As the history fan approaches the port of Naxos Town standing on deck the ferry, he or she will rejoice: it can already be seen from a distance that nearly 2000 years of history represented by some stunning monuments, can easily be explored and enjoyed within walking distance of each other. Sure, some legwork is required, but it is not too strenuous as opposed to other Greek islands and, as Naxos according to mythology is the birthplace of Dionysos, many lovely bars, cafes and restaurants invite to recharge batteries during the walk.

First on my Naxos sightseeing schedule was the Portara which is also the trademark of Naxos. The monumental gates stand on a tiny island connected to Naxos town and the port by a causeway. Built in the 6^th century BC the gates are thought to have belonged to a temple to Apollo which however was never completed. Stone blocks from the unfinished temple were transported and used for other buildings but the gates were just too massive to be moved, so, they still dominate the view and are a must see. t

Be careful though especially if a strong meltemi is blowing which is often the case in summer, I nearly got blown off the causeway but then I weigh only 48 kilos. Waves are crashing against the seawall on either side of the causeway and count on a – rather refreshing – sea water shower on your walk across. The views down the steep cliffs are nearly as amazing as the sight of the gates themselves.

Having it made across safely, I had my first refreshment stop in the beautiful café which is tucked in a sheltered niche of the causeway.

Back in Naxos harbour, I made my way along the waterfront and then turned left towards a sign indicating the Old Market. It’s really one of the many access roads to the castle of Marcos Sanudo which is the other trademark of Naxos. Built in 1207 it marked the beginning of the rule of the Venetians over the island which lasted until 1564 when it was conquered by the Ottomans.

Exploring the castle and in fact the entire Venetian settlement which covers the hill is a truly unique experience and one of the best things to do in Naxos. It’s uphill but not very steep and broad stone steps make it easy. The Old Market has a lot of wonderful shops, some souvenir, but some with amazing artwork, paintings and antiquities. Much of the way you walk through a tunnel which gives shelter from the summer heat.

At every twist and turn Venetian houses with their low entry ways emerge, all inhabited today and many of the mini mansions still in possession of the successors of the original Venetian owners.

I would have loved to visit the Venetian museum, but unfortunately I was too late. Make a note that museums are closed on Monday and on the rest o the week close at 3pm. Some do not open later, but the Venetian museum re-opens at 7.30pm. You can also admire the house of Marcos Sanudo himself, a church at the very top and simply enjoy one fabulous view after another. What I found particularly appealing is that this historical site is not a ‘site’ at all but a richly inhabited part of Naxos town where more than a few studios and apartments are for rent.

I arrived back down on the other end of the promenade where you find a café which offers the richest and most sinful ice cream dishes I have had in a long time.

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