Archive for the ‘Authentic travel’ Category

Free walking tours of Bath, Bristol and Berlin

Thursday, June 4th, 2009Heather Cowper

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When you’re on a budget, one of the ways to enjoy the city you’re visiting is to do a free walking tour that takes you round the major sites, giving you a little background on each one. There are many ways to do this but my starting point is always the local tourism website or tourist office. I recently did just that when I spent a weekend in Bath for a family birthday celebration. We printed off the walking tour guide from Bath.co.uk (then click on City Trail). There are even little bronze plaques set into the pavement to mark out the route. Here’s a sample of the route we took;

Bath Cathedral

1. Bath Abbey
There’s been a church on this site for a thousand years, and England’s first King was crowned here. The carvings on the front of the Abbey show the dream of Bishop Oliver King who had it built . Angels climbed up and down a ladder to heaven in his vision, but the only way the stonemasons could distinguish between them was to make the downwardly mobile ones do it head-first.

Roman Baths at Bath

3. The Roman Baths
Britain’s only hot springs are right here. The Museum is well worth a visit, with modern audio-visual interactive displays, and you can walk right round the original Roman Baths, which are in an astonishingly good state of repair. The plumbing here is 2000 years old and still works; just as well, seeing as parts might be a problem.

The Pump rooms in the Roman Baths

4. The Pump Room
The Pump Room was built in 1706 as a sort of rendezvous for the sick. Bath’s doctors specialised in certain diseases – those of the rich. Spend five minutes inside the Pump Room listening to the live salon music and sipping a cup of water pumped up from the spring. Imagine Vichy spring water, with a whiff of fresh grass cuttings, and an aftertaste of elderflower. Well, it tastes nothing like that. It’s vile. They took it for analysis once and the verdict from the laboratory was, ‘This horse is pregnant’.

It was an entertaining tour, took us an hour or so and didn’t cost us a penny.

The Georgian house, Bristol

In Bristol, you can find about free walking tours on the Visit Bristol website here and they’ve gone to the trouble of making several audio walking tours that you can download onto your MP3 player. I’ve listened to them all and I especially enjoyed the Bristol Quayside adventure which has a Pirate theme and is great for families, and the Slave Trade Trail which starts at the Georgian House, once owned by a wealthy Bristol Merchant who made his fortune from his Caribbean plantation, worked by slaves.

The Brandenburg Gate in Berlin

Berlin is also a destination that is well known for it’s free walking tours. I didn’t take one myself, but I gather the guides are generally excellent, although you can’t call them truly free as there is an expectation that you will give a tip of €5-10 per person. Karen wrote about her free Berlin walking tour here. If you go the the Brandenberg gate, you won’t miss the signs indicating a tour about to start.

So if you’d enjoy a walking tour, take a little time to check out the local tourism websites and see what they have to offer – you may be pleasantly surprised.

If your home town or a city you’ve visited offers free printable or audio tours, or offers genuinely free guided tours, do leave a comment and let us all know.

All photos from Heatheronhertravels.com at Flickr

Visit the market at Campo de’Fiori in Rome

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009Heather Cowper

Even if you’re not self-catering in Rome, the daily market at Campo de’Fiori is a sight to delight your eyes and make your mouth water. Here you’ll find the freshest of fresh veg, multicoloured salads, and the specialities of the season – such as artichokes in the spring and funghi in the autumn. There are also some food shops around the market which are the perfect place to buy foodie souvenirs to take home, but get there before lunch to make the most of the market in full swing.

Vegetables in the market at Campo d'Fiori, Rome

You’ll find a Roman bakery institution here at Forno Campo de’Fiori which is the place to stop off there for a mid morning or lunchtime snack of some Pizza slices. This artizan bakery has been there for over a century turning out breads and pastries and you could tell by the bustling atmosphere that it was a hit with locals and tourists alike. Try the Pizza Bianca, the flat bread sprinkled in olive oil and sea salt or any of the pizza slices fresh from the oven. From outside you can peek through the window into the bakery area next door and see the metre long pizzas being prepared then popped into the oven.

