Archive for the ‘Family holidays’ Category

Visit Wales travel writing competition

Thursday, April 30th, 2009Heather Cowper

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If you’ve spent any time in Wales and you’ve a story to tell, then the Visit Wales Tourism website would like to hear from you. The website is looking for articles to feature on their blog until the Wales in Words competition closes in mid August and the winner will be selected in September to receive 3 nights stay including dinner in Holm House, one of Cardiff’s finest boutique hotels. The article can be one that’s already featured on your blog or something completely new.

Last summer we visited the beautiful Gower peninsula in South Wales for a camping weekend in which the sunshine was mixed with showers. Here’s the article I wrote for my own blog, Heather on her travels, which I submitted for the Wales in Words competition.

Camping near Rhossili, South Wales

“After the wet weekend camping in Cornwall last August, when our tent practically blew away and we had to decamp to a friend’s holiday cottage, I’d vowed my camping days were over. Nevertheless, when my sister in law suggested a camping weekend together in South Wales, on the beautiful Gower peninsula, I took the optimistic view. In my imagination I was already basking in the sunshine with a view across the fields to the sea, nibbling on strawberries with a bottle of white wine chilling in the cool box.

The realist in me remembered to pack the cosiest sleeping bags, fleeces, wellies and waterproofs although my husband managed to leave my down pillow behind. We set off from Bristol in sunshine but by the time we passed Swansea 2 hrs later the rain was pitter pattering on the car windscreen and on arrival at the campsite we had to rush to put the tent up before the rain really set in.

Cows near Pitton, Gower peninsula

The Saturday dawned a little brighter and after the morning ritual of shower, mug of tea and bacon and egg rolls with lashings of ketchup, I set off across the fields with by husband to search out the nearest beach. We followed the footpath signs, climbed several stiles, said good morning to a herd of grey and white cows and scrambled down to a rocky cove, which had once been an area for stone quarrying. I pictured smugglers landing here in secret but it was not really suitable for the sunbathing and surfing we had in mind.

Instead we drove 5 minutes up the road to Rhossili, owned by the National Trust, with a wide sweep of sand stretching into the distance in one direction and the rocky peninsula of Worm’s head in the other. After a steep climb down the path, laden with all our beach gear, we settled ourselves down for a few hours of relaxation, playing rounders and body boarding for those with wetsuits. Luckily the sun shone but the wind was deceptively cooling and later I discovered a few red patches of sunburn. The beach was so big that it never felt crowded and we found out later that many people are put off by the long walk down to the beach – all the more room for us, I thought.

Rhossili beach, Gower peninsula

By early afternoon we were feeling a little hungry so we settled ourselves on the terrace of The Bay cafe, with a great view over the beach, and ordered some big bowls of chips, baked potatoes and paninis. It was all very pleasant, so we returned for dinner there the next evening – unlike Cornwall there didn’t seem to be so many stylish places around to eat, but this was a cut above the rest. Otherwise we relied on the portable gas barbie to cook up bacon for breakfast and steaks and sausages for supper – all typical camping food.

Port Eynon Beach, Gower peninsula

The next day we decided to give Port Eynon beach a try, 10 minutes in the other direction, as I was keen to check out the Youth Hostel there in an old lifeboat station, thinking of possible alternatives to camping for a weekend break. The village was surrounded by several caravan parks and the beach had many rock pools which were exposed at low tide. The concensus was that it was not as nice as Rhossili, but we spent a couple of hours there sheltered in front of the sand dunes. I followed to path up on to the cliffs, through the yellow gorse to take in the stunning views over to the next bay.

On the way back, we decided to check out another nearby beach at Mewslade which had been recommended. When we parked in the nearby field it didn’t seem very promising, but we walked down a small valley with a nature reserve, scrambled over the rocks and arrived at a fabulous beach with wide sandy stretches at low tide, rockpools and steep cliffs around. This could have been a happy place to spend an afternoon, but already the rain was setting in, so we decided to return to the campsite.

