Archive for the ‘Guest post’ Category

Guest post: Can you get a high quality London hotel for under £100?

Monday, June 29th, 2009Karen Bryan

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In this guest post Rajul Chande of London Hotels Insight answers the question “Is it possible to find a high quality hotel in London for under £100 a night?” with three emphatic yeses.

“It’s hard to find what I’d call “genuine value” in London hotels. This is because the city has year-round demand and a structural shortage of hotel rooms. Even in the recession, London hotels have suffered less of a dip than elsewhere. A recent survey by TRI Hospitality Consulting showed that London was the only major European city to show annual growth in occupancy in May.

Tower Bridge, London

Tower Bridge London

This tight market can often lead to poor quality at the cheaper end, with a few noteworthy exceptions like Travelodge with rooms from £19 on their Saver rate.

But the Holy Grail is finding a decent London hotel which offers good service and nice rooms which is still at a reasonable price. It’s what I rather clumsily call “medium price/high quality”. After all, you sometimes need a hotel for a special occasion or hassle-free business trip. You might also need a decent restaurant, a good breakfast or perhaps a gym (all probably beyond a budget hotel) but without breaking the bank.

Everyone has a different definition of reasonable pricing in this context. But I’m assuming realists want the above for around £100. I’m also assuming you want to be near central London.

So I began to scour the Tripadvisor hotel rankings to find hotels in its top 20 that do not cost several hundred a night. I used various search engines to see if it was possible at least “sometimes” if not “most of the time” to get a room under £100. And I came up with the following 3 medium price/high-quality gems for you:

1. The only reasonably-priced hotel in Tripadvisor’s top 5 for London is the Apex City of London Hotel near Tower Bridge, it’s sleek, modern and friendly. This good-value hotel and has just been reviewed on my blog. It is possible to find a room at the Apex city of London for around £100.

2. Base2stay in Earl’s Court actually does what it says on the tin…and more, offering a mix of boutique hotel and apartments at a very reasonable price They give you free wi-fi and even a mini-kitchen. The hotel ranks 13 out of 1152 hotels.

3. Ranked a respectable 14 out of 1152 hotels, you might also consider Luna & Simone Hotel near Victoria. It’s clean, family-run and offers great value.

The Apex City of London probably has the nicest rooms of the three options above, but you shouldn’t go too far wrong with any of them.

Occasionally, even highly-rated 3 or 4 star hotels have flash sales and special offers.”

Guest Post: Dublin – a great family destination

Sunday, June 28th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post Lindsay Sydenham illustrates why Dublin is a  great location for a family trip.

“One of the best family destinations in Europe is Dublin, Ireland. Anyone looking for family vacation ideas should strongly consider a trip to Dublin. The city of Dublin is rich in culture and offers a delightful experience for travelers at every age. There is something to do for everyone!

Temple Bar, Dublin

Temple Bar, Dublin by Australia photos

Temple Bar:
Temple Bar is the cultural hub of Dublin. This is where the hustle and bustle of the city occurs. There are many restaurants and activities to choose from in this area. Take the family and stroll through the area to get a good feel of what the locals love in Dublin.

Ghost Bus Tour:
Interested in getting spooked? Dublin is a haunted city. The Irish are known for being incredibly superstitious and they believe strongly in the influence of the afterlife on the world. Purchasing tickets and going on the Ghost Bus Tour will give you an insight to haunted Dublin. You will travel to the school and home where Bram Stoker, the author of Dracula, conjured up the story of a murderous vampire. You will visit a graveyard and learn about grave robbings in the medieval times as well as see the untouched sites where witches were burned at the cross. Taking the Ghost Bus Tour might be a little spooky for young children, but teenagers will certainly enjoy the ride.

Take a Day Tour:
There are a few tours to take during the day that will give a great overall impression of what Dublin is all about. One of the most recommended tours to take is the Wild Wicklow Tour. For a reasonable price, their full-day tours will take you on a short city tour, a gorgeous costal drive, a visit to Glenalough (an older Irish city), a view of mountain lakes and an opportunity to eat lunch in a traditional pub and shop in a nearby craft market. Taking a day tour is the perfect opportunity to discover the overall feel of Ireland.