Pizza being made at Campo de'Fiori

Having bought our slice of Pizza, we ate our snack on the steps of the monument in the middle of the square under the brooding statue of Giordano Bruno, the monk who was burnt in 1600 on this spot for heresy. Just in front of the bakery was a fountain which was used as a source of water for the nearby flower stalls.

Once the market is over, the locals briefly reclaim their square before the bars and restaurants fill up again for the evening and become a magnet for students to come and meet their friends for a drink or dinner.

More photos of Rome from Heatheronhertravels on Flickr here

A Great Day Trip from Lisbon: Sintra

Friday, April 3rd, 2009Andy Hayes

Lisbon is one of Europe’s fabulous capital cities: great food, wonderful weather, and a nightlife scene near unrivalled across the continent. However, getting away from the bustling atmosphere and soaking up some rural scenes of Portugal can be good for the soul. I’d recommend Sintra, an old village not much more than a hour outside of town via public transport or car.
sintra portugal

The castle grounds are beautiful and while exploring you’ll get some great views across the surrounding plains. The town itself has many winding streets and alleys which means you can easily spend an entire day wandering about looking at the mix of architecture.

The Palace of Sintra (shown above) is the highlight of the tour, with its colourful pastel walls and intricate design features. However, Pena Palace is a must see, with the lush Pena Park nearby. There is also a Moorish castle to be seen and the Regaleira Palace.

The historic town centre has the standard set of tourist souvenir shops as well as a few cosy cafes and restaurants. Many shops offer carryout so you can basically buy a picnic and find a bench nearby to enjoy. If the weather is nice, I’d recommend it as the people watching here is second to none.

Photo by Welland

Chance your arm at the Mouth of Truth in Rome

Thursday, April 2nd, 2009Heather Cowper

If you’re visiting Rome you might like to follow in the footsteps of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck and re-enact the scene in the film Roman Holiday. If you walk between the Circus Maximus and the Island in the Tiber you’ll find the  Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin where you can put your hand over the Bocca della Verità or Mouth of Truth which hangs in the portico of the Church.

 Audrey_Hepburn_and_Gregory_Peck_at_the_Mouth_of_Truth_Roman_Holiday_trailer

The carving is thought to be part of an ancient Roman fountain or perhaps a drain-cover. If a jealous lover wanted to test their partner’s fidelity, they would put their hand in the mouth of the stone river god – it was thought that a liar would have his hand bitten off but the faithful lover would go untouched.

When we stopped by to test out the legend, the queue of visitors having their photo taken was rather long, so we contented ourselves with watching other people have their photo taken with their hand in the mouth of the statue.

The Mouth of Truth in Rome

It’s a fun thing to do  and everyone seemed to emerge with their arm intact – just so long as you really are the faithful kind!

See my collection of Rome photos on Flickr

Ditch Rick Steve’s “time=money” formula – your trip to Europe is much more than a cost per hour calculation

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009Karen Bryan

I was horrified to read Rick Steves forumla for “time=money”, in his article “European travel is still within reach for the savvy“. To work our your trip cost per hour you divide the total cost of your trip by the number of waking hours you spend in Europe.

Crowds at The Louvre

Crowds at The Louvre by jmacmullin

Now I’m all for getting the most from your budget when travelling in Europe by finding cheap flights, the lowest accommodation price, travelling off peak etc. However if you apply the “time=money” rationale, you’ll try to cram in far too much and ending up not really seeing anything properly. Why not stay up all night to save on the overnight accommodation, pack in even more and reduce your cost per hour?

To generalise, I think that most North American visitors to Europe already try to fit in far too much. In these days of economic downturn, it’s even more tempting to think if I’m in Europe anyway, I may as well see the whole place.

What’s your opinion? Do you adhere to Nick Steve’s time=money formula or do you believe in a more leisurely, holistic approach to travel in Europe?