Flowers in the hedgerows near Pitton, Gower peninsula

Although we were due to return to Bristol the next morning, we decided that we’d pack up before dark and drive back to Bristol that evening, drawn on by the promise of a warm house and our own comfortable beds, rather than a lilo and sleeping bag. Camping in Wales and Cornwall is popular for families on a budget, but you have to be prepared for the changeable English summer and pray that you’ll enjoy some sunshine in between the showers.

Walking near Pitton, Gower peninsula

If you fancy a camping break yourself, we stayed at Pitton Cross Campsite near Rhossili. The other recommended campsite which was sadly full when we tried to book is the one at Three Cliffs Bay, regularly picked as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.”

See all the photos of the camping weekend on Flickr

If you’ve got a story about Wales to tell, why not enter the Wales in Words competition.

Visit the fishing village of Padstow in Cornwall

Thursday, February 12th, 2009Heather Cowper

I just came back from a weekend away in Cornwall, the south-westerly county of England which is known for it’s rocky coastline, great beaches and mild climate. Padstow is a charming fishing port to visit on the North Cornish coast, although it’s packed out in the summer season so I’d recommend it more for a spring or autumn break.

Fishing boats in Padstow harbour

Although fishing boats still go out from the busy harbour, these days people come as much for the smart restaurants, art galleries and gift shops, as the picturesque view of the estuary. Much of it’s down to the impact of Rick Stein, the celebrity Cornish TV chef with a number of culinary enterprises that dominate the foodie scene in Padstow. His flagship Seafood restaurant is a landmark of Padstow, but you can also stay in his hotel, have coffee in his café, buy fudge in the deli, eat his fish and chips on the quayside and learn to cook at his cookery school.

Harbour shop at Padstow

There’s the haunted Elizabethan manor house of Prideaux Place set above the town, or you can hire a bike from the car park and follow the Camel Trail along a disused railway line beside the beautiful Camel Estuary, as far as Wadebridge and beyond. On our visit, we decided to take the ferry from the harbour that plies back and forth across the estuary to the holiday village of Rock.

We landed on the beach and walked towards the estuary mouth, clambering through the sand dunes in search of the tiny church of St Enodoc that serves the parish of St Minver. The chapel dates back to the 12th century but over the centuries was virtually buried in the dunes that surrounded it, until the 19th century when it was finally unearthed and the church restored.

St Enodoc's church

Today you can see the cut-down medieval rood screen, the mellow wooden pews and the memorials to those who died at sea. The former poet Laureate John Betjeman is buried here, and I could see why anyone might choose it as their final resting place, with a view through the dunes to the sea beyond.

All photos by Heather on her travels

Cycling in the Turia Gardens in Valencia

Thursday, December 25th, 2008Heather Cowper

Already my thoughts are turning to the promise of spring sunshine and where better than Spain’s third largest city of Valencia. I visited Valencia with my family last April and when the weather was grey in England we enjoyed a sunny cycle ride in the Turia Gardens.

Most cities have a river running through them, crossed with bridges at several points. Now imagine that the river has been diverted and replaced by a ribbon of green, with parks and playing fields and you get the picture of the Turia Gardens. You can hire bikes in the old quarter of town nearby, which we wheeled past the Cathedral and through the Plaza de la Virgin. We joined the gardens by the Torres de Serranos, a stone tower which you can climb for a panoramic view of the city.

A football game in the Turia Gardens

A football game in the Turia Gardens

In this area are many sports pitches and playing fields and we watched a team of Amazonian female football players for a while. A little further, under the bridge was an exhibition area where a wine festival was in full swing, but we resisted the temptation and continued along the boulevard, past the field where the firework displays had taken place during the pyrotechnical Fallas festival in March. The park is a favourite for city wallkers and joggers and families out for a stroll at the weekend.