Dublin Castle

Dublin Castle by infomatique

Visit a Castle:
Go back in time and visit an old, Irish castle. You can start with the Dublin Castle, which is located in the heart of Dublin. See the interior of the castle, but be sure to spend time in the beautiful gardens that resemble a maze. If you and your family enjoyed the visit to the castle, know that there are hundreds of other castles to visit in Ireland. It is possible to spend an entire trip to Ireland just visiting the beautiful, historical castles the country has to offer.

Visit a Pub:
A night out for the adults should consist of pub hopping. Dublin offers some of the most impressive pubs in the whole world. Try different brews that have been created all over Ireland. It will be especially fun if you are a connoisseur of beer!

Howth

Howth by infomatique

Take a Ride to Howth:
Howth, Ireland is a gorgeous costal city that really gives visitors a different feel of Ireland. Walk the Irish cliffs and view the blue water. Each fresh fish and chips and be sure to order the “catch of the day.” Explore the marina area where there are old fishing boats. The locals in this city are kind-hearted and love to help visitors find their way around.”

Guest Post: Bilbao – A city regenerated and on the budget airline map

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post author Paul Kilduff, interviewed last year on the Europe a la Carte Blog, tells us about his recent foray to Bilbao in Spain, explaining why he decided to construct a free photo guide to the city.

Flower Puppy, Bilbao

Puppy by Jeff Koons, Bilbao

Despite being Spain’s fourth largest city (after Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia), no one would have wanted to visit Bilbao just a decade ago. At that time it was a port city and an industrial hub where the only visitors were executives in suits attending unexciting trade fairs. But recently thanks to the local government, Bilbao has been transformed into a tourist destination by some state of the art buildings and features.

Playa Moyua, Bilbao

Plaza Moyua, the hub of Bilbao

Here’s how Bilbao was simply transformed – the city’s dirty port was moved 12 kms away to a new coastal location ;Norman Foster built a cool Metro system ; an eco friendly riverside tramway system was built ; a striking airport and the Zubi-Zuri footbridge were designed by Santiago Calatrava ; the tanker-like Euskalduna conference centre was voted the world’s best such centre, and Canadian Frank S Gehry designed the stunning Guggenheim Museo, or ‘El Goog’, which is very first building you see as you arrive into the city from the airport. At the same time the city authorities preserved the historic old town (El Casco Viejo), they pedestrianised the streets and they promoted art, culture and nightlife.

Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao

The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao

I have spent the last three years writing books about Ryanair, or Ruinair as I prefer to call them, but to reach Bilbao from the UK, you must fly on the more civilised easyJet from London Stansted. I researched Bilbao online before I went but all I found were long pages of dull text. I wanted to see Bilbao. A picture tells a thousand words. So here is my revolutionary free photo guide plus handy tips to Spain’s best kept secret. .

Guest Post – Berlin on a budget

Friday, June 12th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post Lindsay Sydenham gives Europe a la Carte readers advice for a budget conscious trip to Berlin.

“It can be difficult to travel to Europe on a modest budget. With the weakness of the Dollar against the Euro, some travelers are hesitant to take any trips in this economy. Berlin is a relatively inexpensive city to travel to – especially in comparison to Paris and London. The purpose of this review is to provide peace of mind to future travelers and to inform readers about the many free and low-cost opportunities that exist in Berlin.

Brandenburg Gate, Berlin

Brandenburg Gate

Be sure to eat a heavy, traditional, German meal during your stay in Berlin, but remember that the best and most authentic German eats are ones that are cheap. Eat your daily breakfast at bakeries. Every morning bakers arise early and make all sorts of breads, pastries and croissants for Berliners to purchase on their way to work. An authentic, fresh breakfast could cost you one Euro – total. For lunch or dinner, consider the Turkish döner. While this does not sound like a taste of Germany, it is actually one of the best ways to enjoy Berlin as a true Berliner. The döner is a cheap, Berliner favorite for a quick bite to eat. The price of döners range anywhere between one to three Euros a piece. Döners can be purchased at many different street vendor locations and consist of pita bread, shaved meat (chicken or pork), lettuce, garlic sauce, onions and other vegetables you want to add. It is cheap, delicious and you can eat it on the go!

