Europe A La Carte Blog

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In recent years we’ve gotten used to the idea that former Soviet countries have taken off economically, but it’s hard to shake the stereotypical imagery of grey, dull concrete and cold, depressed societies. Then you wander into Druskininkai and you have to rethink those preconceptions.

Druskininkai is a small town in southern Lithuania, only eight kilometres from the Belarusian border. Its great claim to fame is as a spa resort, popular with Czar Nicholas I in the 1830’s and keeping the tradition going through to WWII.

The town is surrounded by forest and the beautiful wooden houses emerge from leafy shadows which give the town a quiet and peaceful air. It was a rich town for a long time, and the neglect of half a century couldn’t destroy its beauty.

While the town has rejuvenated itself, many of the large spas are still in mothballs. Opposite the tourist information centre it is possible to enter the grounds of one. Overgrown athletic equipment from the 1920s – steps and bars and wading pools – lurk in the greenery. The place has an eerie feel to it, perhaps the ghosts of those long ago fitness fanatics are still puffing along the trails or struggling over chin-ups.

There are a number of spa resorts up and running again, some with reasonable hotel rates. If budget travel is more your style, the campsite next to the tourist info is large, new and has cabins for rent. Druskininkai is about 120 km from the capital city Vilnius and several buses run daily.

If you have any questions just ask a local, but preferably one under the age of 25. They have had English in school and love practising it. You might even get introduced to the latest Lithuanian hip-hop on their iPod, and that is well worth it indeed.

Written by Jacinta Lodge

In addition to the national carriers (BA and SAS), other airlines that operate between the UK and Sweden are Ryanair and Sterling. There were others, but these two budget options withstood the test of time and high oil prices. While Ryanair is infamous for using out-of-the-way airports, its hubs in Sweden are actually well connected to the cities they serve. Both Skavsta close to Stockholm and Gothenburg-Save , which is also known as Gothenburg City Airport are served by bus coaches that meet all incoming flights. The trip from Skavsta to Stockholm Central takes about 90 minutes and costs 150/249SEK one-way/round trip on Flygbussarna.

The same bus company operates between Gothenburg City Airport and the city proper, the ride takes about 30 minutes and costs 60/110SEK one-way/round trip. Discounts for children and students are available, and you can also purchase a 10-trip card. You can buy your bus tickets directly on the Flygbussarna website using a credit card.

Sterling, the other budget airline operating between the UK and Sweden, flies to major hubs of Stockholm-Arlanda and Malmö-Sturup. While Sterling’s prices can’t match the rock-bottom offers of Ryanair, the convenience of arriving at a major airport is one of the reasons why it gets my vote.

Here is a list of departure points in the UK and destinations in Sweden for both Ryanair and Sterling.

Ryanair flies to Skavsta-Stockholm (NYO) from: Edinburgh, Birmingham, and Liverpool. From Glasgow Prestwick and London Stansted it has flights to both Skavsta and Gothenburg City Airport (GSE).

Sterling flies from London Gatwick to Malmö Sturup (MMX), Gothenburg Landvetter (GOT) and Stockholm Arlanda (ARN). Additionally, there are flights to Arlanda from Edinburgh and Nottingham – East Midland.

written by Anna Etmanska

When I read about a company called Tots to Travel I thought it sounded a really good idea to have a selection of accommodation chosen for families with young kids and asked the founder Wendy Shand to do a guest interview.

1 What is the aim of your business?

The central aim of Tots to Travel with Totstofrance and Totstoitaly is to provide parents with genuinely family friendly holiday accommodation so that they stand the chance of having a relaxing and peaceful holiday! All our self catering properties have been vetted to ensure that they are safe and fully equipped for families with small children and babies whilst still appealing to our adult sensibilities about what makes delicious holiday accommodation!

2 What prompted you to start your own business?

Personal experience! We went on holiday to France with my two small children and got there to find that it was just seriously hard work and a bit scary - no stairgates, tiled floors, no equipment and so on. The bit that sealed it was when my little boy, then aged 2.5 fell into an unenclosed pool - thankfully we were all sitting around the edge and we were able to pull him out - but it was then that I had the sharp realisation that this was not a game and that things can go horribly wrong on holiday. The Houseowner then sent me a feedback form which I helpfully filled in with all my thoughts and therein was the seed of the idea. It really was the holiday that changed the path of my life!