Fountains in the Turia Gardens

Fountains in the Turia Gardens

As we continued, under the bridges, with the scent of orange blossom in the air, we reached the area around the Palau de la Musica, where there’s a lake with fountains and many shady trees around. This as a pleasant place to stop and rest a while, watching the rollerbladers and skateboarders trying out their tricks. Nearby you can hire bicycle carriages which are fun for families with younger children. There’s a nearby childrens’ playground on the theme of Gulliver’s Travels, with a reclining Gulliver for the children to scramble over.

City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia

City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia

We cycled on and soon reached the City of Arts and Sciences, an area of futuristic modern buildings surrounded by shallow blue pools of water. They are the design of local architect Santiago Calatrava who has gained an international reputation for designing striking public buildings in the US and Europe. The complex includes a concert hall, science centre, planetarium and aquarium – they are quite expensive to go in, but the complex and surrounding gardens are a sight in themselves if you’re on a budget. You should try the traditional sweet milky drink of Horchata, made from tiger nuts, from one of the vendors around the complex.

Soon after, the Turia gardens end, but if you have a good map, you can cycle along the roads to reach the port area and the beach, for a relaxing few hours and maybe a Paella at one of the boardwalk restaurants.

Hire bikes from Orange bikes or Do you bike in the old town area of Valencia

Photos by Heather on her Travels on Flickr

Cheap accomodation on European campsites

Thursday, November 27th, 2008Heather Cowper

Have you ever looked longingly at a cheap flight to a European destination, only to realise that the cost of a villa or hotel would put that family holiday outside your budget?

Well here’s an alternative which will give you a modest roof over your head with full access to the beach, pool and sporting facilities to keep your family happy. And if you choose your location carefully you can have access to all the interesting sights that a city can offer.

You’ll probably have heard of operators like Eurocamp and Canvas holidays who offer a tent or mobile home already set up for you in major campsites. What is less widely known is that many campsites have their own apartments, wooden chalets or mobile homes that you can rent directly for less money. It’s a formula that I’ve operated successfully over the past few years when my children were younger.

These are my tips for arranging this sort of holiday yourself;

1. Check out which low cost carriers fly from your local airport and keep an eye out for when they release their summer flights to bag the early bargains. (As I write Easyjet and Ryanair have just released their summer flights)
2. Narrow down to a few areas or cities you would like to visit.
3. Check out campsites located close to your destination airport, preferrably those that can be reached by public transport or a taxi ride. The website I use for this is Alan Rogers which has comprehensive information on the best European campsites and will tell you which have accomodation to rent.
4. Carry out an internet search to find the website and contact details of any campsites that look promising and check out what accomodation they have to offer.
5. Contact your chosen campsite directly to book accomodation. You will get a better response if you e-mail them in their own language – use an internet translator if necessary.

One year we went to Barcelona and stayed in a  wooden chalet by the beach, which was only a half hour bus ride into the city. We alternated one day relaxing on the beach with another wandering Las Ramblas and taking the cable car up to Montjuic.

Then there was the time when we stayed in a mobile home in a campsite on the mainland near Venice, taking the bus and ferry for daytrips into Venice. We managed to see many of the major sites while the pool and beach were at hand for the non-sightseeing days.

I have to say that given the choice, I’d rather stay in the comfort of an apartment or hotel. But for a family on a tight budget, a holiday on a campsite in the sun is a lot more fun than a wet week in Cornwall.

Why go to Albania?

Thursday, November 20th, 2008Heather Cowper

Last week, at the World Travel Market in London, I found myself wandering through the European stands and played a little game with myself. I decided to visit the stand of the country I felt least likely to visit next year and see if they could change my mind.

Albania was top of the list, as I had a picture of a country still recovering from its communist years, with a bleak capital of Tirana blighted by concrete architecture. I knew from my sister who lives in neighbouring Greece that there were many Albanian economic migrants who had moved to Greece in search of a better standard of living, ending up in low paid jobs.