Most of the greatest sights to see in Berlin happen to be free. No visit to Berlin would be complete without walking under the famous Brandenburg Gate. The gate stands today as a symbol of freedom to Berliners and is a constant reminder of a painful past of separation and war. Visit the gate and think about the time when the gate was a separation between East and West Berlin. If you get the opportunity, ask locals about their feelings regarding the gate and the history of Germany.

Just around the corner stands a thought-provoking monument that should be visited by any tourist visiting Berlin. The Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe consists of an entire street block filled with slabs of concrete – some two feet high and others 10 feet high. The purpose of the monument is to create a feeling of confusion and distortion, much like the feelings the Jews experienced as they were lead off to concentration camps all over Europe. It is perfectly acceptable to sit on one of the concrete slabs and to ponder the meaning of the monument. Many Berliners go to the monument to think, some go there to eat lunch and others go with flowers to remember their loved ones lost during the war. Many other monuments and museums about the Holocaust are scattered throughout the city and are free to individuals who want to see them.

Jewish memorial, Berlin

Monument to the murdered Jews of Europe

Another free option is to visit the impressive Potsdamer Platz. This area consists of high rise buildings, a movie theatre, trendy cafes and interesting architecture. The buildings in the area are built mainly with glass in order to symbolize the transparency of Germany and the German government. Potsdamer Platz was a bustling area during the 1930s with shops, theatre, restaurants and social activities. After the war and the separation of Germany, the area was destroyed and became a barren area known as “No Man’s Land.” The death of this bustling area was troubling for many Berliners as it had once symbolized the growth and prosperity of the city. Within the last 10 years, Potsdamer Platz has been reconstructed and has given the city of Berlin a new confidence of prosperity, wealth and happiness.

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin

Potsdamer Platz

After World War II, most of the beautiful buildings and churches in Berlin had been completely destroyed. One of the few buildings that were left standing majestically was Berlin Cathedral. This Baroque and even Neoclassical cathedral is free to visitors who want to admire both the outside and the inside of the historical building. Inside the cathedral, visitors will hear the music play from the pipe organ on the top deck. Some visitors find the peaceful nature of the church as a great place to write in their travel journals or ponder other matters. In front of the cathedral there is a giant lawn where many Berliners flock to during good weather. On warm days there are literally hundreds of people laying on the lawn and eating their lunches. Potsdamer Platz and Berlin Cathedral specifically, are places that locals love to spend their time on holidays and weekends. These are great opportunities to mingle with the locals and experience Berlin the way Berliners do.

Berliner Dom

Berlin Cathedral

Berliners are also incredibly dedicated to the arts, film and theatre. There are many opportunities to experience the arts in Berlin. See a show at one of the many opera and theatre houses in the city. You can also discover some of the city’s best museums in the Museum Island. There may be too many museums for you to see in one short visit. Pin point your interests to discover which museums are best for your visit. Are you interested in Greek artifacts? Would you like to see the Pergamon gate? Do you prefer Romanticism art such as pieces created by Caspar David Friedrich? All of these are options you can enjoy in one of Berlin’s many, impressive museums.

Unlike many other cities in Europe, Berlin is a city that can be visited on a moderate budget. The main costs that tend to arise come from food and accommodations. Other than that, many attractions and non-touristy opportunities are free to visitors or come at a low cost. Be sure that you mingle with the locals and ask them for their opinions about what you should enjoy during your stay in Berlin. Most Berliners speak excellent English and are more than willing to help you with any questions you might have.”

Guest Post – Kryžių Kalnas (Hill of Crosses) in Lithuania

Wednesday, June 10th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post Brooke Allen, author of the Rambling Brooke blog, takes us beyond the usual tourist attractions in Lithuania.

“A trip to Lithuania is sure to include a visit to Vilnius, Lithuania’s capital and largest city. During my first trip to this country, I remember exiting the plane after an exhausting trip, wandering down Gedimino prospektas (Gediminas Avenue) struggling to keep my eyes open, and drinking a Švyturys beer and eating kepta duona (fried bread) under Gediminas castle. Six years and five extended visits later, these things are all still great and an absolute must-do, but they are also easily found and researched on any travel or personal website. For this post, I’m going to take you somewhere that is slightly off the beaten path, yet still popular with locals and tourists alike.

Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

About 10 kilometers north of Šiauliai, the 4th largest city in Lithuania, there is a tree-lined road with a sign pointing to the Hill of Crosses. No one can directly pin point when the first cross was placed on this small hill, but it is thought to have started after an 1831 uprising. The hill took on special meaning during the era of Soviet occupation. Lithuanians continued to leave crosses on the hill to signify their religion and heritage. It became a spot of peaceful resistance to the Soviet regime. Soviets diligently removed or bulldozed the crosses, but new ones continued to replace them. After the fall of the Soviet Union, the Hill of Crosses continued to grow and was visited and blessed by Pope John Paul II in 1993.

I first visited the Hill of Crosses during my second trip to Lithuania. I returned for the first time in four years yesterday. During that time, the hill has sprouted more crosses and the facilities (parking, souvenir stands, etc.) have been modernized with funds from the European Union, but the focal point still remains the same. Upon entering the hill, the first thing you notice is, of course, crosses. Not only single crosses, but crosses adorning crosses. The smaller crosses hanging on the crosses are decorated with even smaller crosses. After three generations of crosses, the youngest and smallest are topped with rosaries. The inscriptions on the crosses range from permanent marker to ornate plaques professionally adhered to beautifully carved works of art. The reasons for the crosses vary from company donations to a child hoping that his daddy is okay with Jesus. There are pictures of young lovers, separated too soon, stapled to crosses, while others are adorned with messages of thanksgiving or a simple, “We were here.”

Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

The brochure I picked up at a souvenir stand says that the Hill is everyone’s, that is transcends boundaries, and it does. Inscriptions are written in many different languages, and among the crosses, you can find Stars of David. The largest Star of David is now adorned and decorated just like the crosses it stands between. The Hill of Crosses is much more than a religious symbol. It brings people together and is a sign of hope. No matter the language or the religion, it shows that others are also dealing with loss and wishing for a better future.

Beyond the symbology, the visual aspect of the hill is powerful. It is truly an ornate monument and sculpture created by the hands of thousands of visitors over more than a century. I tried to find the cross I placed on the hill four years ago for my lost loved ones, but time has weathered the permanent marker and crosses marking newer losses and celebrations have slowly crowded the walkways. It is there, though, amongst the masses, celebrating what was and looking forward to what will be.

If you ever get the chance to visit, do it. It is slightly inconvenient to Vilnius if you don’t have a car and don’t care for buses, but the hill is powerful and there are some great roadside restaurants along the way.”

Guest Interview – Anouk of slowmoves

Monday, June 8th, 2009Karen Bryan

Anouk, co-founder of Slowmoves speaks to Europe a la Carte about why she set up this hub for slow travel resources.

slowmoves logo

1 What is the aim of your blog?

Slowmoves is about enjoying the journey, as well as the destination. Moving away from budget flights and quick getaways to faraway places and moving towards overnight train journeys, cycle trips and home-stays. Why not start a holiday from when you leave your front door, rather than when you enter your hotel room? Slowmoves was started by Anouk and George, two friends living in London, UK. We love local perspectives and look for places with genuine qualities, be it a beach house on the Isle of Wight or a family-run farm in Italy. slowmoves is a hub for slow travel resources: our own adventures and ideas, tips for holidays, interesting news, articles and links. You could read about one of George’s overland adventures to San Sebastian or read about a useful website that links you to local guides on your holiday.

2 What prompted you to start your blog?

We feel that the travel industry ushers us to travel the same way, to the same places. We’ve become used to only appreciating where we’re going, not how we got there. At slowmoves we want to take our time, enjoy the journey and experience local culture. It’s about a more sustainable, local and simple way to travel which we feel is much more enjoyable.

3 What has been the hardest aspect of having your own blog?

Juggling having a full time job with trying to dedicate as much time as possible to running the blog.

4 What is the funniest thing that has happened to you running your blog?

That our blog is all about slowing down, taking your time to appreciate things, but that George and I both live in London and live quite hectic lives! It must be the backlash and deep-rooted desire to slow down the pace of our lives and enjoy the world around us.

