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The Best Scones in Wales

Monday, June 15th, 2009neha

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Last year on a holiday in Wales, we stayed at a charming B&B, the Celyn Villa. At breakfast as we sat with open maps, our hostess, Pauline, offered a suggestion. She wondered if we’d be interested in tasting the best scones in Wales. Obviously we were!

She suggested a tiny teahouse on the banks of the Conwy River in Llanrwst. It was quite a drive but she assured us it would be worth it and more. We couldn’t have picked a better day to head to a tea house. The weather, which promised to be bright and sunny, had turned into a depressing drizzle. We piled into the car and went in search of some mouth-watering scones.

Beyond the Bridge

Tu Hwnt i’r Bont or Beyond the Bridge is one of the oldest teahouses in the country and a good one at that. It enjoys the perfect setting; it is situated along the water and is dressed in mint green foliage. The place screams teahouse.

Built as a residential quarter in 1480, it was converted to a tea room a little over 50 years ago. Its small wooden door open to low wooden beams and rustic tables and chairs. The walls hold traditional blue and white patterned porcelain and jars full of fresh, warm jams. The place smells delicious.

We lost ourselves in the menu for a while before belting out our orders. Tea and scones. Within minutes a tattooed waiter piled out table with tea pots, plates full of scones, sandwiches and cakes, each to be savoured. We spent hours polishing off every crumb on the plate.  And then we ordered half a dozen more to take home. Those were the best scones I’ve ever tasted. I still dream about them on damp, rainy days.


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Posted in Cuisine, Day trips, Wales by neha | No Comments »

Visit the market at Campo de’Fiori in Rome

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009Heather Cowper

Even if you’re not self-catering in Rome, the daily market at Campo de’Fiori is a sight to delight your eyes and make your mouth water. Here you’ll find the freshest of fresh veg, multicoloured salads, and the specialities of the season – such as artichokes in the spring and funghi in the autumn. There are also some food shops around the market which are the perfect place to buy foodie souvenirs to take home, but get there before lunch to make the most of the market in full swing.

Vegetables in the market at Campo d'Fiori, Rome

You’ll find a Roman bakery institution here at Forno Campo de’Fiori which is the place to stop off there for a mid morning or lunchtime snack of some Pizza slices. This artizan bakery has been there for over a century turning out breads and pastries and you could tell by the bustling atmosphere that it was a hit with locals and tourists alike. Try the Pizza Bianca, the flat bread sprinkled in olive oil and sea salt or any of the pizza slices fresh from the oven. From outside you can peek through the window into the bakery area next door and see the metre long pizzas being prepared then popped into the oven.

Pizza being made at Campo de'Fiori

Having bought our slice of Pizza, we ate our snack on the steps of the monument in the middle of the square under the brooding statue of Giordano Bruno, the monk who was burnt in 1600 on this spot for heresy. Just in front of the bakery was a fountain which was used as a source of water for the nearby flower stalls.

Once the market is over, the locals briefly reclaim their square before the bars and restaurants fill up again for the evening and become a magnet for students to come and meet their friends for a drink or dinner.

More photos of Rome from Heatheronhertravels on Flickr here

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Posted in Authentic travel, Cuisine, Italy by Heather Cowper | 2 Comments »

Some food to enjoy in Sardinia

Thursday, March 26th, 2009Heather Cowper

I spent my family holiday last summer in a beach resort in Sardinia and thought you might like to hear about some of the local specialities I tried. Sardinia is one of the larger islands off the coast of Italy – it’s actually a province of Italy, so this is about eating Italian with a local twist. The difference perhaps is that in Sardinia you only need to drive half an hour from the coast and you’re in the mountains, so it’s easy to find great seafood and more hearty country cooking within a small area.

Eating out in Sardinia

The general rules of eating Italian apply – you get some antipasti, a primo course of pasta, a secondo course of meat or fish and then maybe a desert. However, no one really expects you to eat all the courses unless you’re at a celebration meal or a leisurely Sunday lunch, so it’s easy to mix and match.