3 What has been the hardest aspect of having your own business?

There are lots of bits that pose a challenge but I think the hardest bit is that it is just such hard work and never goes away! We have only recently begun to be able to take a holiday without dragging the laptop with us… In many ways it is like having another child. I had not envisaged the emotional rollercoaster, the immense highs and profound lows, but overall I have to say that it has been the most exciting and satisfying thing that I have ever done in my professional career and would not have changed a moment of it.

4 What is the funniest thing that has happened to you running your own business?

In the early days we identified that we wanted to grow our database of contacts so set up our ‘Tots Club’ which would keep interested parents up to date with new developments. As an incentive we offered a free branded bib to every new club joiner which worked well and really helped to grow the database. The problem came when we were hit by a scam called FreebieHunters ie. a website devoted to people who just want to get things for free. All of a sudden we saw a surge in new club joiners and thought thatour luck was in! It did not take long for us to realise that we had been scammed and had to take swift action to remove the free offer before it got out of hand. At the time it was really quite stressful but I can laugh at it now and I suppose that out of every challenge you learn more to take you to the next stage.

5 Is there anything you would do differently with the benefit of hindsight?

Hindsight is a marvellous thing! I think on balance that I am pleased with most of the decisions that we have made. Many of themistakes that we have made are due to the fact that we could not have predicted the sheer growth of the business - 6 fold growth in year 2 and double in year 3. Every six months we have found ourselves in a completely different place from where we had been only six months earlier. I am fairly pragmatic about this, you can’t make decisions based on information that you do not know. With the benefit of hindsight I would have started to register our trademarks much sooner than I did as when we came to do it, one of the names that we wanted had already gone. C’est la vie!

My comments - This brings back memories of going on holiday to Greece with our 13 month old twin sons. The accommodation had stone flagged floors. Our sons couldn’t walk and were still crawling around. Therefore they had to spend most of their time indoors in their cots. Coming from a carpeted home in the UK, we really hadn’t considered the hazards of a stone floor. We’d also assumed that they could crawl around on the beach but the sand was too hot for most of the day. To make matters even worse the brake on their twin buggy had been damaged in transit, so if they were sitting in the buggy someone had to hold the buggy securely.

I know exactly what Wendy means about the highs and lows of running your own business which is why I have entitled my Twitter updates “Everyday agony and ecstasy of a non techie Scot running a travel business and blog”.

My photo of  Duddingston Loch in Holyrood Park, Edinburgh  has been short listed for inclusion in the 2008 Schmap Scotland Guide. The Schmaps guides offer a dynamic, interactive integration of maps and guides content.

Duddingston Loch, Holyrood Park, Edinburgh

The photo is part of my Edinburgh:  Off the beaten track guide where I describe things to do in Edinburgh away from the tourist trail. Holyrood Park is an amazing open space a couple of miles from the city centre.  If you’re feeling energetic you can climb Arthur’s Seat (in the background of the photo) for great panoramic views.

I think I’ve taken some better photos of Edinburgh but hey any publicity has to be good.

Girona is an ideal short break destination easily reached from all over Europe with Ryanair flights. Most people get straight on the bus to go to Barcelona. However if you are looking for somwhere a bit quieter and different, Girona is a good choice. Girona was christened one of the most underrated and overlooked destinations by Fodor’s and I certainly agree.

The riverside in Girona

Girona is a really beautiful city, with medieval origins, situated on the River Onyar. You could easily spend a couple of days wandering round the old town, walking the city walls, visiting the cafes, restaurants and shops. With the Tiquet M5 you pay the full entrance fee at the first city museum you visit and receive a 50% discount when you visit the other musuems. The grand cathedral, housing the widest unsupported Gothic arch in the world, dates from the 11th century. The Jewish quarter is one of the largest and best preserved in Europe.