5 Is there anything you would do differently with the benefit of hindsight?

Start contacting other relevant blogs and leaving comments in the blogosphere right from the start – this is a great way to reach people who are truly interested in slow travel.

My comments – I do agree about the issue of enjoying the journey as well as the destination but that can be hard to do if you’ve to hang around airports, sit in a traffic jam etc. I find that travelling off peak goes a long way toward making the journey more relaxing e.g. air traffic controllers usually go on strike in peak season. I remember driving around Buxton in Derbyshire one August Bank Holiday weekend with pedestrians spilling onto the pavement and being unable to find a parking space and vowing never to drive in England during a holiday weekend again.

Guest Post – Bern the forgotten capital of Switzerland

Monday, June 1st, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post Carol Schonafinger, director of Holidays to Europe, introduces us to the somewhat forgotten city of Bern, capital of Switzerland.

“Switzerland’s capital, Bern, is often overlooked on a European itinerary, but it is a city with plenty to offer the visitor. Located in the Swiss Mittelland (middle land) region, Bern is within easy reach of many of Switzerland’s more popular destinations but warrants at least of couple of days to discover this historic city which was added to UNESCO’s world heritage list in 1983.

Bern from Gurten

Bern from Gurten

Founded way back in 1191, the city was built to offer protection on three sides with the River Aare providing protection on the fourth. In 1405 most of the city was destroyed by fire. Rebuilding started almost immediately in sandstone and many of these buildings still remain. The clock tower, which still stands today, was the city’s first gate and is one of the most important landmarks in Bern. More than 800 years later, visitors can watch the clockwork figures perform every hour, and admire the intricate clock face which was added in 1530.

East of the clock tower, you find yourself in the Alt Stadt (old town) and wandering the Laubengange, consisting of nearly six kilometres of covered arcades. It is the longest covered shopping promenade in Europe and houses cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, boutiques, galleries and more. It’s easy to while away a few hours window shopping or enjoying a coffee whilst you decide which Swiss watch to buy! As you wander around the Laubengange, you will also come across a fountain or two. In fact, there are over 100 fountains in the old town erected over the centuries to commemorate significant historical events. They make a colourful addition to the cobblestone streets. One of the more bizarre fountains features an ogre enjoying a meal of wriggling children!

A leisurely ten minute walk towards the River Aare and over Nydeggbrucke (Nydegg bridge) takes you to the home of Bern’s symbol, the brown bear. The Barengraben, is home to a number of Pyrenean brown bears. Legend has it that the city’s founder killed a bear on the Aare peninsula whilst the city was being built, and the bear was adopted as the city’s symbol. The bear features on Bern’s Coat of Arms and, rightly, or wrongly, these days, serves as a tourist attraction. For years, the bears have been housed in a large concrete pit, but the new, larger bear park, extending right down to the shores of the Aare, is due to open in October 2009. The new, 6000m2 site, will feature a large grass area, two small forests, three caves and a pool parallel to the Aare which will enable the bears to enjoy the closest thing to a real bear’s life.

River Aare, Bern, Switzerland

The River Aare, Bern, Switzerland

It’s worth taking the time to stop and take in the views as you cross back over the Nydeggbrucke. The Aare winds its way in a U-shape around the city, and from the bridge you can really appreciate the city’s medieval history and architecture. Below you, the rushing blue-green waters of the Aare thunder by. Why not try rafting on the Aare? Guided dinghy tours let you discover the city from the water, and in summer, Aare Marzili Lido serves as a popular summer swimming and meeting place.

Back in the old town, head for the Berner Munster (cathedral) for more great views. Building started in 1421 and today the Munster is the largest sacred building in Switzerland. Climb the 100 metre tower to see the city from above, and take a look at the 12 metre-high stained glass windows. Just around the corner you can visit Einstein’s house where the physicist lived when he developed the theory of relativity. Whilst in the old town, don’t miss the thrice-weekly market. Stalls brimming with flowers, fresh fruit and vegetables and Swiss specialties abound. The first market took place in Bern during the Middle Ages, and today they remain as popular as ever.

