Like so many buildings in Istanbul, the walls are lined with portraits, photographs, reminders of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. And the national football team of course. But it was not the photography on the walls that drew me to umut ocakbaşı.  It was that very seldom am I presented with ten sharp skewers dangling meat for dinner.  When I am, I don’t turn down the opportunity.

The European city of Istanbul is not always European. Part of the city lies in Europe, the other in Asia.  And while both sides have plenty to offer, umut ocakbaşı managed to keep me on the European side for a night.

The restaurant has several floors, each boasting a grill to call its own.  On it, several skewers of şiş kebab crackle.  For the vegetarians in the group, the grill does offer a couple of veggie varieties.  Before my eyes bulged and 10 skewers of meat were placed before me, several mezes were brought out and placed in front of me with simple instructions. Pick the ones you want, don’t pay for the others.

Following my decision, thin Turkish bread was brought out. I was warned to wait. The meat was still to come.  In front of all of us was placed a plate with the aforementioned skewers.  And dinner commenced.  I placed the thin bread in my left hand. Slopped some meze on. Picked up the skewer with my right, and attempted to remove the meat with the bread. And failed miserably. Resulting in a very messy hand and chuckles from the table of four Turkish men sitting next to us.

Luckily, I learn from my mistakes and the second attempt went much better when I realized that I should slide the meat off with the bread before I add my meze toppings.  Suddenly, the combinations were endless as various mezes were added (and subtracted) mixed with different spices.  The waiter masterfully hovered in the proximity, removing the now empty skewers before anyone got hurt.  Before long, the ten skewers of meat were gone, no one had been injured, and I was reminded just how much fun it can be to experience new restaurants in new cities.

The restaurant can be found in the city area called Beyoğlu near the main street, İstiklâl Cad.  Just off İstiklâl Cad is Hasnun Galip and umut ocakbaşı.  Enjoy.

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