In this guest post, Rob Wallace describes his drive in a classic E type Jaguar through France from St Malo to the Logis du Paradis in the Charente region. The Logis du Paradis is owned by a couple Rob met at his local Classic Car Club in eastern England.
“Whether navigating the empty N and D roads of Normandy and Brittany, or exploring the vineyards of the Poitou Charentes, the French driving experience is always complet.
My wife Pam and I love France. We love the people, the culture, the food and perhaps most of all the fantastic roads. We believe the only real French experience is travelling by road. This time that experience was to have a unique twist.
We had been lent a classic E Type Jaguar and planned to drive down through the west of France to a destination of utopian tranquility, Le Logis du Paradis in the Charente. The philosophy there is really quite simple: relax, chill out and enjoy. We had been told of this unique style of chambres d’hote by friends, but first we looked forward to the actual journey down there – traffic-free roads – route nationales and route departmentales often tree lined and arrow straight for miles.
The Red E Type Jaguar driven by Rob
Our journey down to paradis started in St Malo where we left the ferry and found breakfast within the walled ramparts of the attractive old town. Croissants, freshly baked bread and coffee only ever really tasted like this south of the channel. Suitably replenished after the overnight crossing from Portsmouth, the N137 took us south around Rennes and down to Nantes, nestling north of the famous River Loire. Part of the thrill of open top motoring in a classic British sports car is the timeless feel of the experience on such fabulous roads. The ambience, the utter joie de vivre, is a pleasure that can actually be felt. Who can want for anything as the stunning French countryside flashes by under a warm summer sun?
St Malo
After an eleven euro lunch, somewhere in the vast and beautiful pays de la Loire we turned west to the Ile de Noirmoutier, a curious island connected occasionally by a tidal causeway to the French mainland. This passage du gois, otherwise known as the D948, has sandy beaches on either side. They are clearly a haven for both oyster pickers and seafood revellers alike; for dozens of them were stooped over, loading their buckets with goodies. The location has been used for many a photo shoot: the covers of Porche and Ferrari books often feature this exact spot.
Our first hotel is the Hostellerie Chateau de Sable Punta Lara, so surreal in its appearance that you have to stop a moment to take it all in. Located on the edge of a pine forest, it looks out across the Atlantic Ocean at La Gueriniere. (Route de la Noure – Ile de Noirmoutier 85680. Tel: 0033 (02) 51 39 11 58). Fifteen white Mediterranean style villas, literally sit on the beach, the crashing waves almost touching their balconies. The smell of the sea is an inspiration, an appetiser for dinner, in the capacious beamed restaurant. Seafood and grilled fish are, of course, the order of the day. But who can resist foie gras, toast and apricot chutney, accompanied by a glass of chilled dessert wine? The tropical fruit bouquet of Monbazillac infuses the palate with a sweet viscosity. Once discovered, never forgotten.
The next part of our journey took us further south to the Charente maritime town of Royan, where we boarded the car ferry to the Pointe de Grave at the mouth of the River Gironde. This is where you really do need your Michelin Guide, for satnav is definitely interdit in a classic British sportscar. Further south, the Gironde divides into the Garonne and the Dordogne. But I’ll come to that later.
Royan
We drive off the ferry thirty minutes later – time enough for a jambon baguette and iced tea on board – and join the N215, still progressing south. And the heart of our journey is really only just beginning.
As your navigator will probably explain, mine did on a number of different occasions France is an extraordinarily large country! And with a land mass over three times the size of England it has more or less the same population.
And so we’re well en route to our Paradis, heading due south on the N215 towards Les Vignobles de Bordeaux. The Bordeaux appellations are produced throughout this vast richly textured region, representing 55% of total production. Most vineyards are located between the Dordogne and Garrone rivers and to the north of Libourne. To the west we drive down through a mosaic patchwork of beautifully kept vineyards. Their names are synonymous with the great wine lists found anywhere in the world: Medoc, Saint Estephe, Pauillac, Saint Julien and Margaux. The chateaux of the great wines are simply stunning in appearance. During the 15th century, French society became less turbulent, allowing noblemen to design homes more for comfort and display than fortification. They built, possibly as a statement, extravagant chateaux with large windows and luxurious staterooms. Defensive features, such as moats, were often maintained, but served only as decoration. Their Palladian style of design incorporated conical spires and towers, ornamental finial and Dutch- style gables. The dark grey slate ridged rooves, above rich honey coloured stonework, gave these chateaux their distinctive solid look of permanence and unashamed prosperity.
