Archive for the ‘Day trips’ Category

An Afternoon at Ulriksdal Palace

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

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Ulriksdal Palace is situated just north of Stockholm in Solna. The palace is close enough to be a perfect afternoon outing. The subways head out in that direction and will leave you with about a 15 minute walk through a national park.

Ulriksdal Palace

After wandering through the park you’ll come across the castle on the shore of Edsviken which leads out to the Baltic Sea. Built during the 1600s, Ulriksdal Palace was once used as a country residence for the royal family. However, the palace has been accessible to the public since 1986. Unfortunately, the palace is only open to visitors during the summer months (June, July, and August in Sweden), but the grounds are open year round.

Ulriksdal Palace Looking out Over the Grounds

Various buildings dot the area, most of which are museums open to visitors. I stumbled upon a beautiful old church that, unfortunately, did not seem to be open to the public. Every last door was locked. I checked.

It is Ulriksdal Palace though that is the draw in terms of buildings. But I have to confess, I did not go into the palace. I was distracted by the beautiful natural setting and slowly made my way through the park. I was not alone. Scores of people were out and about enjoying the weather, the view, and the park. Wasting away the afternoon in the best possible way.

Ulriksdal Palace from the Distance

If you’re looking for an easy get-away from Stockholm, Ulriksdal Palace allows you to escape the city without having to go too far.

The Viking Town of Birka – Sweden’s Oldest Town

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

The word “Viking” often conjures up visions of sea-faring warriors with horned helmets. And while some of those stereotypes are true, the horned helmets are not. Even the warrior part only applied to a small percentage of the population of Sweden during the Viking age.

Those who weren’t busy raiding and trading stayed in Sweden. Farming, and even founding towns. Like Birka.

Birka is the perfect day-trip destination from Stockholm. Boats leave every day during the summer months from in front of Stockholm City Hall. The boat ride lasts about two hours and guides (sometimes actual archeologists) dressed in Viking garb pipe in during the trip describing the history of the surrounding areas.

Birka Viking View

Birka is often referred to as Sweden’s first town. The town was founded in the middle of the 800s, and abandoned about 15 or 20 years later. No one knows exactly why. Today, Birka is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Birka Town Wall

For those hoping that the UNESCO designation means the chance to traipse through archeological ruins, you will be disappointed. The Viking age was marked by wooden buildings. As a general rule, wooden buildings do not preserve well over the course of a thousand years.

Birka Burial Mounds

Birka is home, however, to one of Scandinavia’s largest Viking age burial grounds. The burial mounds dot the landscape when entering through the gates that mark the UNESCO site. The surrounding countryside is spectacular. The rolling hills, free roaming sheep, and a view of the lake dotted by the Swedish islands make a trip to Birka a wonderful day trip away from the city.

The Best Scones in Wales

Monday, June 15th, 2009neha

Last year on a holiday in Wales, we stayed at a charming B&B, the Celyn Villa. At breakfast as we sat with open maps, our hostess, Pauline, offered a suggestion. She wondered if we’d be interested in tasting the best scones in Wales. Obviously we were!

She suggested a tiny teahouse on the banks of the Conwy River in Llanrwst. It was quite a drive but she assured us it would be worth it and more. We couldn’t have picked a better day to head to a tea house. The weather, which promised to be bright and sunny, had turned into a depressing drizzle. We piled into the car and went in search of some mouth-watering scones.

Beyond the Bridge

Tu Hwnt i’r Bont or Beyond the Bridge is one of the oldest teahouses in the country and a good one at that. It enjoys the perfect setting; it is situated along the water and is dressed in mint green foliage. The place screams teahouse.

Built as a residential quarter in 1480, it was converted to a tea room a little over 50 years ago. Its small wooden door open to low wooden beams and rustic tables and chairs. The walls hold traditional blue and white patterned porcelain and jars full of fresh, warm jams. The place smells delicious.

We lost ourselves in the menu for a while before belting out our orders. Tea and scones. Within minutes a tattooed waiter piled out table with tea pots, plates full of scones, sandwiches and cakes, each to be savoured. We spent hours polishing off every crumb on the plate.  And then we ordered half a dozen more to take home. Those were the best scones I’ve ever tasted. I still dream about them on damp, rainy days.


Saving the matryoshka dolls at Sergiev Posad

Tuesday, June 9th, 2009Amanda Kendle

Sergiev Posad and its gorgeous monastery are an easy day trip from Moscow, and if you like bringing home some authentic souvenirs there’s another reason to go there – it’s claimed that the matryoshka (or nesting) dolls originate from this town. When I visited, there was an outdoor market selling table after table full of hand-painted matryoshkas, and they were also a lot cheaper than those you could find in Moscow.

