Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category

Guest Post: Quirky Collections in London with free entry

Thursday, June 25th, 2009Karen Bryan

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In this guest post, Margaret Doherty describes the private passions of London’s great collectors, ranging from weird and wonderful to classical and modern. Entry is free of charge at all the collections.

The Wellcome Collection

Wellcome Collection, London

Prosethic by mr hyde

Henry Wellcome arrived from America in 1880 and with old college friend and fellow pharmaceutical salesman Silas Burroughs established Burroughs Wellcome & Co in London the same year. With their innovative products like the ‘tabloid’ (until then medicines had only been available as liquids or powders, not in tablet form) and new marketing methods such as celebrity endorsements and slick advertising it soon became a hugely successful multinational company.

But it was Henry’s childhood in America and his early years travelling the world on research and business that fostered his interest in other cultures. During his years in London he was also something of a socialite, mixing with many of the famous explorers and travellers of the day – Scott of the Antarctic was just one of his many famous customers. As his wealth increased his philanthropic and personal interests such as medical research, anthropology and archaeology could be properly indulged. He collected over a million medically related objects of which the Medicine Man exhibition at the Wellcome Collection displays a fascinating and diverse selection of around 500 items from this vast number including Napoleon’s toothbrush, Darwin’s walking stick and George III’s hair. There are delicate Chinese diagnostic dolls, early artificial limbs and surgical instruments to strike terror in the strongest constitution.

But above all, what this collection shows is that the human condition, its fears and concerns with health and well-being, have changed little over the centuries. 4th-2nd Century BC Etruscan terracotta votive offerings reveal that they too were worried about hair-loss and sought a remedy. Don’t forget to check out some of the cabinets filled with other ‘medical’ items including a small Rembrandt etching of an itinerant street hawker selling medicines (1635) and a satirical aquatint by Goya of an ass (physician) searching in vain for the pulse of his long-dead patient.

Sir John Soane’s Museum

Sir John Soane's dressing room

Sir Johm Soane’s dressing room by Martin Charles

This museum was also the home of Sir John Soane, one of England’s greatest architects, who wanted his collection to educate and inspire both ‘Amateurs and Students in Painting, Architecture and Sculpture’ and on his instructions has largely been left as it was at his death in 1837. The larger, elegant dimensions of the dining room and library give way to his surprisingly tiny study where he worked at a small table by the window. It is painted in Pompeian red thought to be inspired by a fragment of wall plaster he found when visiting the excavations at Pompeii and like much of the house it is full of antique marble fragments reflecting his love of architectural detail and fine carving.

With so many objects on display Soane maximized the feeling of light and space throughout the house with strategically placed mirrors, domes and skylights. The Picture Room, designed by Soane in 1824 when he was 71, is a must see. The walls are what he called ‘moveable planes’, a number of hinged screens that hold over 100 pictures and use the best quality materials including brass and mahogany inlaid with ebony. On the ‘outer’ walls are the celebrated Hogarth series A Rake’s Progress and his political satire An Election. Inside the screens are Turner watercolors, Piranesi drawings and many of Soane’s own building designs executed by Joseph Gandy. Other treasures in the house include paintings by Canaletto, the sarcophagus of Seti I (1303-1290 BC) from the Valley of the Kings and a portrait of Soane by Sir Thomas Lawrence.

Visitor numbers are controlled so you may have to queue outside for your turn to enter. The first Tuesday evening of every month has a candlelight opening from 6-9pm which is very popular so expect to queue.

The Wallace Collection

Wallace Collection courtyard

Wallace Collection courtyard by maong

In a quiet square just off the bustle of Oxford Street lies one of London’s great treasures. The Wallace Collection contains works of art collected in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries by the first four Marquesses of Hertford and Sir Richard Wallace, the son of the 4th Marquess, bequeathed to the British nation by Sir Richard’s widow, Lady Wallace, in 1897.