Bern,  Switzerland

Bern, Switzerland

For those looking for some serious retail therapy, Bern has plenty to offer. Bahnhofplatz, a modern shopping centre inside Bern’s main railway station, was completed in time for the city’s hosting of the 2008 European Football Championships, at a cost of 100 million SFR. Just across the street, you’ll find the popular Loeb department store, and endless clothing and shoe shops, sports and book stores, and souvenir shops. The city centre also boasts a casino for those who have a little cash to spare.

Like most European cities, Bern offers an excellent public transport system, and being Swiss, it is clean, efficient and on time. A pleasant half day can be spent at Gurten, a large park set high on a hill overlooking the city. An easy tram ride from the centre of Bern, and then a ten minute funicular ride up the hillside, takes you to the popular park. Situated 864 metres above sea level, Gurten offers not only spectacular views over the city, a café and restaurant, but the park is also a favourite amongst families with an excellent adventure playground and miniature train rides for the children, and plenty of room to run around.

With its central location, Bern makes a great base for day trips. Luzern is only an hour and a half away, and the popular tourist town of Interlaken is the starting point for many magnificent trips into the alps, including the Jungfrau and Schilthorn. Just an hour from Bern, Interlaken is also the meeting point of two of Switzerland’s most spectacular lakes, Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. With water sports and lake cruises on offer, and quaint Swiss villages to explore, this is the perfect destination for a relaxing day trip.

Now that you have decided to spend a few days in Bern, where will you stay? Bern offers something for everyone, from camping grounds to hostels, apartments to hotels. Wherever you stay, you’ll be treated to a friendly, compact city, bursting with history but still boasting the necessities of modern day living.

Make sure you add the capital to your Swiss itinerary – you won’t be disappointed.”

Guest Post – My first holiday in Cyprus

Monday, May 25th, 2009Karen Bryan

Ross Fraser, who works for Thomas Cook, describes his first holiday in Cyprus in this guest post.

“I visited Cyprus for the first time last summer – taking advantage of a friend’s villa that wasn’t in use. Being a dedicated Majorca tourist this was a great opportunity to explore a new place that had always been one I wanted to tick off the ‘visited’ list.

I stayed in a small town called Anarita which is around 10km east of Paphos. At the time of visiting (summer 2008) there were no local buses that serviced the airport so the taxi’s almost run a cartel, therefore depending on where you are travelling onto could cost you a few quid. (I believe this is changing/has changed since my visit and a bus service is being launched). I was picked up so didn’t have to worry about this.

In all honesty I wasn’t hugely impressed with the town of Paphos, it is a mix of old buildings and unflattering new concrete apartments and shops with a big dollop of British tourists thrown in! If you are interested in history however there are some fantastic Roman ruins in Paphos that are well worth a visit. The main historical site entrance is near the harbor in Paphos and entry costs around 6euros, there is more than enough to see to easily fill an afternoon.

Paphos, Cyprus

Paphos Roman riuns by Verity Cridland

Being an olive oil fanatic I visited an olive farm, I cannot remember the exact location of the one I went to but there are a good number of farms across the island open to the public so there is likely to be one near you which you can visit. I found the experience fascinating – learning about how olive oil is made and then being able to taste some of it was wonderful!

When I was visiting it was very hot – unlike Majorca where the heat is more humid I found the temperature in Cyprus even hotter and because the villa I stayed in was made of concrete it locked in the heat at night, so I would make sure if you are going there that you have air conditioning.

If you have a car during your holiday in Cyprus a town that is work a visit is Limassol which has some good shops (in my option) it had a Pull and Bear, which is an mid priced fashion store that I love and one you don’t see across the whole of Europe.

Limassol, Cyprus

Limassol by Leonid Manchenkov

If you like food then you are spoilt for choice in Cyprus. I’m a vegetarian and I didn’t have too much trouble finding places to eat either. One thing that I was shocked about was the price of coffee, with an average coffee being around 2 – 3 Euros a cup, shockingly expensive, but the cheap high quality wine more than made up for it.

It is also very easy to visit Egypt from Paphos, there was a boat and plane that leaves from the town, if you have a couple of days free in your trip this is something that you can quite easily do.

