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Rovinj is a beautiful little town on Croatia’s Istrian coast, and at its heart is the Church of Saint Euphemia, along with its Venetian bell tower. The church sits on a hilltop overlooking the town.
The walk uphill is as charming as the Church itself: narrow walkways weave past the open sea and along old Venetian homes, allowing you to peep into busy courtyards and open windows.
The church was built in 1736 on the site of an older, smaller church and is dedicated to Saint Euphemia. The three-nave church holds his tomb, a Roman Sarcophagus from the 6th century. Legend has it that the marble coffin magically appeared on the Rovinj shoreline. Since then it has become a much sought after shrine.
Once you’ve explore the church and the artworks it holds, take on the church’s bell tower. Built between 1654 and 1680, the tower is modelled on the St. Mark’s bell tower in Venice. For a small sum of 10 Kuna you can climb the 60 meter bell tower. Its rickety wooden stairs lead to some of the most spectacular views of the town.
On top of the bell tower stands St. Euphemia himself. When the wind is about, you can see him turning round and round in its direction.
One of my favourite spots in Zagreb is the Old Town. It’s not as spectacular as the Old Town of Dubrovnik nor as flashy as the one in Split, but it does carry itself with a certain elegance that suits its status as the address of the Croatian Parliament.
Along these narrow stone paved alleys, you’ll find monument after monument and landmark after landmark. It offers something for everyone – from architectural landmarks and historic churches to a variety of museums, galleries and boutiques.
The most prominent figure here is the 13th century St. Mark’s Church, the face of Zagreb on all tourist brochures. Its unique titled roof with the city coat of arms stands out against the pastel shades of the area. The other points of interest include the Stone gate. This is the only surviving town gate, which is better known for its Miriam shrine. Legend has it that when a fire consumed the area in 1731, it destroyed everything save a painting of the Virgin Mary. They say if you light a candle here your wishes come true.
And then there is the medieval Lotrscak tower. It was built in the 13th century to fortify the town’s defences. For years a cannon has been fired from the tower at noon. You can climb the tower to catch a glimpse of the cannon and the city.
A great way to cap off any visit to the Old Town is to head down the beautiful Strossmayer Promenade. It runs along the old city walls and offers the most spectacular views of the city.
One of my favourite weekend stops is the little mill village of Rastoke. A thirty minute drive from Zagreb, it stands between the city and the Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Rastoke sits along the waterfalls at the confluence of the Korana and Slunjčica rivers. It often answers to the moniker of ‘Small Plitivice’ and like the Lakes it too is built on a limestone barrier.
The village is known for its 18th century flour mills, traditional homes, cafes and quaint restaurants. It offers visitors simple delights like a pleasant walk around the village, a biking trail, and coffee by the waterfall. Everywhere you go the soft, rhythmic murmur of flowing water follows. It has an incredibly relaxing effect on the mind.
The walkways and wooden bridges around Rastoke lead up to old, but functional, mills; you can buy fresh corn bread and flour even today. The rich, warm aromas from the mills waft around the village and entice you into a healthy appetite. For this I recommend heading to the picnic tables and ordering a plate of the succulent pork chops on offer.
The homes here are constructed based on traditional designs. They are built on two levels – the ground level is constructed from stone, to protect the house from water and the upper floors are built from wood; the construction here is more intricate, allowing for artistic flair. Some these homes double up as guest houses.
It’s hard to believe now but during the Balkan war, Rastoke sustained great damage. The area was under attack. The waterfalls were loaded with explosives and the homes were burnt down. Since then the area has undergone a successful restoration program.
The village enjoy great natural advantage: two swirling rivers, waterfalls and the greenery ensure that bikers, hikers, anglers and rafter all find a corner here, as do coffee drinkers like me.
If you happen to be in Zagreb and have a day to spare, be sure to visit the lovely Trakoscan Castle. Located about an hour’s drive from the city, this 13th century structure was originally a small part of the Zagorje principality defence fortification. And while little is known of the original fortification, the castle rose, both in size and prominence over the years. Several influential, aristocratic families have claimed ownership at one time or the other; each family added and accessorized to the original structure leading to the form we see today.
Sitting on a hilltop, Trakoscan’s distinct yellow-white walls and red turrets are visible from a distance. Peeping out from a cover of rich green, it makes for quite a picture. The view is equally spectacular from the top. Along the twisting gravel walking path that leads to the castle gates, you can admire the well manicured landscape below, complete with an artificial lake and a fairytale chapel.
The castle has four levels, including the dungeons. Converted into a museum in 1953, it allows for authentic period exhibits – a small courtyard, an equipped kitchen, dining and entertaining halls, bedrooms, a knight’s room (with a fascinating collection of weapons from the 15-19th century), a lavish music parlour and even a hunting room. The rooms are fully furnished. You’ll come across some amazing antique furniture here. The rooms are also adorned with family portraits, memorabilia and the elaborate family coat-of-arms; so neat is the set up, that you can’t shake the feeling that someone still lives here.