Antipasto in Sardinia

You could have some antipasti and then a plate of pasta or a pizza, or alternatively a plate of meat or fish. Just remember that the meat and fish is usually served very simply with just a small garnish and that’s why you have the pasta – to provide the element of the meal that fills you up.

Fish platter in Sardinia

If you’re used to a fast food culture you may find the service unbelievably slow in Sardinia. You need to take a deep breath and remember it’s partly because they don’t want to ruin your enjoyment by rushing you and partly because with Mama in the kitchen and Papa at front of house they are probably massively understaffed.

Pane carasau in Sardinia

And in Sardinia you always get a basket of the local crispy wafer bread called Pane Carrasau to nibble on. By the coast you’ll always get some excellent seafood and if you’re not sure what to try, then you’ll often find a mixed platter of fish on the menu. As you move inland, into the mountainous region the menu is more geared to meat. I tried a dish in red wine which I think was rabbit in a rich wine sauce – it was delicious but had so many bones. Our meals were all washed down with the local fruity red Cannonau wine.

As in Italy, the Sardinians don’t really go in for puddings, but if you’re in town you can wander across to the local gelataria to choose as many different flavoured scoops as you have room for, sometimes with a squirt of cream on top for extra holiday indulgence.

Gelato in Sardinia

One of the Sardinian pudding specialities that I did try is called Sebada. It’s two circles of pastry enclosing a filling of soft cheese then deep fried, and covered with honey. It sounded delicious, but when I tried it it was filled with Mozzarella cheese, which was stringy and unpleasant as it cooled. I think it would have been nice with soft cheese, so I would still try it again.

If you’re in a local town, be sure to seek out those artizan bakeries where they sell lots of different styles of biscuits which you can choose a selection and pay for by weight. We found a shop where they specialised in specially decorated biscuits for weddings and other celebration. I’d have loved to buy some but the shop was closed, so I had to just take photos. You can also find various products made with the local myrtle berry in the shops such as myrtle jam and myrtle liqueur which are ideal souvenirs to bring home.

Decorative biscuits in a bakery in Nuoro

Enjoy your local fare when you visit Sardinia but just remember to relax – nothing happens in a hurry in Sardinia!

All photos by Heather on her travels on Flickr

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Posted in Cuisine, Italy, Wine by Heather Cowper | 4 Comments »

Café culture in Greece

Thursday, January 22nd, 2009Heather Cowper

Part of enjoying your visit to any Greek town or city is to do as the Greeks do and sit with a coffee to watch the world go by. In the town square or by the harbour you’ll find the most popular cafés where both tourists and the trendy Greeks like to hang out. These will probably be the most expensive place to take your coffee, but what’s that against the opportunity to see and be seen. If you want to blend in, leave the shorts and vest tops for the beach and dress up a little with your chicest top, trendy jeans, gold jewellery and lip gloss like the Greek girls do. You’ll often find comfortable sofa or rattan style chairs that encourage you to relax in the early evening while you decide where to head next for dinner.

 Street cafe in Zante town

The authentic Greek coffee is served very strong, black and sweet in a small cup with a glass of water to clear your palate. Don’t knock back every drop or you’ll get a mouthful of the fine grounds at the bottom of the cup. If this isn’t your taste then try a foaming iced café frappé instead.

Away from the main squares and down the side streets, you’ll find a different kind of café which may have just a few tables in front of a narrow bar or pastry shop. These are the kind of bars where you’ll find the older locals hanging out, or where you’d go to buy your pastries or ice creams. Personally I like this kind of non-touristy place better, as you watch the bustle of everyday life down the side streets.