In all I found Cyprus an interesting place, I didn’t visit enough of the island to comment on the whole country, you do need a bit of time on your hands and a hire car is almost essential in order to see some of the outstanding heritage the island offers.

If you are looking for a holiday to relax and unwind, enjoy good food in almost guaranteed sun then visit Cyprus.”

Guest Post – A weekend in Cinque Terre

Friday, March 20th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post Kate Greenaway, author of Florence by Katerina, looks back fondly on her weekend in Cinque Terre in Italy.

“The trip included a well read person on the train, who read everything about the five towns. There was the wanderer that didn’t really care where we slept, ate or stopped for a break. Then the entertainer and talker, who enjoyed conversing with the locals and asked a lot of questions. There was the over-packer, the gazer, the dreamer, the explorer, the student, and the teacher. I feel that each of us switched around in these rolls throughout the 4-day weekend to Cinque Terre. It was March 2002, not quite spring, definitely not winter, but almost summer. We wore the proper backpacker attire of shorts, T-shirts and hiking shoes. Yes, we stuck out like sore thumbs. It was okay though. We were travelers, backpackers en route to a huge eye-opening event.

We arrived a late evening to the first town Riomaggiore. As we stepped off the train we grabbed our camera and snapped shots of a gorgeous sunset before us. I remember CJ making his way onto the ledge looking over and capturing the shot perfect for him. A night to remember. It was close to 7pm and we needed a place to crash for the evening. The only place we found was off the stone steps down to the sea called Hotel La Locanda Ca’ dei Duxi. We paid 15 euro each for a nice place with a warm bed and terrace. Remember this was 2002, the Euro was practically equal to the Dollar. Success! A great night stay, if only for one night.

Riomaggiore

Sunset at Riomaggiore

The next day we walked to Manarola starting very early in the morning. The most rewarding walk I have ever had. The vistas kept getting better and better. What was to come, I will never be able to explain the endurance I had to keep on. From Riomaggiore, Manarola we took Via dell’ Amore(Street of Love) which cost 3 Euro. Unfortunately we came at a time where most of the path was being rebuilt. And the only way to get to the other side was to scale the mountain. I didn’t want to die that day so the 4 of us opted to take the long route following many other backpackers. The only difference we towed our life in a ginormous backpack fit for a large grizzly bear. Two and one half hours to a place called Corniglia. The third town. Along the way, we seem to have exasperated ourselves. Sweating, wheezing, dizzy. The sun was hot like summer in Florida. Abruptly, Jon sat down on the path and said nothing. The rest of us joined him thinking what a great idea he had. No talking. Only looking out to the sea. Chiseling the view of this land in our minds forever. Breathing in the sea air and sucking down the last bit of water we had. The noon sun was bearing down on us so much we were definitely resembling the large grizzly bear. Starving, tired, breathing deep, crabby, we arrived in Corniglia. Catching each others glances upon arrival, we smiled like saying ‘hey we made it’. We walked around the town until we saw the first sign that read Rooms/Camere. An old woman answered and lead us to the top floor where there were adjoining rooms with a bathroom. Yes. The most gorgeous view EVER. Double yes. We enjoyed the evening looking out to the sea once again, in clean clothes and a friendly cat that seemed to have made a home on our terrace.

The next morning was a breeze from what we endured the day before. 1 hour or so it took to arrive in more tourist-friendly Vernazza. This town had a beach so we couldn’t wait to lay down, catch some rays and walk our feet through the sea. We planned on staying in Monterosso, so it was a quick stop. We were so comfortable there, we pondered if we should stay here instead of going to the even more tourist run town Monterosso. Instead I caught my first boat ride in Italy. The rest marched on through the woods between Vernazza and Monterosso. My friends were not confident that me taking a boat ride with a complete stranger was smart. I took a risk and was the guest of a fellow American traveler on his very small boat. Okay it was a kayak. Needless to say it was a success. My grizzley bear bag sitting on my lap, I could have easily tipped us over if I moved my lower body at all. Good thing I held my breath almost all the way there because jellyfish surrounded the tiny kayak. Like they were waiting for a chance to sting me.