The collection of fine and decorative arts includes eighteenth century French paintings, furniture, and porcelain as well as a wealth of European and oriental objects housed in Hertford House, the main London townhouse of its former owners. Highlights include the work of Old Masters such as Titian, Rembrandt, Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier and The Rainbow Landscape by Rubens as well as work by Fragonard, Boucher and beautiful miniatures. Downstairs the arms and armour section is a real contrast to the delicate and romantic works that fill the upper rooms.

Try and catch a free public tour held at 11.30am on days when there isn’t a special themed talk programmed.

Glass exhibition at the Edinburgh College of Art Degree Show June 2009

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009Karen Bryan

This afternoon I visited the Degree Show at the Edinburgh College of Art. I just made it to the final day of the Art and Design Show. The Architecture and Architectural Landscape Show runs until 2 July 2009.

I must confess that I have a penchant for glass art, so I was happy that there was a Glass Exhibition. There were many lovely pieces on display but I concentrated on the work of a couple of students in the video. Firstly the botanical panels and glass tree by Roz McKenzie and the agricultural scenes and farmyard animals by Emma McGarvie.

You’ll notice some views of Edinburgh Castle in the background, quite a grand backdrop to the exhibition.

I have to thank the Wandering Educators for alerting me to the Degree Show. It certainly is a multi national world.

Glasgow Mela 2009: Free multi cultural festival

Monday, June 22nd, 2009Karen Bryan

On Sunday 21 June we visited the Glasgow Mela 2009 held in Kelvingrove Park.  It’s an annual, free, multi cultural event. It was a warm, dry afternoon so there was a good turnout.  I thought there was a great variety of performances and activites for everyone.

Were you at the Mela in Glasgow?  What did you most enjoy?

Guest Post – Kryžių Kalnas (Hill of Crosses) in Lithuania

Wednesday, June 10th, 2009Karen Bryan

In this guest post Brooke Allen, author of the Rambling Brooke blog, takes us beyond the usual tourist attractions in Lithuania.

“A trip to Lithuania is sure to include a visit to Vilnius, Lithuania’s capital and largest city. During my first trip to this country, I remember exiting the plane after an exhausting trip, wandering down Gedimino prospektas (Gediminas Avenue) struggling to keep my eyes open, and drinking a Švyturys beer and eating kepta duona (fried bread) under Gediminas castle. Six years and five extended visits later, these things are all still great and an absolute must-do, but they are also easily found and researched on any travel or personal website. For this post, I’m going to take you somewhere that is slightly off the beaten path, yet still popular with locals and tourists alike.

Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

About 10 kilometers north of Šiauliai, the 4th largest city in Lithuania, there is a tree-lined road with a sign pointing to the Hill of Crosses. No one can directly pin point when the first cross was placed on this small hill, but it is thought to have started after an 1831 uprising. The hill took on special meaning during the era of Soviet occupation. Lithuanians continued to leave crosses on the hill to signify their religion and heritage. It became a spot of peaceful resistance to the Soviet regime. Soviets diligently removed or bulldozed the crosses, but new ones continued to replace them. After the fall of the Soviet Union, the Hill of Crosses continued to grow and was visited and blessed by Pope John Paul II in 1993.

I first visited the Hill of Crosses during my second trip to Lithuania. I returned for the first time in four years yesterday. During that time, the hill has sprouted more crosses and the facilities (parking, souvenir stands, etc.) have been modernized with funds from the European Union, but the focal point still remains the same. Upon entering the hill, the first thing you notice is, of course, crosses. Not only single crosses, but crosses adorning crosses. The smaller crosses hanging on the crosses are decorated with even smaller crosses. After three generations of crosses, the youngest and smallest are topped with rosaries. The inscriptions on the crosses range from permanent marker to ornate plaques professionally adhered to beautifully carved works of art. The reasons for the crosses vary from company donations to a child hoping that his daddy is okay with Jesus. There are pictures of young lovers, separated too soon, stapled to crosses, while others are adorned with messages of thanksgiving or a simple, “We were here.”

Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

The brochure I picked up at a souvenir stand says that the Hill is everyone’s, that is transcends boundaries, and it does. Inscriptions are written in many different languages, and among the crosses, you can find Stars of David. The largest Star of David is now adorned and decorated just like the crosses it stands between. The Hill of Crosses is much more than a religious symbol. It brings people together and is a sign of hope. No matter the language or the religion, it shows that others are also dealing with loss and wishing for a better future.