Beach near Vlora by KC

Beach near Vlora by KC

Putting these preconceptions aside, I had a chat with the Albania representative and came away with a fistful of brochures, maps, DVDs and cookery books. He told me that the country was investing heavily in infrastructure and tourism; last year the focus had been on the south of the country, this year it was on the north. All the material was branded with the slogan – Albania, a New Mediterranean love. The country clearly has ambitions to become a mainstream holiday destination like Spain or Italy.

So why should you go to Albania? Here are the highlights.

Beaches and coastline
Albania has 450km of coastline, with calm and sheltered waters for swimming. On the northern Adriatic coast centred around the large port of Durres, the beaches are sandy and shallow, making them ideal for families although they are crowded in high season. The unspoilt southern Ionian coastline, south of Vlora is more rocky, with the mountains coming down to the sea, and watersports and diving on offer. Further south, ferries from the Greek island of Corfu run to the seaside town of Saranda, giving access to the most southern stretch of coastline.

The city of Berat by Mage

The city of Berat by Mage

Culture and Heritage
Through the centuries, Albania has been a melting pot of many cultures, with the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans and Venetians all leaving traces of their past behind. To mention a few of the sites worth visiting; Berat is a picturesque UNESCO world heritage site, where the old white ottoman houses cling to the side of the hill, earning it the name Town of a thousand windows; The museum town of Gjirokstra, known as the City of Stone has the largest castle in the country where the National Folk Festival (held only every 4-5 years) will be taking place in 2009; At Kruja, a medieval town with a mountainside location, the old bazaar leads you up to the castle of national hero Skanderbeg, who in the 15th century led the struggle against the Ottoman empire.

The Great Outdoors
Lovers of nature and outdoor adventure sports should find plenty to keep them busy in Albania. The northern town of Thethi, set in the Albanian Alps, is a centre for outdoor activities such as treking, mountain biking and winter skiing, but if white water rafting is your thing you can try the Osumi River Gorge further south. If you like birds and wildlife, head for the wetlands of the Velipoje National Park on the northern coast. Llogera near the southern coast is a centre in the Balkans for air sports such as paragliding and on the eastern border with Macedonia you can relax beside the crystal waters of Lake Ohrid, the deepest lake in the Balkans.

Painted buildings in Tirana by Davduf

Painted buildings in Tirana by Davduf

Tirana
One of the first thing artist and mayor Edi Rama did, when he was elected, was invite the citizens of Tirana to get out the paintpots and brighten up the drab communist architecture. Now you can see apartment buildings in rainbow shades all over the city. Sheshi Skënderbej is the heart of the city, with a statue of Albanian hero, Skanderbeg. If bars and restaurants are your scene, the centre for nightlife is the neighbourhood of Blloku, once the exclusive preserve of dictator Enver Hoxha and his communist officials, now opened up for everyone to join the party.

So, is Albania likely to be the next big Mediterranean destination? I’ll let you decide, but I’m pretty sure that Easyjet or Ryanair should be planning to start a route there. In the meantime British Airways flies from London Gatwick to Tirana.

Thanks to kc, mage and davduf for their photos on Flickr

Slow travel: the camping option

Tuesday, August 12th, 2008Jacinta Lodge

As modern tourists we tend to travel fast. We fly in, grab a hotel room (or hostel bed), see all the tourist sights, try a local meal or two and zip back home again. We stay within cities, we are surrounded by other tourists and we do it all in a hurry before our days or cash run out. We don’t soak in ambience, we dive bomb into it and think that the few drops clinging to our hair are equivalent to the pruney-skin permeation of a long and leisurely exposure.

Personally I’m an exponent of slow travel, a term I thought was particularly nifty until I googled it when writing this article and discovered that I didn’t coin the phrase. My version of slow travel is camping. Travelling leisurely through the back country, off the highways and into smaller towns. Getting to meet the locals in an environment (the communal lifestyle of a campsite) which encourages interactions (unlike the private sterility of a hotel room).