Sweet pastries or Glika in Zante town

You may find a shop specialising in glika, those super sweet pastries made with flaky pastry and nuts, dripping with honey or syrup. These are the natural accompaniment to that super-strong Greek coffee which will offset the sweetness. Baklava is the one everyone knows about, but you should be able to choose from a selection under the counter. Sometimes, this sort of shop will also sell the traditional cheese pies or Tiropita made of puff pastry and local soft cheese, if you’re looking for a savoury snack on the move. You’ll also find the cake shops with a few tables selling all those colourful creamy cakes, and often ice creams too. Again you can sit at one of their tables inside or out and enjoy one of their cakes with a coffee.

Creamy cakes in Zante town

The Greeks are not great pudding makers at home, and they would normally buy these creamy cakes or the sweet glika to take home and serve in the afternoon, when guests come to call. On saints’ days and name days, a Greek family will keep open house for friends and family who drop by. A name day is the feast day of the saint who shares your name and tends to be like a communal birthday, as many people will share the same name, and be celebrating on the same day.

Coffee and cakes in Zante town

There’s always so much to do on holiday, but sometimes you see more by sitting still. What’s your favourite way to enjoy a coffee when travelling?

All photos by Heatheronhertravels on Flickr

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Posted in Authentic travel, Budget options, Cuisine, Culture, Greece, Restaurants, Travel tips by Heather Cowper | 4 Comments »

Bristol is one of the top 10 cities to visit in 2009

Thursday, January 8th, 2009Heather Cowper

It’s official, Bristol is one of the top 10 cities to visit in 2009, according to guide book publisher, Dorling Kindersley. I have lived in Bristol for the last 15 years, and I always knew that it was not only a fantastic place to live, but a great destination for a city break. It’s also a good jumping off point for exploring the west of England, south into Somerset, Devon and Cornwall, and westwards into Wales.

Here are some of the things that make Bristol special;

Arnolfini Art Gallery in the harbourside area of Bristol

The harbourside area
The old port of Bristol, which was once the industrial and trading hub, has been cleaned up over the years to make a pleasant centre for leisure. There are many bars and restaurants in this area, you can visit the At-Bristol Science complex and relax in the Millenium square with its statues and water features. Sample some modern art in the Arnolfini art gallery, walk down to the SS Great Britain or take one of the ferries that ply up and down the harbour.

Clifton Village
This is the Georgian old village of Bristol, with beautiful architecture and plenty of individual boutiques, cafes and restaurants. Take a stroll on the landmark Clifton Suspension Bridge with the Avon Gorge below or take in the view from the terrace bar of the Avon Gorge Hotel.


Avon Gorge and Clifton Suspension Bridge

Museums and Art Galleries
On Park St there are three excellent free museums. The Bristol City Museum is just what you’d hope from a Victorian city museum, from gypsy caravans to Egyptian Mummies and excellent art and photography exhibitions throughout the year (free). The Georgian House was built in the 1790s for a wealthy Bristol Merchant and has been preserved to show how a family of that period would have lived. (free) Red Lodge was built in the 1580s and takes you back in time with it’s Tudor pannelled rooms and knot garden (free). The British Empire and Commonwealth Museum, by Temple Meads Station tells the story of Britain’s Empire, especially Bristol’s association with the Slave Trade. In the Harbour area, families will enjoy the At-Bristol hands on Science Centre and if modern art is your thing, visit the Arnolfini gallery with ever changing exhibitions that are on the cutting edge of the art scene (free).


The Georgian House in Bristol

Fantastic eating and drinking
You won’t be going hungry in Bristol, with many bars, pubs and restaurants all over the city. These are some of my favourite eating haunts
Harbourside – Watershed café for coffee, Bordeaux Quay for a more upscale experience, the Olive shed for mediterranean style  food & tapas.
Park St – Bristol Guild café for soup and salads, Goldbrick House for stylish eating and cocktails, Rocatillos for a family diner with the best milk shakes in Bristol.
Corn St – St Nicholas Market has many different vendors of hot food from Indian, Moroccan, Jamaican to cakes & coffee to eat in or take away. For a cosy restaurant & bar try the Rummer in the Market area.
Clifton Village – Bar Chocolat is where I stop for a restoring hot chocolate, Fishers is a fish restaurant that has an excellent budget menu and the Arch House Deli is a gourmet paradise which also has a small cafe at the back to eat in.