The little town of Koprivnica is just an hour’s drive from the Croatian capital, Zagreb. While it is better known as the centre of Croatian naïve art, it is also home to a quirky open air bicycle museum.
Koprivnica prides itself as a cyclist’s town; I saw a number of cycles parked lazily near cafes, and even more being raced across the main park and on the town streets. And in an effort to preserve and further promote this tradition, the Old Timer Club Biciklin of Koprivnica came up with the novel idea of an open air bicycle museum. They aim to promote cycling, through this prominent display, not just as a recreational activity but as an effective means of modern, green transportation.
The display titled “From Leonardo da Vinci till Today” includes replicas of seven models (and one artistic monument), each from a different era. As the title suggests, this display aims to trace the journey of the humble cycle from the times (and designs) of Leonardo da Vinci to its modern avatar.
The replicas stand on plots close to the town’s main square. They follow what used to be a popular cycling route in the 1950s. Where once cyclists raced one another frantically, today visitors amble along, with camera in hand.
Not only is this a great initiative to a cleaner and healthier way of life, this quirky display also ensures tourists make their way around the town, taking in sites they may otherwise have skipped.
If you love the delights of Italy such as wonderful food and wine, stunning Adriatic coast with beautiful seaside towns, hilltop villages surrounded by green rolling hills, historic sites and spa treatments, but are thinking twice about shelling out the high euro prices in Italy, I have a solution for you. Visit Istria in Croatia and you can savour the delights of Italy at real value for money prices. I love Italy but have found it pretty expensive there on my recent trips, so when I visited Istria I was really impressed by what was on offer at much lower prices than in Italy.
Rovinj, Istria, Croatia
Croatia has not yet adopted the Euro, using the Kuna, with a currrent exchange rate of around 8.4 Kuna to the UK pound(or 5.6 kuna to the dollar/7.4 kuna to the euro). According to a Guardian article about falling holiday prices in Europe published on 2 May 2009, the price for a holiday basket of goods including drinks, a meal for two and suncream costs £64.76 in Croatia and £77.05 in Italy, representing a saving of around 15% in Croatia.
Istria is a peninsula on the Adriatic coast, a two hour drive south of Trieste. Istria has been part of the Republic of Venice, The Holy Roman Empire, The Hapsburg Empire, Italy and Yugoslavia before becoming part of Croatia after the 1990s war in Yugoslavia. Italian is the second language in Istria and all signs are in Croatian and Italian.
Ryanair fly to Pula in Istria three times a week from London Stansted, Croatia Airlines also fly to Pula from London. You could also fly into Trieste in Italy, which would then require a two hour drive south to Istria through Slovenia.
Istrian Food
Istria is carving a name for itself as a gourmet destination. Starting from around £30 per person you can have a gourment meal with wine.
I particulary liked Konoba (Taverna) Batelina on the outskirts of Pula where the fish starters were served raw, Sushi style. It was a real family affair with Dad the fisherman, Mum the cook and their son filetting the fish by our table.
The view from Restaurant Blu is so perfect over the sea with the silhouette of Rovinj on the horizon. They serve the most delicious herby flat bread with meals.
Sole wrapped in courgette, monkfish and squid fritter served at Blu
At Konoba Astarea most of the food is cooked on the open fire. They serve great seafood and the most tender veal I have ever eaten.
The open fire at Konoba Astarea
There is great food for all budgets as I saw fish menus in restaurants in Rovinj starting at £5.
Truffles are big in Istria, the world’s largest truffle as recorded in the Guniness Book of Records is replicated in the Zigante truffle shop in Livade. Truffles are often served thinly sliced over freshly made pasta.
The Zigante truffle shop in Livade
The local proscuitto ham, known as prsut, is dried rather than smoked. Personally I preferred this to the smoked proscuitto that I’d tasted previously.
Olive oil production has also moved upmarket with the emphasis on quality rather than quantity and the emergence of brands such as Chiavalon with its attractive yet practical packaging. There’s an Olive Oil Route, so you can visit several producers and taste their oil.
Istrian Wine
Wine tourism is also growing in popularity in Istria. Many Istrian wineries have made the decision to concentrate on high end production. There’s now an annual Vinistra exhibition. Most restaurants serve a selection of Istrian wines. At present most of the wine is for domestic consumption, although I’m sure quite a bit is exported by tourists. You can arrange wine tasting sessions and visits to producers such as Matosevic Wines and Poletti Wines by following the Istria Wine Roads. As I don’t drink alcohol, I can’t comment on the Istrian wines.
Istrian Adriatic Coast
My favourite coastal town is Rovinj, built by Venetians. As you approach Rovinj it looks as through the coloured houses have risen from the sea. Although there is a working harbour the water is so clear.
One of the highlights of my trip to Istria was the Coliseum in Pula, it was very well preserved and pretty awesome.