Matryoshka Dolls

And there’s an even better reason to head to Sergiev Posad now for your souvenir purchases – the matryoshka industry is suffering from the economic downturn, according to an article I read recently in the Washington Post newspaper. Apparently orders from souvenir shops have been cut and the tourist numbers are way down, and Sergiev Posad has asked the Russian government to help them with a “bailout” measure – buying up US$30 million worth of matryoshka dolls for officials to give away as gifts. For me, this is reason alone to add Sergiev Posad to your Moscow trip – and it’s a pretty town to visit as well.

Union Bridge, Horncliffe – the oldest suspension bridge in the world

Sunday, May 31st, 2009Karen Bryan

Union Bridge, also known as Chain Bridge, traversing the River Tweed near Horncliffe, was the first suspension bridge built in Europe for vehicles. It is the oldest suspension bridge still in use in the world.

It is a single lane bridge, limited to one vehicle at a time. The bridge was constructed in 1820 by Captain S Brown of the Royal Navy. In the past the river was crossed by a ford, as the tide no longer affects the river at this point.

Union Bridge is only a couple of miles of the A1, signposted to turn west at the A689 to Coldstream at the roundabout south of Berwick upon Tweed. Chain Bridge Honey Farm is a few hundred metres from the bridge.

It’s an interesting and beautiful historic site to visit if you are in Northumberland or the Scottish Borders.

Update 31 May 2009

At present a section of the road between the Honey Farm and Union Bridge is closed due to a landslide. However there is still pedestrian access.

This post was first published in August 2007 but I’ve added the video of the walk over Union Bridge shot on 30 May 2009 and the access update.

Coffee Breaks at Rastoke

Monday, May 25th, 2009neha

One of my favourite weekend stops is the little mill village of Rastoke. A thirty minute drive from Zagreb, it stands between the city and the Plitvice Lakes National Park

Rastoke

Rastoke sits along the waterfalls at the confluence of the Korana and Slunjčica rivers. It often answers to the moniker of ‘Small Plitivice’ and like the Lakes it too is built on a limestone barrier. 

The village is known for its 18th century flour mills, traditional homes, cafes and quaint restaurants. It offers visitors simple delights like a pleasant walk around the village, a biking trail, and coffee by the waterfall. Everywhere you go the soft, rhythmic murmur of flowing water follows. It has an incredibly relaxing effect on the mind.  

Rastoke_1

The walkways and wooden bridges around Rastoke lead up to old, but functional, mills; you can buy fresh corn bread and flour even today. The rich, warm aromas from the mills waft around the village and entice you into a healthy appetite. For this I recommend heading to the picnic tables and ordering a plate of the succulent pork chops on offer.  

The homes here are constructed based on traditional designs. They are built on two levels – the ground level is constructed from stone, to protect the house from water and the upper floors are built from wood; the construction here is more intricate, allowing for artistic flair.  Some these homes double up as guest houses. 

Rastoke_2

It’s hard to believe now but during the Balkan war, Rastoke sustained great damage. The area was under attack. The waterfalls were loaded with explosives and the homes were burnt down. Since then the area has undergone a successful restoration program. 

The village enjoy great natural advantage: two swirling rivers, waterfalls and the greenery ensure that bikers, hikers, anglers and rafter all find a corner here, as do coffee drinkers like me.

Horror and History at Gross-Rosen Concentration Camp

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Concentration camps, as a general rule, are not always at the top of the list when people are sight-seeing.  People do not like being reminded of certain historical events.  Especially events that, in the grand scheme of things, did not happen all that long ago.

From an historical perspective though, concentration camps, offer a glimpse at the horror that was the Holocaust.  While most people know the history behind Auschwitz, few know about the Gross-Rosen camp.  A Nazi concentration camp about 65 miles southwest of Wroclaw in what is now Poland.

gross-rosen-memorial

Gross-Rosen is very much out of the way, lying just outside of Rogoźnica.  It is not easy to get there.  The train station, is a small building which seems to watch more freight trains go by than passenger trains.  Which is why I found myself taking a very long, but reasonably priced, taxi ride out to Rogoźnica.

I arrived to vast emptiness.  Not a single person was around.  I wandered around thinking I would eventually run into someone.  Somewhere.  Finally, I walked into a building, which doubled as the reception and the museum.  Expecting to have to pay something, I asked how much.  Nothing.  It was free.  I was prepared to pay; I wanted to support the preservation of this history, but nope, completely free. 

Instead, I wandered around the museum with a notebook that translated everything into English for me.  The displays were incredible.  Graphic.  Depressing.  The actual concentration camp was much of the same.