Square in Girona

I’ve visited Girona couple of times but all too briefly, once an overnight after an evening arrival at Girona airport and the other visit was on a day trip when I was staying on the coast We stayed at the centrally located 3 star Hotel Peninsular. One of best aspects about the Peninsular was the sumptious breafkast buffet.

If you have more than a couple of days, Girona offers many possibilities for day trips either by rail or bus or hiring a car. You could have a day by the sea, I really liked Cadaques on the Cap de Creus penisula, north of Girona. It was a favourite of both Picasso and Dali. You could go inland and visit Besalu, the Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres or the lake at Banyoles. If you’re feeling adventurous it doesn’t take long to reach the the Perpignan area in the south western corner of France.

Besalu, Girona Province

This post was featured on the Carnival of Travel Guide no 8.

Trieste is tucked away in the north eastern corner of Italy, close the border with Slovenia. It was seaport of the Hapsburg empire for many years and even 70% of Italians questioned in a recent opinion poll didn’t know that Trieste was part of Italy.

Trieste seafront in the evening

In Trieste you can enjoy a combination of a sea/beach holiday and the attractions of a cultural city. The sea in the Gulf of Trieste is very clear and clean, with limestone cliffs and rocky beaches. The centre of the city has a mid-European feel, more Austrian than Italian.

The City Hall, Piassa Unita Italia, Trieste

You can sip coffee on Piazza Unita Italia with its grand 19th century buildings, while looking out over the Adriatic. As Trieste is a port it was one of the first European cities to take to coffee in a big way. The first coffee houses in Trieste opened at the beginning of the 18th century. These cafés become very popular with artists and intellectuals. Several of the original cafes are going strong, the Tommeseo and the Cafee degli Specchi. Triestines are very particular about their coffee. If you order a cappuccino the Trieste version will be a black coffee with a little milk. You would need to order an Italian cappuccino. Mixing spirits with coffee is a no-no, viewed as a beverage favoured by foreign lorry drivers!

Of course there’s a lot more to Trieste than cafe society. The Barcolana regatta is held on the second Sunday of October. This is a sailing competition which has run for 30 years and has almost 2000 vessels competing. From October to May the concert and opera season unfolds in the historic neo-Classical Teatro Comunale Giuseppe Verdi (opened in 1801 and designed by Matteo Petch, architect of Milan’s La Scala) and the modern Sala Tripcovich. The festival of Light Opera is held in July and August at the Verdi. Miramare Castle was built for Archduke Maximilian as a residence by the sea and gardens. Probably the best is The Revoltella Museum, which was founded in 1872 when Baron Revoletta left his home and art collection to the city of Trieste.

Miramare Castle

So if you’re looking for somewhere different for an Italian short break or part of a trip around Italy, Trieste is a great destination.

This post was featured in Carnival of Cities, February 13 2008.

Stirling was awarded city status in 2002 as part of the Queen Elizabeth’s Golden Jubilee celebrations. I lived in the Stirling area for 18 years. I loved living there as I had the benefits of a large town/small city yet you could be in the countryside in a few minutes.

Stirling sits in the centre of Scotland, roughly equidistant between Edinburgh to the east and Glasgow to the west. Stirling offers the visitor the opportunity to experience a unique blend of well-preserved history and culture within an area of outstanding natural beauty. I think it’s an ideal short break or touring location. Stirling is well served by rail and you can reach Edinburgh, Glasgow or Perth in less than one hour. If you want to explore the surrounding countryside it’s best to have a car.

Stirling is probably best know for its castle. I really like the graveyards just down from the castle. My favourite walk in Stirling is called the Back Walk, a circular walk from the city centre to the castle. The Old Town Jail is en route to the castle.

Stirling Castle

The Wallace Monument honours William Wallace who won the battle of Stirling Bridge against the English in 1297. The monument became very popular after Mel Gibson (sporting a very dodgy Scottish accent) portrayed the hero in the film “Braveheart”. The monument car park had to be extended to cope with the deluge of visitors. Another famous Scottish victory is commemorated at the site of the Battle of Bannockburn.