Cafe at Goldbrick House on Park St

Shopping
The Cabot Circus development has recently opened and covers all tastes from the upscale Harvey Nichols to the High St chains. Park St, leading up the hill from the Harbourside area has plenty of trendy clothes shops as it’s close to the University. Clifton Village is the place for more individual boutiques and gift shops and you’ll find some quirky and original artistic offerings in the area around Christmas steps and Perry Rd.

For more ideas and information check out the Visit Bristol Website

All photos by Heather on her travels

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Posted in Cuisine, Culture, Destination guides, England, Restaurants, Short breaks, United Kingdom by Heather Cowper | 7 Comments »

East Lothian Food & Drink Festival 26 – 28 September 2008

Sunday, August 17th, 2008Karen Bryan

East Lothian, located east of Edinburgh will be hosting the 8th annual Food & Drink Festival from 26 – 28 September 2008. Various events are being held to showcase the quality.local produce.

Haddington, East Lothian

Haddington, East Lothian

The weekend kicks off with a Ceilidh with supper a the Glenkinchie Distillery on the evening of 26 September. On the morning of the 27 September there are cookery demonstrations at the Farmers Market in Haddington. The Slow Food Summer Fair is in North Berwick on 28 September from 11.30 – 15.30.

North Berwick harbour

North Berwick harbour

There a couple of events for kids. On 27 September it’s Kids Food Fun Day at North Berwick from 11.30 – 15.30 and the “Kids in the Kitchen” is part of the Royal Scots Family Day at Musselburgh racecourse on 28 September.

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Posted in Children, Cuisine, Day trips, Events, Festivals, Scotland by Karen Bryan | 2 Comments »

Gourmet Glasgow – no deep fried Mars Bars on menu

Sunday, August 3rd, 2008Karen Bryan

Gourmet Glasgow launches tomorrow Monday 4 August 2008 and runs until 31 August. During this period you can enjoy £15 per head dining deals at some of Glasgow’s best restaurants. If you book online you’ll also receive a free dram of Auchentoshan Single Malt Scotch Whisky. There are also event nights such as the Buccleuch Beef Night, Shellfish Evening and Dine around France.

Deep fried Mars Bar

Deep fried Mars Bar

Glasgow is keen to ditch the image of fish suppers and deep fried Mars Bars washed down with Irn Bru to project a more sophisticated culinary image.

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Posted in Cuisine, Scotland by Karen Bryan | 2 Comments »

Miedzychod, a Polish Delight

Thursday, July 10th, 2008Suchi
Poland is literally a land o’ lakes, and one of the best ways to see this for yourself is on a road trip through the winding highways and byways of the eastern European nation. The roads are not as developed as in neighboring Germany for example, so try to drive before dark, and be prepared for some defensive driving.

Plenty of small towns and villages dot the landscape, and one charming spot in particular, about one hour from the good-sized city of Poznan (which is, by the way, earmarked by UNESCO) is called Miedzychod—a town of barely 1,000 people, but at least 3 large lakes and several pastry shops to die for. Don’t expect fine dining and hot night clubs here (or English menus!), but you will pass a smattering of pubs and cafes that offer you a rather tasty slice of the local cuisine and culture.


One of Miedzychod’s several lakes, copyright suchi

If you’re feeling adventurous, turn off the little main road into the forest, where you might happen upon abandoned German graves, and also have a chance to hunt for mushrooms—one of eastern Europe’s most cherished pastimes.


Wooden Man, copyright suchi

Spend the night in Hotel Neptune (this and other hotels at Travel to Poland), which stays true to its name with its lakeshore location, and ask for a lake view room. The hotel’s restaurant probably had its heyday a couple decades ago, but even when I visited, the back room was curtained off for an audibly festive anniversary party, Polish-style. Speaking of Polish style, don’t be shy to ask the waitress for a glass of Zubrowka, a sweet grass-infused vodka, mixed with apple juice, a tried and true tradition. You can also pick up a few bottles of this unique drink at the local supermarket.