Having started as a work-camp, eventually becoming a concentration camp, Gross-Rosen put over 100,000 people to work in the rock quarry.  Over 40,000 of them died. 

gross-rosen-entrance-memorial

The entrance made this abundantly clear, in a most macabre way because posted just above the entrance were the words “ARBEIT MACHT FREI.”  In my very loose and literal English translation, “work makes free.”

gross-rosen-entrance

I wandered through the camp, looking at the various buildings, the personal memorials, the large memorial to all victims of the Holocaust.  They stood in stark contrast to the beautiful Polish countryside surrounding the camp. 

After nearly three hours of throwing myself into one of the most sobering travel experiences, I was still alone.  Not a single person had stopped by.  Finally, I began making my way back into Rogoźnica and my trip back to Wroclaw. 

My time at Gross-Rosen was quiet, humbling, depressing, but most important, it was historical.  Given the chance, I would visit a concentration camp again.  Because some things are better not forgotten.

Chester: Roman Ruins and Shopping Sprees

Monday, May 18th, 2009neha

The city of Chester is one my favourite stops in England, mainly because it combines two of my biggest passions – history and shopping – and ties them into a perfect little bow.

Chester

Chester serves up a generous dose of heritage with great style. This city began as a Roman fort, and souvenirs from that time are spread all across; the most prominent remains include the city walls, the ruins of an amphitheatre outside the walls and the remains of Dewa, a fortress that lies buried beneath the modern city. The fantastic Dewa Roman Experience allows you to take a closer look at life in Roman times through its exhibits and reconstructions. The Grosvenor also adds to the Roman intrigue through its impressive display of Roman tombstones and artefacts.

The Romans aren’t the only ones to have left their mark on the city. The Chester Cathedral manages to hold its own as does the Chester Castle. Situated close to the River Dee, this once powerful structure still retains its rock solid charm.

Castle

As do the Chester Rows. These two-tiered structures, typically designed in black and white form the heart of the city’s medieval core. Tacked one after the other, they house modern stores and popular brands, and offer hours and hours of shopping. If that isn’t your cup of tea, simply stroll along these cosy streets and take in the city’s magic.

Rows

When your feet tire, find a spot at one of the little cafes along the Rows and watch the street performers do their thing over a pint of cold beer. 

Trakoscan Castle, Croatia

Monday, May 11th, 2009neha

If you happen to be in Zagreb and have a day to spare, be sure to visit the lovely Trakoscan Castle. Located about an hour’s drive from the city, this 13th century structure was originally a small part of the Zagorje principality defence fortification. And while little is known of the original fortification, the castle rose, both in size and prominence over the years. Several influential, aristocratic families have claimed ownership at one time or the other; each family added and accessorized to the original structure leading to the form we see today.

Trakoscan Castle

Sitting on a hilltop, Trakoscan’s distinct yellow-white walls and red turrets are visible from a distance. Peeping out from a cover of rich green, it makes for quite a picture. The view is equally spectacular from the top. Along the twisting gravel walking path that leads to the castle gates, you can admire the well manicured landscape below, complete with an artificial lake and a fairytale chapel.

Trakoscan

The castle has four levels, including the dungeons. Converted into a museum in 1953, it allows for authentic period exhibits – a small courtyard, an equipped kitchen, dining and entertaining halls, bedrooms, a knight’s room (with a fascinating collection of weapons from the 15-19th century), a lavish music parlour and even a hunting room. The rooms are fully furnished. You’ll come across some amazing antique furniture here. The rooms are also adorned with family portraits, memorabilia and the elaborate family coat-of-arms; so neat is the set up, that you can’t shake the feeling that someone still lives here. 

Glimmingehus: Sweden’s oldest medieval manor house

Wednesday, May 6th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

Southern Sweden, known as Skåne, was once part of Denmark. Today, the region is dotted by centuries old farms, manor houses, and the occasional castle.

glimmingehus-side-view

Glimmingehus is one of Sweden’s older medieval buildings with construction having started in 1499. Not really looking like your classic castle, Glimmingehus was built as a fortress meant to defend what was then Denmark. Apparently, the strength of the fortress was never tested and instead it was used as a residence for the Danish knight Jens Holgersen Ulfstand.

Today, Glimmingehus is a classic medieval ruin. The building allows almost total access complete with various booby traps, none of which seem to be active. Although, the holes in the floors and walls designed for boiling tar and large rocks to be thrown onto unsuspecting enemy invaders is a stark reminder of the security measures in use at the time.

glimmingehus-inside

Luckily, the employees of Glimmingehus who now guide people through the building avoid any form of medieval violence, instead focusing on the history of the area, the building, and southern Sweden. While a bit out of the way, a short day trip to Glimmingehus allows you to escape into the often overlooked medieval history of Scandinavia.