If you feel like some retail therpy the Thistles Centre has over 90 shops in a bright, modern covered mall. There are plenty of restaurants in Stirling. I’d recommend Mr Singh’s Indian Brasserie, 16 - 18 Barnton Street, tel 01786 464019, it has great buffets. The River House restaurant, tel 01786 465577, sits by a small lake on the outskirts of Stirling. I have eaten here several times and really enjoyed the food and the setting of the restaurant. They offer a fixed price lunch and early evening dinner.

So if you’re looking for somewhere different for a UK short break or a base from which to visit central Scotland, Stirling is a hot contender.

This post was feature done the Carnival of Travel Guide no 6 on 27 January 2008 and The Carnival of Cities on 28 January 2008.

Gothenburg lies on the western coast of the southern tip of Sweden. It’s extremely civilised city, low key, sophisticated in an unpretentious manner, far from soulless and regimented yet orderly and relaxing. I think it’s a great city to visit both for adults travelling solo, couples, groups of adults and families.

Gothenburg Quayside

Gothenburg is a grand city in an architectural sense, very spacious. I’ve heard it called the Swedish Amsterdam. I think that this is a slight on Gothenburg, as in my opinion it is much more attractive and less commercialised than Amsterdam. As a lone female, I felt relatively safe walking around in the evening. There was very little litter around, no beggars or hustlers and a fairly obvious but discreet police presence. As soon as you approached a pedestrian crossing, the cars would stop. All the locals that I spoke to replied in good or excellent English and were very polite and helpful.

I think many people are put off visiting Sweden as they believe it’ll be very expensive but I found prices for most things, except alcohol, to be similar to the UK.

If you purchase the Gothenburg Pass, which costs £25 per adult and £18 per child for 48 hours, covers all public transport, including ferries to the nearby islands of the Southern Archipelago and free entry to most museums and attractions.

Salthommnen, harbour for Southern Archipelago

Gothenburg is easy to reach with flights from all over Europe with the low cost carrier Ryanair.

This post was featured in the Carnival of Cities on 14 January 2006

I think when you’re young it’s all too easy to catergorise your home town as a dump and you can’t wait to get out of it. I was born in the city of Dundee but only lived there until I was five years old. When I spoke of my place of birth it was in rather disparaging terms.  I didn’t really spend time in Dundee until recently, forty years later.

Now I’m impressed by Dundee and can say that researching and writing a Guide to Dundee for my travel website has been a a personal rediscovery. That ties in pretty neatly with Dundee’s slogan, “City of Discovery“, coined in the 1980s when the ship “Discovery”, built in Dundee, which transported Scott on his doomed expedition to the South Pole, was returned home.

City Square, Dundee

One of the best things is the friendliness and sense of humour of the residents, the Dundonians. The city has picked itself up by the boot straps and moved on from its industrial past and embraced its future. The city centre is looking great with pride of place in the city centre to some of it’s best known comic book characters from the Dandy and Beano, Desperate Dan, Minnie the Minx and Gnasher, Dennis the Menace’s dog.

Desperate Dan, Minnie the Minx and Gnasher statues, Dundee

So, you exiles, before you diss your home town, check it out and do some reappraisal, it may not be as bad as you remember. In a a full circle, we’re thinking of going to live in Dundee in the future, in the Broughty Ferry area close to the sea. If you’d told me thirty years ago I’d choose to live in Dundee and be promoting it as a great day out or short break destination, I’d have burst into laughter and uttered, “No Way”.

London has been voted the best holiday destination in the world in by travel agents. There are several cities in Europe that I would rate more highly than London such as Rome and Madrid. I have to say that London was looking better than for many years when I visited last month.

The London Eye

Visit London, the London tourist promotion authority has signed a deal with TripAdvisor to include TripAdvisor user generated reviews on London accommodation and attractions from next month. Sounds like a win - win situation for both parties. Visit London gets more “authentic” content and Trip Advisor can make more money from clients who wish to advertise their products and services in London.

If you’re planning to visit London you can find the best hotel deals with the HotelsCombined price comparison site.