Camping lets you soak in the atmosphere

Camping lets you soak in the atmosphere

Of course camping isn’t always feasible. If you go with your own car, caravan or mobile home you are limited by how far you can drive in the allotted holiday travel time. Driving three days across Europe only to have four days there and a three day return journey is not anyone’s idea of fun. Some ways around that are to look at carrying your car on the train – something which saves time, stress and petrol. You can also carry the minimum camping gear with you on a flight and locally hire a car or just rely on public transport to get you around. Or you can rent the entire get up once you arrive.

But the prices do start paying out, especially if you are travelling for a longer period. The average European campsite costs 15€-20€ per night, including electricity, with each person costing around 2€ extra. Showers may or may not be an additional cost (usually 0.50 – 1€). This is similar to a bed in a dorm room of an inner city hostel for one person, but in a group becomes extremely cheap and is far more appropriate for travelling with a family. Finding campsites is easy – decent maps of the country will have many marked and usually your home automobile club will have lists of international campsites, ones which they have even checked out and rated.

You aren’t necessarily limited to remote campsites on the outskirts of town either. If you are travelling in a self-contained motor home there are many sites which allow for short stops, overnight stays and replenishing water/emptying waste. The E6 on the coast of northern Norway is dotted with them, in Germany they are called Stellplätze, in France Aires De Service, and many are free of charge.

The varying sizes of mobile homes

The varying sizes of mobile homes

I’m not really encouraging the use of the large mobile homes. These white ships are gas-guzzlers, can be dangerous on narrow roads (especially when driven by people unused to the size) and cannot be driven into European city centres because of their size. Smaller vans, such as VW camping buses, can be and tenting means you have a car available for local trips without having to pack up your campsite every time.

Of course camping doesn’t work for everyone, nor does it work for every situation. It requires a certain amount of preparation and investment in gear, the availability of a little more time and a roughing-it mentality. While northern France’s freezing autumn rains may send even myself into the shelter of a local chateau, as a budget summer travel option it is a relaxed, slow travel affair.

Newcastle 3 night full board family breaks for £249

Tuesday, August 5th, 2008Karen Bryan

HotelShop are offering 3 night family breaks at the Quality Hotel in Newcastle upon Tyne for only £249 per family until 30 September 2008. This rate includes breakfast, dinner and lunch for 2 adults and 2 kids (aged under 14)., which is great value at £83 per night for full board for a family. This rate was available for any three day period over the next few weeks when I checked on the Hotelshop site.

I think that Newcastle is a great location for a family break. I spent a few days there with our sons when they were young. There’s lots to do and see such as the Seven Stories the National Centre of Children Books and The Centre for Life. You can buy a Metro off peak day travel ticket for £3.70 per adult and £1 per child (aged under 16) or for £3.70 for the whole family on a Sunday.

Sleep in straw to see Switzerland on the cheap

Tuesday, July 29th, 2008Jacinta Lodge

Awe-inspiring mountains, bankers, and top ski resorts are the common images the country Switzerland evokes, none of which are really associated with budget travel. So let’s jump to that other primary preconception…

Picture this:

A panorama of Alpine pastureland, lush green and dotted with edelweiss. Zooming in we see a herd of cows gently grazing, bells around their neck ringing with each step. The sound of song reaches our ears as a fair headed maiden comes up the stony path, yodelling happily in the morning air. In a nearby barn, the faintest stirrings tell us that our intrepid traveller is just waking up….

Hmmmm. Maybe a bit too heavy on the lyrical imagery?

However, the last part is true. If you’ve shied away from Switzerland and it’s prices before, here is the chance to see it without hurting your wallet. Just sleep in straw!

Swiss Cows by Olly Boyo

Swiss Cows by Olly Boyo

Around 200 farms across the country offer travellers a bed in their haylofts for under 20€ a night and give you the chance to see those high-lying meadows. The family will put on food if you request (for an extra small price) and even take care of your horse. If, you know, that’s your preferred method of transportation these days.