Beyond the symbology, the visual aspect of the hill is powerful. It is truly an ornate monument and sculpture created by the hands of thousands of visitors over more than a century. I tried to find the cross I placed on the hill four years ago for my lost loved ones, but time has weathered the permanent marker and crosses marking newer losses and celebrations have slowly crowded the walkways. It is there, though, amongst the masses, celebrating what was and looking forward to what will be.

If you ever get the chance to visit, do it. It is slightly inconvenient to Vilnius if you don’t have a car and don’t care for buses, but the hill is powerful and there are some great roadside restaurants along the way.”

3 Harbours Festival: Giant paperboat launch at Cockenzie harbour

Saturday, June 6th, 2009Karen Bryan

The Giant Paperboat Launch, part of the 3 Harbours Arts Festival, took place at Cockenzie harbour in East Lothian on 4 June 2009. Several giant paperboats lined up ready for launching at 20.00 on the shoreline.

3 Harbours Festival paper boat launch, Cockenzie Harbour

The giant paper boats assemble at Cockenzie harbour

The first launch attempt of the largest paperboat at the shoreline was thrawted by the incoming tide, as the boat clung resolutely to a spot inches away from the shore.

Giant paper boat launch, 3 Harbours Festival

The first launch attempt of the largest paper boat

Undaunted the launching crew carried the vessel round the harbour to position themselves at the wall of the harbour mouth to get the paperboat into some deeper water by adopting the ‘drop launch” technique.

It was all great fun watching the Giant Paperboat Launch and a testament to all the effort , enthusiasm and hard work by the local community that goes into organising and running the annual 3 Harbours Arts Festival which runs until the 14th June, so there still time for you to join in some of the events. You can check out the events programme on the Festival site.

Video of Mixed Media Art Exhibition at the 3 Harbours Festival

Friday, June 5th, 2009Karen Bryan

I was fortunate to attend the opening preview of the mixed media art exhibition at the Cockenzie power station on 4 June 2009. The exhibition is part of the annual 3 Harbours Arts Festival which is entitled “art in unsual places”. The Festival is held in the three East Lothian coastal towns of Prestonpans, Cockenzie and Port Seton, which lie around 12 miles east of Edinburgh.

Video taken courtesy of 3 Harbours Arts Festival

I really enjoyed the art exhibition. I loved the glass art display along the window sill. You could see over the Forth Estuary towards Fife from the windows of the power station canteen. It certainly did fit the bill of “art in unusual places”.

What’s your favourite piece of art in the video?

The Natural Beauty of Delphi, Greece

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009Marcus Cederstrom

temple-of-apollo-4

Nestled in the mountains of central Greece and just a two and a half hour drive from Athens lies the ruins of Delphi (as well as a town, but it’s the old stuff that’s interesting). The archaeological site, which is also a World Heritage Site, is most famous for the oracle of Delphi.

temple-of-apollo-2

However, Delphi has so much more to offer than ancient prophesies. The Temple of Apollo is marked by a few beautiful remaining columns. The stadium gives rise to visions of ancient footraces with thousands of spectators filling the seats still visible today. And of course, a large theater. From its place on the side of a mountain it looks out over the Temple of Apollo and the valley below. It was this very view that caught my attention.

temple-of-apollo-1

I love history. To read it. To see it. I love to romanticize it and imagine what life was like. But what truly took my breath away was not the ruins, which were amazing, but the setting. To be honest, I wasn’t prepared for the mountains of Greece. The jagged rock and sheer cliff faces were an intimidating backdrop to the ancient ruins. Really, a beautiful juxtaposition to the spectacular view to the valley below.

theater-2

In fact, the scenery allowed me to romanticize the history of Delphi even more. The ancient kings coming to consult the oracle. The worship of Apollo. The early forms of athletic competition. The World Heritage Site designation is well-deserved at Delphi.