There’s also a Roman temple and triumphal arch in Pula. In the Brijuni Islands there are several Roman ruins.
Istrian Hilltop Villages
Groznjan is a delighful hilltop village which now has a reputation as an colony for artists.
Motovun is best known as the host of an annual Film Festival. You can sit at a cafe right by the village walls and admire the surrounding countryside with prices such as £1.50 for a toastie.
Istrian Spa and Wellness Centres
Istarske Toplice, the most well known therapeutic bath in Istria lies in the forest near Motovun. Many hotels have their own Spa and Wellness Centres. I had my initiation to spa treatment in Istria at the Kastel Hotel in Motovun, where a 30 minute classic massage costs under £20.
The negatives
The only negative aspects are related to transport. If you don’t live in the south east of England there no direct flights to Istria. I live in the north east of England and I had to fly from Edinburgh to Venice via London and then have a two and half hour drive to Istria. Car hire in Istria is as expensive as in Italy. Also, if you want to fully explore the region and visit locations such as the hilltop villages Motovun and Gronzjan and the wineries and olive producers, you’ll really need your own transport, so driving down from Trieste or even Venice isn’t so much of an issue.
Disclosure
I visited Istria 20 – 24 April 2009 as a guest of the Istrian Tourist Board on a travel bloggers press trip. The agreement was that I would write at least three posts for the Europe a la Carte Blog about Istria but there would be no editorial control and I would write honestly and in my own style.
Conclusion
I think I have demonstrated that Istria really can allow you to enjoy the culinary, scenic, historic and spa delights of Italy at credit crunch busting prices with a unique Istrian flavour.
Have you visited Istria, do you think it compares favourably with Italy in terms of price and quality for travellers?
One of the most beautiful spots that I visited during my trip to Istria in Croatia was the Limski Fjord, close to the town of Rovinj. It’s also know as the Limski Kanal, Lim Fjrod or the Lim Channel.
Technically it’s not a fjord as the landform was not created by the movement of a glacier but the flow of the River Pazincica. However it looks enough like a fjord to have been used as the location for the shooting of the 1964 Viking adventure movie, “The Long Ships“.
There are many stalls there selling local produce and a restuarant with great views. It must get pretty busy there during high season and weekends so try to visit at a quiet time to avoid the crowds to fully appreciate the natural beauty of the Limski Fjord.
I’d read about the Istrian city of Pula on the Europe a la Carte blog in Jason Green’s post “The other side of Croatia – Pula“. Here’s my pictorial tour of Pula taken during my visit to Istria in April 2009.
The Coliseum in Pula is very well preserved and pretty impressive. It’s the venue for many outdoor concerts.
The Roman triumphal Arch of Sergius, one of the gateyways to the old town of Pula
A pretty pink house in Pula with three inlaid busts
The main square, Pula
Street scene, Pula
I think that the city of Pula makes a very intersting day trip and the Coliseum was the highlight of my visit. Personally I’d prefer to stay in Rovinj if I were visiting Istria again. That’s partly because although Pula is situated on the coast, there is no direct access to the seafront from the city as there is a large dockyard, (you can see one of the cranes to the left of the Temple of Augustus in my photo above).
Have you visited Pula? What did you most like about it?
I’d never been to a spa until my trip to Istria in Croatia in April 2009. This was for various reasons. I’d never felt a strong urge to be pampered, I thought that spa treatments were expensive and I wasn’t sure how I felt about a stranger massaging my body. However when I was offered a complimentary thirty minute massage by our hosts at Hotel Kastel im Motovun during the bloggers press trip to Isria in Croatia, I though why not try it.
Well I am glad to report that I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The moment that the masseuse started I though this is bliss and the thrity minutes just flew past. I wasn’t sure what to expect from the massage but I found it sensuous and relaxing, leaving me feeling so tranquil that I could have dozed off except that I had to leave for the airport in half an hour and hadn’t finished my packing.
Croatia is an ideal venue for spa treatments as the prices are much lower than in places such as the UK, the US and Italy with comparable standards. My 30 minute classic massage cost under £20. Have you had spa treatments in Croatia? How would you rate the quality and value from money.
I was really looking forward to visiting the village of Groznjan in Istria, Croatia as I’d read the Europe a la Carte post Groznjan: An artists colony in Croatia written by Neha.
Unfortunately it was raining during our visit but that didn’t diminish my enjoyment, I’m used to such things being Scottish. As we were there late afternoon in low season at the end of April, only a couple of galleries were open but the art on display there was very attractive and reasonably priced.
I’ve decided to try experimenting with adding some soundtrack to my videos as it’s bound to be a vast improvement on my patchty commentary. You can easily do an audio swap on youtube. I loved the track Rain Walking by MG! the Visionary from the album Jounrney2thecenterofself.
I’d love some feedback about my use of soundtracks on the europealacaerte videos. Do you enjoy the soundtrack or find it a distraction (I suppose you can always turn down the volume)?