If you happen to be here on a Saturday morning, head down to the weekly town bazaar to bargain for a pair of cozy house slippers, a stylish beret or locally produced honey in several delicious varieties. The jar label features the town’s name on it, making for a great keepsake.

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Posted in Accommodation, Cuisine, Culture, Poland by Suchi | No Comments »

Guest Post – Barcelona, getting off the beaten track

Wednesday, July 9th, 2008Karen Bryan

In this guest post Diana Perez, a Spanish journalist shows us how to get off the beaten track in Barcelona.

“Barcelona is one of the most popular tourist city destinations in the world. Its streets are always full of people, regardless of the season. It is the favourite holiday destination for most tourists: famous because of its good weather, its delicious Mediterranean food and its spectacular architecture – cradle of artists as important as Gaudí. But Barcelona is much more than a simple tourist city. Probably, most of you already know the typical and always crowded tourist streets, monuments, clubs, restaurants, shops or museums. But, what about `the other´ Barcelona? There is another city behind this scene: an alternative, amazing city that hosts a reach subculture. Art, music, cinema, gastronomy, and a whole world to discover!


Barceloneta by Pierre Phaneuf

Other neighbourhoods

Let’s begin with an alternative tour among the city. Everybody knows Ciutat Vella (Old Town),that includes El Barri Gòtic, El Raval and El Borne, and forms the monumental center of Barcelona. But moving away from the crowds around El Born and the Gòtic Quarter and heading down to Barceloneta, we find an old fishing village close to the harbour. It’s less crowded and feels more authentic than other parts of the city. The area was developed on a grid pattern and the narrow streets hanging with washing give it a certain air of Naples. There are lots of restaurants, specialist in seafood.

Poble Sec is a charming neighbourhood located between El Raval and Montjuic. Despite its excellent restaurants, nightlife and central location, this neighborhood is off the radar for most Barcelona visitors.

In guidebooks, Poble Sec is usually lumped in with the gardens, museums and Olympic constructions of Montjuic – if it’s even mentioned at all. But with low-key hotels and apartments available to rent, Poble Sec is a wonderful place to visit and to stay in Barcelona. It has ethnically diverse, quiet streets, real local flavour and a wide variety of dining and nightlife options.


Sarrià is a gorgeous, 1,000-year-old village. It has become a haven for petit bourgeois merchants, writers, and artists, as well as a home for many Barcelona schools occupying what were once summer mansions for the city’s commercial leaders. It’s a must to do a stop in Bar Tomás, famous for its patatas bravas (potatoes with a sauce of pounded garlic and olive oil).


Keepin’ it real in Sarria by jpvarga

Good food, better restaurants

Flash Flash (C. La Granada del Penedès, 25) was inaugurated in 1970, and has become an essential reference point. Hamburgers, steaks salads, and over 70 types of tortillas are served up in a pop-art setting of funky black-and-white murals and white leather banquettes. It’s completely authentic!

Misaki (C. Aribau, 40) is a small Japanese restaurant. It offers a very large variety of dishes and regional specialities in a familiar, cozy space. Probably, it is one of the best Asian food restaurants in Barcelona, even you will not find it in any restaurants guides. Do not expect to find a super-modern local. This is a family, small restaurant managed by Misaki, where you’ll eat quality Japanese food. Delicious!

L´Hortet (C. Pintor Fortuny, 32) is the best vegetarian restaurant and enough of a reason to travel to Barcelona! For less than 10 euros you can have a nice three course menu. Vegan vegetarian friendly place that offers a good value set menu at lunch time. Don’t miss it!