Budget ballet in Bratislava

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009Amanda Kendle

When I lived in Bratislava, the fountain in front of the Slovak National Theatre was a common place to arrange to meet someone; it wasn’t until near the end of my time there that I actually went inside the theatre. I saw a ballet there, and I remember being pretty impressed about how cheap the tickets were, for a great performance inside a fantastic historical building.

Slovak National Theatre

The good news is that even with Slovakia getting the euro, tickets are still cheap for performances held here – both the ballet and opera companies stage shows here. Check the Slovak National Theatre website before you travel, because you can book tickets online – and while the new building looks great, I guess I sentimentally recommend the shows which are on at what they call the “SND Historic building”.

To give you an idea of the value there – from ballet and opera companies which are certainly considered to be of a good standard – there are currently opera tickets on sale for Carmen which range from €6.64 to €29.87, depending on the category of seat – and that’s the most expensive opera! Ballet is even cheaper, and you could catch a performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream for between €3.98 and €9.96. When I was in Bratislava, bus loads of Viennese locals would take the hour-long trip from Vienna to Bratislava to see the opera or ballet here, and I imagine nothing’s changed.

Image – Wikimedia

The delightful church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, in Rome

Thursday, May 21st, 2009Heather Cowper

The area of Trastevere in Rome is one of those classic old Roman neighbourhoods, with narrow lanes and charming squares, filled with bars, restaurants and local colour. At the heart of the neighbourhood is the pedestrianised Piazza di Santa Maria and the lovely Chiesa Santa Maria which is well worth a visit. In the Piazza you can sit by the octagonal Roman fountain and eat an after-dinner gelato in the evening when the piazza comes alive with street entertainers, bars and restaurants.

Santa Maria in Trastavere

Chiesa Santa Maria was one of the first churches in which masses were openly celebrated in Rome and there has been a church here since 340 AD although the present church was built on the site in the 1140s. You enter through the cool portico adorned with broken marble plaques from ancient Roman tombs, written in Latin and Greek.

Santa Maria in Trastavere

Inside the church is adorned with beautiful mosaics and frescos and is full of colour. The columns that line the nave were plundered from the ancient Roman Baths of Caracalla. To the left of the altar is a 17th century chapel with the most beautiful painted frescos – look up and you’ll see the wonderful ceiling. The mosaic-tiled floors in the main church are in a distintive geometric style known as Cosmatesque after the craftsmen from Cosmati family who worked on them.

Santa Maria in Trastavere

Despite all this magnificence, it still retains the feel of a neighbourhood church. If you have a particular prayer request, you can write it on the scraps of paper provided and leave it in the arms of St Anthony at one side of the church, or light a candle in the crimson side chapel.

Santa Maria in Trastavere

What would your request be for St Anthony?

All photos from Heatheronhertravels.com at Flickr

Chester: Roman Ruins and Shopping Sprees

Monday, May 18th, 2009neha

The city of Chester is one my favourite stops in England, mainly because it combines two of my biggest passions – history and shopping – and ties them into a perfect little bow.

Chester

Chester serves up a generous dose of heritage with great style. This city began as a Roman fort, and souvenirs from that time are spread all across; the most prominent remains include the city walls, the ruins of an amphitheatre outside the walls and the remains of Dewa, a fortress that lies buried beneath the modern city. The fantastic Dewa Roman Experience allows you to take a closer look at life in Roman times through its exhibits and reconstructions. The Grosvenor also adds to the Roman intrigue through its impressive display of Roman tombstones and artefacts.

The Romans aren’t the only ones to have left their mark on the city. The Chester Cathedral manages to hold its own as does the Chester Castle. Situated close to the River Dee, this once powerful structure still retains its rock solid charm.

Castle

As do the Chester Rows. These two-tiered structures, typically designed in black and white form the heart of the city’s medieval core. Tacked one after the other, they house modern stores and popular brands, and offer hours and hours of shopping. If that isn’t your cup of tea, simply stroll along these cosy streets and take in the city’s magic.

Rows

When your feet tire, find a spot at one of the little cafes along the Rows and watch the street performers do their thing over a pint of cold beer.