The Konoba is a traditional Croatian tavern. It comes with rustic features like stone walls (with picture frames of Croatian heroes and Adriatic creatures), wooden tables (simple, chunky and sturdy looking, usually with a blue or red chequered tablecloth), a shaded courtyard with tables under giant trees, an open-hearth fireplace, and hidden from view, a cool, delicious cellar.

The menu is limited but rich in local flavour and easy on the wallet. The ingredients are fresh and sourced from the surrounding region, if not from the backyard, and everything is freshly prepared by the inn-owners, from the olive oil to the wine and bread on offer.

The experience is refreshing too. Chances are you’ll share conversations and receive recommendation from friendly inn-owners. Feel free to ask questions and learn more about the recipes and region. At the end of the meal, don’t be surprised to receive an invitation to share some rakija, a fruit-herb brandy, with the regulars. These shots are not only delicious, but they also double up as digestives.

Konobas grace every corner of the country and are very easy to find. If you’re looking to get away from the pizzas and sandwiches, in favour of something richer and more traditional, a Croatia konoba is where you need to be.

On of the activities that we particularly enjoyed as a family was Istria cycling on the paths that ran beside the sea past the different swimming spots and through the pine forests to the local town of Porec. Although we were there in August, when the weather was at its hottest, cycling in the shade under those pine tree as still very pleasant, especially as we could jump off at almost any point and take a cooling dip.

I noticed that there were many trails that also took you inland from Porec through olive groves and vineyards and past small local farms where you might try the local cheeses. Maps of these trails were available in the hotel and cycle shops and if we’d had more time, I would have loved to have taken a picnic and gone out for a full day, especially if we’d been there in the spring or early autumn when the truffle season or grape picking might be in full swing.

My Europe rravel tip is to plan your cycling day out at the Istria-Bike website with details of different bike trails including the topography of each trail, the highlights you can see along the route and even place to stay nearby. There are details of hotels and other accommodation that welcome cyclists and will provide extra services for you as well as bike races and leisure events for the cycling enthusiast. Even if you’re not a hardened sports fanatic, hiring a bike for a day and getting out into the countryside, or riding along the coast as we did, is a wonderful way to enjoy the natural beauty of Istria.

Photos by Heather on her travels on Flickr

Location

Lovran stretches along the Rivera, about 6km away from Opatija. The town gets its name from the evergreen laurel trees that surround the town, along with rich oaks and chestnuts.

History

The heart of Lovran retains its medieval features with stone walls and houses wrapped around a 14^th century church and bell tower. Many of these homes and villas were once owned by Austro-Hungarian aristocrats, as part of their winter escape. Today, post restoration, they have been converted into guesthouses and private tourist accommodations.

Culture

Lovran is always in the midst of a festival – a great excuse for visitors to celebrate with and like locals. You can dance the day away to traditional beats and spend the nights on local delicacies and ales. Lovran’s two most popular festivals are the Carnival (held in January-February every year) and the Marunada (held in autumn). Be sure to check local listings before a visit.

Activities

Lovran is linked to the 12 km long Lungomare, the Rivera’s seaside promenade. It is a popular spot for seaside walks and jogs. And then there are Lovran’s pebbled beaches. Here you can lounge around and catch a tan or take part in a number of water based activities. These include fishing, rafting and canoeing. Lovran is also known for its hiking and cycling trails.

Day Trips

Once you’ve covered Lovran, explore the other towns along the Opatija Riviera, including the fishing village of Volosko and the bustling Opatija Town. Lovran also makes an ideal base for those planning to explore Croatia’s Kvarner and Istria regions – you can easily travel to the Islands of Losinj and Cres from Lovran, as well as to bigger Istrian destinations like Rovinj and Pula.

All in all, Lovran is a great base for a Croatia holiday, one of my Europe travel tips for Croatia destinations. Have you visit Lovran?

Zagreb Centre – This is the heart of the city, and it runs on caffeine. From Zagreb’s Main Square, the Dolac Market roof, to the surrounding Flower Square, there are more cafes here than days in the month. The cafes are always busy, even on weekdays, but come Saturday and it’s pretty hard to find a free spot.