Four top spots to enjoy Spring in Europe

Friday, March 13th, 2009Andy Hayes

spring in europe

Well, the days are starting to get longer, the spring flowers have sprung, and despite a few flurries here and there, it is feeling distinctively like spring here in Europe. Now’s the time to start thinking about your next European holiday – often good airfare deals and hotel discounts can be had this time of year as the post-Christmas holiday rush has ended and folk are not quite yet planning summer holidays. As well, the economic climate means there are even more travel deals out there today. Here’s a few destinations to put at the top of your list for spring:

Madrid
Spain’s largest city is full of life any season of the year, but the summer weather can be brutally hot. During April and May the city has less rain than in winter and temperatures are very comfortable, even though snow can still be found in the nearby mountains. Don’t miss the Prado, which will also be less crowded at this time.

Amalfi Coast
Tucked away just south of Rome, this portion of the Italian cost can be well overcrowded in summer. But the fresh breeze from the sea brings warmer temperatures and less crowds in spring, meaning you can take time to enjoy the view and the neighbouring attractions such as the ruins at Pompeii.

Santorini
The tourist season starts in Santorini on March 1st – go any earlier and you’ll find many restaurants, B&Bs, and attractions closed. The weather can be very hot in summer but very comfortable in spring, and similar to Amalfi, you can relax and enjoy those stunning seaside views without all the hassle.

Prague
While the Czech capital will not be as warm and cozy as its southernly cousins in this list, spring is still a great time to go and enjoy the “real” Prague, avoiding the hordes of tourists that hit this town en masse come summer. See Charles Bridge at sunrise without a cast of thousands. Go to some of the city’s more popular restaurants without a reservation. Sit in one of the city centre squares and enjoy a cold Pilsner. You’ve earned it.

North-east Greece: Take the slow road from Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli.

Wednesday, March 11th, 2009Karen Bryan

Greece is a very popular summer sun holiday destination, with many direct flights to the various islands as well as several inland destinations.  Many package holidays to the North of Greece use the airport at Thessaloniki, with accommodation at the three-pronged peninsula of Halkidiki.

However, the area east of Thessaloniki stretching to the border with Turkey is most beautiful and little explored! It must be one of these pretty-well kept Greek secrets! Interesting, historic towns and mountainous villages on, or in close proximity to the sea, such as Kavala, Xanthi and Avdira, as well as the beautiful island of Thassos all lie within a 400km distance. Public transport is provided from Thessaloniki and there are also many local operators.

The E90 is the main road Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli, with many roads connecting to the various towns/villages in all directions, including Bulgaria to the North. The area can be best explored over one to two weeks using car hire from Thessaloniki and staying from 1-3 nights in strategic locations en route. Bring your camera, hiking boots AND swimming trunks!

TOWNS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

Thessaloniki, Greece

Thessaloniki harbour by joaoa. Note the shadow of the White Tower fort, part of the Byzantine fortifications.

The area east of Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli is rich in very diverse history, ranging from the paleolithic to the modern, with many, many, locations of interest. For simplicity, only some will be mentioned, leaving the traveller free to explore and discover further.

Kavala

This town lies 100km east of Thessaloniki, and it forms a magnificent crescent on the hill surrounding the north Aegean coastline. It is both beautiful and historic.

It was founded around 600BC and was famous for its gold mines, coin mint and as a seaport. It fell to the Romans around 170BC, and it was in that era that Paul the Apostle visited en route to Europe. Kavala was called Christoupolis (city of Christ) by the Byzantines and it was captured and burned by the Normans in 1185. While still being rebuilt it was again captured (with the rest of Greece) by the Ottoman Turks in 1387 and held till 1932. During this period (specifically between the 14th and 15th centuries) the city was once again destroyed and rebuilt. The Ottomans eventually added to the natural beauty of Kavala by the construction of an aqueduct as well as by extending the Byzantine fortress. It is due to all these influences that the city has an atmosphere and flavour all of its own.