The Vineyards at Chateau France Mayne, just outside Bordeaux
With 120,000 hectares of vines, Bordeaux has France’s largest area of vineyards and therefore many magnificent wines. The vast expanse, the diversity of soils and micro- climates enables the production of a very wide variety: red, rose, dry and sweet wines in the 57 appellations; (ie: the locations such as Medoc, Graves and Pomerol.)
Having savoured not only the names, but also the flavours and fragrances of Lafite Rothschild and Pauillac, we head south again around the banks of the Gironde to Bordeaux itself. The Maison du Vin was well worth a visit. A magnificent 18th century chateau shaped like a ship’s prow; both majestic and sedate in appearance.
Our final stop off, for lunch, was at Blaye. Here is another hotel and restaurant we must tell you about: La Citadelle (Place d’Armes 33390 Blaye. Tel: 0033(0) 5 57 42 17 10). The panoramic views from the restaurant really make the experience complete. Although this was an alcohol free lunch, driving somebody else’s E Type is an awesome experience, the food was delightful. A stroll around the town was called for.
Blaye has all the charm of another world and indeed, another time. This is an historic town whose ramparts look down onto the spectacular panoramic vista of the old town and Gironde. These ramparts were constructed according to Vauban’s plans in 1689 and within these solid stone- walls is a labyrinth of passageways and secret alleys steeped in history. One can almost hear the echoes of a bygone age, the acoustic rhythms of both celebration and conflict. Suitably replenished and refreshed, we prepared ourselves for the last leg of the journey en route to paradis.
Blaye from the Citadel
Another spectacular drive takes us North-East of Blaye on the D253, through Les Drouillards des Bois – leafy green woodland – through Montendre, then directly north to Jonzac. The avenues of trees play tricks on the eye, but this is not just shadows and light. The colours and tones; the shades of sunset, slowly turns afternoon into evening in a seamless transition of time. The road passes through the tiny villages of Chartuzac and Villexavier, to name but a few, and sadly, for today, our journey is drawing to a close.
We follow the D699 close to Archiac and Lachaise. Now is the time to pull over for a few moments, enjoy the scenery and telephone Madame Brimblecombe to advise her of our arrival time. This may be too early perhaps for a glass of chilled Pineau on the terrace at Le Logis du Paradis; but just about right for a freshly brewed pot of Earl Grey. We turn the ignition and fire up the V12 once more. The burble of the quadruple exhausts is reassuring and we haven’t once thought about the M25 or the London Underground!
Not just bienvenue, but welcome home. That’s the sensation you feel, even if it’s your first visit to this little spot of paradise in the heart of the Charente. Le Logis du Paradis (16300 Criteuil la Magdeleine. Tel: 0033 (0) 545 35 39 43) is a lovely old complex of buildings dating from 1712, including its former cognac distillery, built around a large, enclosed, classic Charentais courtyard. One can almost imagine the sound of horse’s hooves, for the houses original raison d’etre was a cavalry barracks for LOUIS X1V’s army. It is set in a charming, tiny hamlet on the banks of the river Ne in the midst of the vines of the Grand Cru Grande Champagne Cognac region; famous for the very finest Cognacs and Pineaux. The buildings are surrounded by mellow stone walls and mature hornbeam and lime trees. The scene is peaceful and tranquil, awash with sounds of subtle birdsong.
Sally and Nicholas Brimblecombe bought this historic property and have sympathetically renovated and refurbished some of the former cognac chais and 18th century wing, which was once the home of the estate Regisseur. Sally has furnished the interiors with elegant linen and family antiques, mixing influences from her colonial upbringing with classic English and French styles. It is a charming blend of cultures and it works perfectly. The bedrooms are spacious and overlook the south-facing courtyard.
One of the bedrooms at Le Logis du Paradis
Now is the right time for that well deserved glass of chilled Pineau on the terrace. We join our hosts for a delicious dinner in a beautifully appointed dining room and sample a selection of wines from all over the South-West of France. The Madiran reds are not only extremely drinkable, but also contain many health- giving properties to encourage a wine novice. In fact, to ignore such evidence might even be considered foolish! For Madiran is genuine heart protecting wine and this is the real French paradox. The Tannat grape variety – which contains cardiac friendly polyphenols – actually increases longevity in males. Such scientific data – far from anecdotal – can be both savoured and appreciated by a novice such as me.
After a few days rest and recouperation, we decided to get back on the road and discover a bit more of South West France. And as I hope we have already expressed, the road is the only way. Nick very kindly prepared us a travel route into deeper France, with more suggestions of appropriate hostelleries and restaurants.”