Tkalciceva – Along this stone paved, narrow street, cafes line up to serve eager coffee drinkers. Its popularity isn’t surprising as it offers the perfect set up – colourful baroque architecture, ringing church bells in the background, and beautiful people constantly streaming by; this is Zagreb over coffee.

Old Town – How about coffee with a dose of history? That’s what you get around Zagreb’s historic core. Surrounded by ancient landmarks – churches, fortified towers, museums and galleries, you can share your coffee with some of the city’s favourite myths and legends.

Sljeme – Sljeme is the highest peak on Zagreb’s Mount Medvednica. It offers a number of activities like hiking trails and ski slopes as wells as restaurants and cafes. You can reach the peak by cable car (if it’s in service), hiking, cycling or driving up. Once you’re up there, treat yourself to a hot cup of coffee in the forest, a great escape from the city.

Jarun – Jarun is Zagreb’s answer to the coast and a popular sports and recreation centre. With its two artificial lakes and a pebbled beach, Jarun is the place for water sports, rollerblading, running, and all things sporty. In addition, on warm days you’ll spot local sunbathing and catching up over coffee along the edge of the lakes.

Park Maksimir – Maksimir is Zagreb’s largest green space. An 18^th century sanctuary for plants and wildlife, Maksimir makes for a fantastic coffee break. Set amidst oak and pine trees with five lakes in between, this is the place to open your favourite paperback and enjoy it over a hot cup of coffee, as a rag tag army of squirrels run around.

Do you have a favourite Zagreb cafe?

One of my favourite stops in Hvar is the Fortress Sanjola. Not only does it open up a chapter of the island’s history to tourists, it also throws up some of the most stunning views of Hvar.

The fortress sits on a hill overlooking the Hvar marina. The current structure is built on the site of a medieval fort and dates back to the 16^th century. It was commissioned after the old fort was damage in a powerful gun-powder explosion. Where the fortress once protected the locals against invading armies (the Turks), today it makes for a prominent tourist landmark.

The best way to get to the fortress is to walk up. The  trail starts from the old town right up to the fortress. The path is narrow and the climb is steep; it can prove to be a fair bit of exercise. The other option is to bike (or hire a taxi) your way up. I’d suggest walking up, if you’re up to it. The walk helps you enjoy a variety of local flora and great views.

After paying a small entrance fee, you can explore the complex at your own pace. From the old walls tacked with cannons, the collection of medieval pottery and ceramics, to ancient prison cells (the term dungeons might be more appropriate). But the highlight of a trip to the fortress is the views it throws up. Stand at the observation decks or find a comfortable seat at the fortress cafe and take in the views.

Be sure to stay past sunset. Watching the island all lit up from this vantage point is a special experience.

Roasted Chestnuts – Nothing warms the day like the aroma of roasting chestnuts. At the beginning of autumn and through winter, chestnut stands spring up along the squares and street corners; the vendor’s fingertips stain darker with every order, the air smells delicious.

Kolač – Kolač covers the large territory between pastries and cakes –it includes everything from dessert rolls, with walnuts and chocolate, to traditional dessert preparations, with ingredients like coconut, to regular tortes and cakes.

Hot Wine – But my favourite by a mile is a cup of Hot Wine or Kuhano Vino. Hot wine is prepared by cooking red wine with water, and flavouring it with ingredients like sugar, cloves and cinnamon, a dash or orange juice, (maybe lemon) and honey. It’s what I call a cup full of winter warmth.

How about you? What winter treats do you enjoy the best?

The countdown to Christmas begins on Advent Sunday. The streets are lined with Christmas lights (chandeliers, hearts and snowflakes are the local favourites) and decoration. Store fronts get a festive makeover. On the Main Square, Trg Ban Jelačić, the big Christmas tree is placed and lit, and a giant festive wreath is draped around the fountain there.

As Christmas approaches, make-shift stalls and tents are set up on and around the main square. Here you’ll find everything from colourful clay angels, local handicrafts to Christmas decorations and greeting cards; from food items like sausages and coffee to traditional Christmas specialities. Chances are you won’t walk away empty handed.