Kavala

Kavala by Jorge-11

About 30km to the South-east lies the village of Keramoti, which forms the nearest approach to the island of Thassos. According to an ancient myth, Thassos was the island of the Sirens, the devilish women with a fish tail. Thassos was inhabited during pre-historic times, and the first known inhabitants were Thracian tribes. During the 7th century BC it was colonized by Greeks from Paros, who discovered its riches of gold, marble and lush forests. The island was eventually captured by the Athenians of antiquity and, following a brief but importnant period of occupation by the Genoese in the 14th century BC, when the fortifications were greatly improved, its later fortunes followed those of Greece. It was was eventually liberated from the Turks and reunited with the rest of Greece in 1912. Today the island is one of the few trully pine-wooded parts of Greece that are in very close proximity to beautiful beaches. However, recent fires have destroyed some of its natural beauty.

Bay

Thassos by Jonners

Xanthi (The city of the thousand colours)
This had its beginnings as a small Greek village, until the Ottomans brought settlers from the depths of Asia Minor circa 1500 AD. By the 17th century, Xanthi had become famous for its tobacco which led to prosperity. Two earthquakes, both in 1829, levelled the city, with the subsequent re-building resulting in huge economic development. During the early stages of the 20th century the city was captured and freed from the Bulgarians twice, eventually becoming a permanent part of Greece in 1919. Once again, Xanthi was occupied by Bulgarians between 1941-1944, then returned to the Greeks post world war II. The Bazaar is an interesting mixture of Greek and Turkish flavours in harmony and concert, and it takes place on Saturdays. Best times to visit are in February or March (Carnival, linked to Easter) and beginning of September for the Old Town Festival.

Ξάνθη Καρναβάλι - Xanthi Carnival 2008

Xanthi Carnival by agnostos69

Heading further east, we come upon Komotini, an inland town at this narrow strip of Greece between Bulgaria in the North and the sea to the south. The village of Maroneia lies 30km to the south of Komotini. In the 5th century BC Maroneia was the most prosperous city-state in the province of Thrace. Today it is pretty with old traditional houses and huge archaeological sites. These stretch all the way to the sea along a most peaceful valley, gentle hills and a view of Mt. Ismaros.

Εκτελούνται Μεταφοραί...

Komotini: one is never too far from colourful politics in Greece. Image by PIAZZA del POPOLO

Alexandroupoli, at journey’s eastern end, is the capital of the Evros Prefecture in Thrace and has a population of 70,000. It lies 15km kilometres west of the mouth of the river Maritsa (Evros) and 40km west from the border with Turkey.

Kalamaki beach - Alexandroupoli

Alexandroupolis beach with views to the island of Samothraki very near Turkey. By dimsis

Alexandroupoli’s war ravaged, bloody history only goes back to the 19th century, with the Ottoman Turks initially forming a small village to connect (Greek) Macedonia with Istanbul, and the village subsequently being captured by Russia in the late 1800s (Russian-Turkish war). The city returned to Ottoman control by the end of the war, and remained Turkish until the 1st Balkan war, when Bulgaria and Greece were allies. Eventually the town would be returned to Bulgaria, however it re-reverted to the Greeks in the 1920s following the 1st World war. Bulgaria was once again given the town by their comrades the Nazis during the 2nd world war occupation of Greece, and Alexandroupolis was returned to Greece at the end of hostilities. Between the wars, occupations and recent (2007) fires, the city is a surreal assembley of a mixture of different cultural remnants and modernity which you’ll either love or hate!

I hope that you have enjoyed our journey on the slow road  from Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli.  Have you visited this region, what did you think of it?

Mechelen, a former capital in Belgium

Friday, March 6th, 2009Andy Hayes

The tiny hamlet of Mechelen is a small city roughly halfway between the larger Belgian cities of Antwerp and Brussels. The city is all but missed by tourists on express trains that fly past without a second thought. However, the history of Belgium is laid bare and there are enough attractions to fill a weekend full of adventure. Mechelen was actually the capital of the then-called Netherlands from 1506 to 1530.

mechelen, belgium

The identifying mark of the city is Saint Rumbold’s Tower, a late-medieval structure that can be seen for miles around. It includes a number of interesting wood carvings and religious artworks from the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. Another popular sight are the charming 16th century houses. Although they are privately owned and cannot be toured, just admiring the exquisiteness of the wooden facades is sight in itself.

