called Corniglia. The third town. Along the way, we seem to have exasperated ourselves. Sweating, wheezing, dizzy. The sun was hot like summer in Florida. Abruptly, Jon sat down on the path and said nothing. The rest of us joined him thinking what a great idea he had. No talking. Only looking out to the sea. Chiseling the view of this land in our minds forever. Breathing in the sea air and sucking down the last bit of water we had. The noon sun was bearing down on us so much we were definitely resembling the large grizzly bear. Starving, tired, breathing deep, crabby, we arrived in Corniglia. Catching each others glances upon arrival, we smiled like saying ‘hey we made it’. We walked around the town until we saw the first sign that read Rooms/Camere. An old woman answered and lead us to the top floor where there were adjoining rooms with a bathroom. Yes. The most gorgeous view EVER. Double yes. We enjoyed the evening looking out to the sea once again, in clean clothes and a friendly cat that seemed to have made a home on our terrace.
The next morning was a breeze from what we endured the day before. 1 hour or so it took to arrive in more tourist-friendly Vernazza. This town had a beach so we couldn’t wait to lay down, catch some rays and walk our feet through the sea. We planned on staying in Monterosso, so it was a quick stop. We were so comfortable there, we pondered if we should stay here instead of going to the even more tourist run town Monterosso. Instead I caught my first boat ride in Italy. The rest marched on through the woods between Vernazza and Monterosso. My friends were not confident that me taking a boat ride with a complete stranger was smart. I took a risk and was the guest of a fellow American traveler on his very small boat. Okay it was a kayak. Needless to say it was a success. My grizzley bear bag sitting on my lap, I could have easily tipped us over if I moved my lower body at all. Good thing I held my breath almost all the way there because jellyfish surrounded the tiny kayak. Like they were waiting for a chance to sting me.
Vernazza
Arriving in Monterosso by boat in 15 minutes flat was a godsend. The sea air brushing my hair out of the way and after walking, sitting was fantastic. It felt amazing. Dan(the boat captain) and I started to walk and explore the new town. Monterosso is split in two. One side is all brand new and shiny and the other side stood older buildings with it’s soul still resonating out. Strolling along into a few shops, grabbing a small panino to munch on while I waited for my friends to arrive from the trail. Surprised to see me alive, Jon was wide-eyed and hugged me. He told the story of their journey; 1 hour and 45 minutes. I told him my story;15 minutes. I smiled. He groaned.
Next mission, find accommodation. Meeting up with the rest of the crew on the warm sand, we decided someone needed to start asking where there is a place to stay. The ladies walked from shop to shop when a young man came up to us and asked. “Do you need a place to stay”. Yes we do, in fact. Do we look desperate? Handing us his card stating clearly: Corrado Valente I rent rooms and apartments. Well that settles it. He guided us to a very nice apartment that suited us for the night. It makes me wonder if it is this easy everywhere in Italy to find a place to stay. I think it depends on where you are, of course. However if ‘tourist’ is what you are exuding, someone is bound to approach you.
There is so much to experience in Cinque Terre. Many ways to travel to and from each quaint town. Hike, train, rent a boat. Each town has it’s own personality, vibration and culture. Experience the simple life full of olive groves on mountainsides and wild cats on your terrace.”