A number of cultural events also take place on the square during this time, from choir groups and workshops to Santa himself. Kids are in for an added treat as the electric blue toy train, dressed up in Christmas colours, makes frequent rounds (the train leaves every half hour from the Main Square); a great activity for parents and kids to bond over in the city.

The market offers the perfect opportunity to finish Christmas shopping, catch up with friends over food and drink, or simply take a festive stroll.

Volosko is within walking distance from the town of Opatija; you can either set up camp there or stay in Volosko itself. There are a number of hotels and apartments in the area, though it is best to book ahead – places may be full during summer and may shut down for renovations during winter.

Explore the quiet village – walk around the crowded-together stone homes along narrow stone streets. There’s barely enough space to stretch out your hands, and yet an endless number of cars stand parked on either side!

At the heart of Volosko is the small pier, Mandrac. A number of fishing boats are docked here. In the summer, you’ll spot bigger, flashier vessels along with sailing enthusiasts and beach bums lounging on the pebbled beaches. You’ll also see a number of tourists (all year round) on the walkway along the water; this promenade stretches up to Opatija and extends all the way down to the Riviera.

But the one thing to do here is eat! The village has a strong fishing tradition and it makes for some of the best seafood restaurants in the country – from small, traditional fares (follow the Ribarnica signs) to high-end culinary experiences (Plavi Podrum, Le Mandrac and Amfora, all of which are on the water).

Find one that fits the bill and Indulge in grilled fish (usually served with Swiss chard, known locally as blitva), oysters, squid, scallops and shrimps, and local white wine; in my book, this is the perfect way to get rid of the winter blues.

When it comes to towns with unromantic names, I think the Croatian coastal town of Biograd has got to be in the top ten. In fact, on a camping trip through Croatia I decided to spend a night in Biograd purely on the strength of this unattractive name, and fortunately found the town to be at least a little more attractive than it sounded.

In fact, Biograd, not far from Zadar, has been a tourist resort since way back in the 1920s and the name actually translates to “white city”, which sounds a little better. I stayed at a campground a short walk from the beach – there are many to choose from, along with a bunch of hotels. Pretty much all of the activity in Biograd, especially in the touristy summer, takes place along the pebbled beachfront. Personally, I’ve never got used to pebbled beaches (I’m Australian, remember, and we have great beaches) but lots of people assured me the pebbles mean the water is clearer, and this did seem to be true in Biograd.

If anyone’s been to Biograd in the last year or so, I’d love to know if my favourite cafe is still there. Close to the water, it was a big restaurant area filled with dozens of comfortable purple sofas, and sprawling on them while eating a snack or having a drink was perfect. If you see it, I definitely recommend it – the sofas are much more comfortable than the beach pebbles.

Tvrđa (pronounced Tvar-ja) forms the town’s historic core. It is an ancient defence complex that was built by the Habsburgs after they drove out the Ottomans. This military base was built on the site of the then existing town centre. Reconstruction was a long drawn process. It involved moving all the standing institutions to another location (most of them were shifted to the present day Gornji Grad, or Upper Town), and constructing an elaborate military compound that comprised of military offices, barracks, watch posts, warehouses, monasteries and churches. The complex was completed in 1721.

While much of the fortification walls are gone, the heart of Tvrđa remains robust. The many military facilities though have made way for a more cultural and academic outlook. There are a number of galleries and museums worth visiting here, the most prominent of which is the Museum of Slavonia. Here, you can uncover the history of the region, from lost Roman artefacts fished out of the River Drava, to old Turkish cannons, carefully restored (as seen in the picture above).

Tvrđa is also the local entertainment getaway. From cafes, restaurants, pubs and clubs, you’ll be spoilt for choice.  However as you walk around the cobblestoned streets, you’re bound to see bullet marked walls, remnants from homeland war that took place in the early 90s. Some Baroque structures are terribly ruined; others have been re-plastered and renovated.

Like I mentioned before, most of the old fort walls are long gone as are the town gates. Only one gate, the Water Gate, remains. Follow it out of the complex, past the graffiti – pop culture slogans and love proclamations, and towards the banks of the river Drava.