This exceptional nature park, located in the province of La Coruna in Galicia, is a European destination which can, rightly, be considered an insider tip. People who think of visiting Galicia tend to flock to Santiago de Compostela, maybe pay a visit to Cap Finisterre or  look at the Tower of Hercules in La Coruna. They only need to travel some 70  miles further from La Coruna and enter a nature wonder land, the Fragas do Eume.

Fragas is the Gallego name for dense woodland and what you will find here, spread out over no less than 9125 ha is the largest, protected coastal Atlantic forest in Europe, home to many endangered species of flora and fauna as well as several outstanding medieval buildings and monuments, dreamy little towns, a fluvial beach along the river Madalena, waterfalls and Galicia’s most typical cheeses!

Fluvial beach along the ria Madalena

Center piece of the Fragas is the river Eume on its way to the Atlantic. The wet and warmer climate is responsible for the vegetation and the status of nature park helps to protect such rare animals as Eagle owls and Peregrine falcons.

There are three different access routes to the Nature Park all starting from highways LC 151 and AC 141 from Pontedeume.

The Eume Reservoir route is perhaps the most spectacular one as it leads along the huge water reservoir where, by the way, you can hire a kayak if you wish and then skirts the steep granite walls of the upper canyon.

Pontedeume, about 45 minutes drive south of the naval town Ferrol, is a charming example of a medieval town. Cobbled streets, remnants of city walls and, most prominently the stone bridge of the river Eume let you forget which century you are actually living in.

The current bridge replaces the original one which was constructed in 1380, had 68 arches, was more than 850 meters long and featured two watch towers, a chapel and a hospital for pilgrims right in the middle.

Pontedeume - bridge over river Eume

Come on a Saturday to Pontedeume and experience a typical Galicia market day with stalls boiling the national dish pulpo (squid) in copper pots, then cutting it up with scissors and serving  it sprinkled with vinegar and red pepper and a slice of crusty bread, a delicacy which has nothing in common with the piece of rubber one often has to chew when ordering squid.

Which ever route you take into the nature reserve of Fragas do Eume, you should not miss the monastery of Santa Maria de Montfero, with its baroque façade of upright Corinthian columns, unique in Galicia. The monastery dates back to the 10^th century and currently undergoes some renovation. A luxury spa and hotel is under construction nearby and I’ts hard to imagine a more peaceful place for a spot of R&R.

Monastery of Santa Maria de Montfero

Another town with a medieval history is Vilalba. Adjacent to the massive Torre de Andrade which is all that’s left from the city walls is a small ‘Parador’, as the state run luxury hotels in Spain are called which are located in the most interesting historical places all over the country.

But, what Vilalba is really famous for are the cheeses, called ‘tetas’ because of their shape and the sweets called rescones. You will find several shops along the main road which in themselvs are works of art because of the display of the merchandise and the way they are lovingly sliced and wrapped.

Handmade cheeses sold in Vilalba

Finally, you may decide to have a swim in the natural pool of the ria Madalena with its thermal water. Use of the pool and the facilities is absolutely free and you can even spend the night in the nearby Husa Hotel which also offers a plethora of health and beauty treatments.