Many of the farms have additional activities, including donkey rides, climbing adventures and the chance to experience local specialties. Group bookings are possible and finding a farm in the Canton of your choice is easy via the (occasionally cryptic) English website. Just in case you are allergic to hay, many farms also offer normal mattresses in dorm rooms.

If you want to do this you will need a sleeping bag and a willingness to rough it a bit. At that price, and the chance to experience the countryside it’s well worth it. Maybe you can even convince someone to teach you how to yodel.

The Barn by Tambako the Jaguar

The Barn by Tambako the Jaguar

Scandic Hotels Family Discounts

Monday, July 28th, 2008Anna Etmanska

The Scandic Hotels website does not make it easy for you to find ALL the deals and discounts that this chain currently has on offer.

The English language “current offers” list is rather pitiful. So where are the discounts? On the Swedish language version of the website!

That is not a very nice way of treating potential foreign customers, wouldn’t you say?

For example, the English site lists only five “family” offers, yet there are 24 included on the Swedish page. So what’s a non-Swedish speaker to do?

I’ll let you in on an open secret when it comes to Scandic. In reality, there are even more deals than listed on the webpage in either language. Especially when it comes to Scandic’s family offer.

Hotels in Scandinavia are not cheap. Yes, you can always slug your way through a collection of hostels, or three-star establishments with minimal amenities (forget about complimentary bathroom supplies and you better bring your own facial tissue, too) but that’s not a very fun way of spending your vacation. Especially when you’re traveling with little ones in tow.

That’s where Scandic’s family deals come in handy. What’s a family deal? A room for two adults and two (or possibly three) kids, breakfast (sometimes also dinner) buffet, and either free or discounted tickets to local kiddie attractions. Prices vary depending on the location and the type of nearby attractions, but are always nicely discounted when compared to a normal single or double room, and start at about 100 euro per night per family.

Even if you’re not sure if the hotel you selected has such an offer, it’s worth calling to the front desk and asking directly. I just phoned 3 different Scandics, which according to the website, had no available discounts, yet the family deal was offered when I asked for it.

Scandic Hotel in Skellefteå
photo by Paul in Skellefteå

Free kids offer in Lappland this Summer – free stay, food and activities for under 16s

Monday, July 21st, 2008Anna Etmanska

Kids up to the age of 15 get to experience the Swedish Lappland for free. A new deal from the Kiruna Tourist Office for this summer offers a special option for families with children. And because this is Sweden, the word “family” is very loosely defined as “children accompanied by an adult guardian”.

So what’s in this deal?
For starters, room and board for kids under 15 is free. And the following attractions offer free activities for children:

Plus, both tourist offices in Kiruna and Narvik (yes, Narvik’s in Norway, and I’d say, anything in Norway they offer for free is a good thing, considering local prices) have special summer activities for kids, too. In Kiruna that includes the Esrange Space Center, where Richard Branson plans to launch his Virgin Galactic, and the LKAB Iron Mine. (I love the mine, by the way! Been there several times.)

Just look for the “Barn Fri Entre” (or its English equivalent) icon on participating websites, or contact the Kiruna Tourist Office for help. They haven’t done a great job of promoting this offer and are somewhat disappointed with the response so far. So if Sweden is in your travel plans this summer, take the kids and go North! It’s well worth it! Incidentally, Lappland is also my favorite part of Scandinavia. Though midnight sun season is already over (it ended in Kiruna on July 18th), the nights are still white and the weather very agreeable. I’m heading there myself in two weeks!

The deal is valid until the end of August, and SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) even offer free flights to Kiruna for kids under 15 from any Swedish getaway.


Torne River in the village of Lovikka (yes, that’s the village where Lovikka mittens come from).
Photo by Anna Etmanska

PS. In Swedish “Lappland” is spelled with two “p”, so in order to make your google searches easier, I kept the Swedish spelling here.