Vernazza

Vernazza

Arriving in Monterosso by boat in 15 minutes flat was a godsend. The sea air brushing my hair out of the way and after walking, sitting was fantastic. It felt amazing. Dan(the boat captain) and I started to walk and explore the new town. Monterosso is split in two. One side is all brand new and shiny and the other side stood older buildings with it’s soul still resonating out. Strolling along into a few shops, grabbing a small panino to munch on while I waited for my friends to arrive from the trail. Surprised to see me alive, Jon was wide-eyed and hugged me. He told the story of their journey; 1 hour and 45 minutes. I told him my story;15 minutes. I smiled. He groaned.

Next mission, find accommodation. Meeting up with the rest of the crew on the warm sand, we decided someone needed to start asking where there is a place to stay. The ladies walked from shop to shop when a young man came up to us and asked. “Do you need a place to stay”. Yes we do, in fact. Do we look desperate? Handing us his card stating clearly: Corrado Valente I rent rooms and apartments. Well that settles it. He guided us to a very nice apartment that suited us for the night. It makes me wonder if it is this easy everywhere in Italy to find a place to stay. I think it depends on where you are, of course. However if ‘tourist’ is what you are exuding, someone is bound to approach you.

There is so much to experience in Cinque Terre. Many ways to travel to and from each quaint town. Hike, train, rent a boat. Each town has it’s own personality, vibration and culture. Experience the simple life full of olive groves on mountainsides and wild cats on your terrace.”

Guest Post – Teguise: Lanzarote´s Historic Former Capital

Thursday, March 12th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post, Nick of the Lanzarote Guidebook tells us about the town of Teguise, formerly the capital of the island of Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands.

Whilst Lanzarote is best known as a modern, sunshine holiday destination this small Canary Island also boasts some wonderful historic attractions. Such as the former island capital of Teguise – which is a real treasure trove of colonial architecture.

Teguise

Teguise by ratatumba

Teguise (or La Villa as it´s known locally) was in fact the first settlement established by the Spanish conquistadores in the Canary Islands. Dating back to 1402. And was named after the last princess of the vanquished pre-Spanish Guanche inhabitants.

Today the town is best known as the location for Lanzarote´s weekly market. Which is one of the biggest events on the island – attracting thousands of tourists and locals alike to Teguise´s cobbled streets and pretty squares.

Teguise was originally selected as the capital of Lanzarote thanks to its elevated position in the centre of the island. Granting panoramic views down to the coastline – and providing an early warning for the islanders who lived in constant fear of pirate attacks throughout the 16th and 17th Centuries. Thanks to Lanzarote´s position as a trading post between the New World and the Old. As Spanish galleons laden with Inca silver would stop to restock and refuel before heading on to the Spanish mainland.

Teguise

Teguise by avatar-1
These riches stirred the interest of many a pirate (or privateer, depending on your viewpoint), including the likes of both Walter Raleigh and Francis Drake. Along with fortune seekers from other established maritime nations such as Holland, France and Portugal.

In 1618 the fears of the islanders proved well founded – as a huge armada of 5,000 Algerian buccaneers completely overran the town. Murdering and pillaging at will. A cataclysmic event that is marked to this day in a small street in Teguise called La Sangre (The Blood) – which stands as a memorial to the mayhem.

This bloodshed, combined with Lanzarote´s growing economic importance to the empire, forced the Spanish to bolster the security of the capital with the construction of the Castillo Santa Barbara. Which is located on Mount Gaunapay overlooking the town. And which today is home to the islands fascinating Emigration Museum. Which charts the migratory patterns of the many islanders forced to seek out new lives aboard as a result of economic privation and the volcanic eruptions of the 1730´s.

Local folklore has it that the Castillo is connected to the oldest remaining building in the town – The Palacio Marques (built in 1452) – by a secret tunnel. Which was designed to provide sanctuary for the villagers in the event of further pirate attacks.

Teguise is also home to a host of other historic buildings – such as the Convento San Domingo and the towns main church, Neustra Senora de Guadalupe – which dates back to the early 1500´s and which is located in the main square, the Plaza de la Constitucion. Opposite the Palacio de Spinola, an excellent house museum, which provides an insight into the lifestyle of an affluent 18th century merchant.