7Portes (Pg. Isabel II, 14) it is one the most classic of Barcelona’s eating-places. Here you can enjoy the finest Catalan cooking in an intimate setting or in one of the spacious banquet halls, accompanied by Spain’s best wines and “cavas” (sparking wines) from the well-stocked cellar.

Gaudi, off the beaten track


Gaudi, Barcelona

Gaudi and Barcelona by colros

Gaudi’s work is admired by architects around the World as being one of the most unique and distinctive architectural styles. His works are all over Barcelona. There are some world famous Gaudi´s builds like Parc Güell, Palau Güell, Sagrada Familia, Pedrera or Casa Batlló that give Barcelona a special magic. But there are some of Gaudi´s lesser-known, beautiful contributions that you shouldn’t miss:
The Gigantic fountain in Parc de la Cuitadella
The Three Graces Fountain in Placa Reial
The amazing wrought-iron embellished street lamps that line the streets are 125-year-old originals in the heart of the city. In Plaza Reial, by Las Ramblas, Passeig de Gracia and the old port entrance.

More than culture: more music, more art, more cinemas…

MauMau: (C. Fontrodona, 33) this cultural centre and lounge club built into an old warehouse is discreetly hidden away in a quiet backstreet. It’s a unique space, ideal for all kinds of presentations and projections: art, theater, lectures and other activitie. Since May 2002, Maumau runs a Funk, Soul, HipHop & Rare Groove session, weekly at dance venue Apolo. There is an interesting weekly agenda with the best of alternative culture in Barcelona!

Antisonar: Anti-Sonar is the alternative music party to Sonar, which runs in Barcelona at the same time. It’s totally free. Whereas Sonar attracts a moneyed, trendy, international crowd, Anti-Sonar is an anarchic impromptu festival for the scruffier inhabitants of Barcelona who can’t afford or simply resent the festival and the hordes of techno tourists that take over the city for the weekend. Don’t expect any big name DJs. Expect unrelenting hard techno, and bring your own water, beer, absinthe, and sun cream, as you’ll be dancing through into the morning. Usually located on the outskirts of the city near to the Sonar by Night festival site, follow the crowds or ask around.

Cinema Maldà: (C. del Pi, 5) located in the middle of Ciutat Vella’s neighbourhood, this special cinema projects Bollywood’s movies in original version and independent movies. This spring, cinema Maldà, now known as the Maldà Arts Forum, expanded it programming and artistic offer to include other arts such as music, theatre, performance, literature or journalism. It is a must for all film fans. On top of providing high-quality cinema, Maldà allows its visitors to enjoy two films (run consecutively) for the price of one.

There are infinity proposals to enjoy of the other Barcelona: the city that many tourists and even Catalan people do not know. Look for the best alternative leisure and cultural offers of the city in `La Butxaca´, a very special leisure guide of Barcelona (it’s very difficult to find). And now, have a great and different time in this original city.”

Diana recommends Apartments in Barcelona for your stay in Barcelona.

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Posted in Architecture, Cuisine, Culture, Destination guides, Guest post, Spain by Karen Bryan | No Comments »

Porridge as you’ve never known it.

Monday, October 8th, 2007Karen Bryan

The 14th Annual Golden Spurtle World Porridge Making Championship took place in the Scottish Highlands yesterday. Being an exiled Scot, albeit it three miles over the Border in England, my attention was drawn to this. Now I do like to eat porridge for my breakfast some mornings but I have to admit it’s the porridge oats version cooked in the microwave, rather than the traditional recipe made with oatmeal.


The overall winner Maria Soep

The contest winner, Maria Soep, who runs a B&B in Argyllshire, triumphed against several professional chefs.


Speciality winner, Al Beaton

The Speciality winner’s concoction featured stewed apples, raisins and cinnamon topped with cream. Other entries included seafood porridge and white chocolate porridge with stewed fruit and whisky cream. The mind boggles, I think I’ll stick to my plain quick cook oat porridge served with sugar and full fat milk.

Posted in Cuisine, Scotland by Karen Bryan | 1 Comment »

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