If the weather suits, a great option is one of the boat tours. At just under an hour, they are a great way to relax and to see the city from another perspective. Top off your trip afterwards with a beverage at Brewery Het Anker, which sells not only beer but jenever (Dutch/Belgian gin) and beer chocolates.

Eight churches are dotted around the main square, the Grote Markt. Besides Saint Rumbold’s, the Sint-Janskerk, the Begijnhofkerk, and the Refuge of the Abbey of Tongerlo are all known for the artwork and displays.

To reach Mechelen take one of the local trains from Brussels or Antwerp which depart on a regular basis. The trip is only 25 minutes.

Photo credit clayirving

Plan now to visit the 2010 Oberammergau passion plays

Thursday, March 5th, 2009Heather Cowper

It may seem a little early to book for a holiday in 2010 when you’re still finalising your travel plans for 2009, but the famous Passion Play at Oberammergau in Germany takes place only once every 10 years, and the limited places are open for bookings now. Nestled in a high Alpine valley in Bavaria, Oberammergau provides a breathtaking setting and the town itself is famous for its wood-carvers and the traditional painted houses, as well as the Passion play.

Passion Play in Oberammergau

The Passion Play was first performed in 1634 after the villagers made a vow that if the village was delivered from the bubonic plague they would perform the play about the Passion of Christ. 2000 actors, singers, instrumentalists and technicians, who by tradition must be born in Oberammergau take part in the play. Once the leading actors have been announced on Ash Wednesday 2009 a ‘hair and beard decree’ comes into effect where all players are called upon to grow long hair and beards for the occasion.

House in Oberammergau

If you visit the passion play between mid May and early October, you will only stay in the town for a couple of days, as places are so limited, so tours are normally combined with a visit to other areas such as Heidelberg, Innsbruck, Salzburg or Lake Garda. In the nine years when the Passion Play isn’t being held, there’s still plenty to see with the Museum of Oberammergau, nearby Linderhof castle and woodcarving studios as well as hiking and wellness activities in the beautiful Alpine scenery.

If you’d like to visit Oberammergau during the time of the passion plays, then contact a travel company that specialises in religious pilgrimages. The tours are expensive but for the spiritually inclined, it’s a once in a lifetime experience.

Useful websites
www.ammergauer-alpen.de
www.passionplay-oberammergau.com

Thanks to Rita Willaert for the photo on Flickr

Scotland: A Changing Nation

Friday, February 27th, 2009Andy Hayes

I think Scotland has always been a bit of a misunderstood country.  Always following in the shadow of its southern-ly neighbour England, the two nations have always had somewhat of a tense albeit friendly relationship.  This has resulted in Scotland developing a very strong national identity that sometimes is not clearly understood by the outside world.  Yes, there is more to the Scots culture than whisky (with no ‘e’), shortbread, and tweed kilts.

I’ve just found probably the best exhibition in recent memory which explores how Scotland’s culture has come to rise, with particular attention to more modern developments.  The National Museum’s Scotland: A Changing Nation uses multimedia, video, and text to take the visitor on a journey through Scotland’s development.  My favourite part is the multi-screen video section where Scottish residents, both famous and non, answer various questions like ‘What do you like most about Scotland’, ‘What is worst’, and ‘what is your favourite Scottish food.’  It is quite funny – although displeased to see Karen nor myself were featured.

national museum, edinburgh scotland

The section about emigration to Australia is quite interesting, and the footage of all the bands, actors, and actresses who are Scottish was an eyebrow-raiser, some of them I didn’t realize – Sean Connery was there of course, but don’t forget his musical colleagues Annie Lenox, Travis, and Simple Minds.

Best part about all of this?  It’s free!  Just head up to the top floor in the museum.  It’s probably worth mentioning that the museum has quite a few different exhibitions, both permanent and rotating.  You’ll want to dedicate a few hours to explore, but it is next to impossible to see everything in one day.

 Photo by yellowbookltd