The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

My family and I were on holiday in beautiful Montenegro, when we decided to take a daytrip into Kosovo – to the town of Pejë (in Albanian) / Peć (in Serbian). Of special interest to us were two spectacular Serbian Orthodox monasteries: the 14th century Dečani Monastery and the 13th century Patriarchate Monastery.

Travelling in the Balkans is wonderful: stunning nature, a mixture of cultures and influences and warm people. But it also requires lots of patience and flexibility, a spirit of adventure and the understanding that things don’t work the same as in other European destinations. As long as you are willing to accept this, you will certainly find this a rewarding destination.

This self-imposed patience and flexibility was sorely tested on our first attempt to cross into Kosovo from southeastern Montenegro. Although we missed the turnoff to Kosovo at the Montenegrin border town of Rožaje, road signs and our map confirmed a second border crossing into Kosovo. We were surprised by all the shepherds using what was essentially a road to an international border crossing as a grazing area; we were increasingly suspicious when the asphalt ended and the twisting dirt road became narrower and narrower. We stopped to ask, in our bad Montenegrin, two women herding cows if this was the road to Kosovo. After having (rightfully) laughed at us, they pointed out that this road had been in disuse for years and that we would have created a lot of problems with the soldiers at the border. Lesson learned : don’t always trust maps or even road signs in the Balkans – always check with the locals.

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

We managed on attempt number two and crossed into Kosovo from the Rožaje border crossing. European nationals only require an identity card to enter Montenegro, but a passport is necessary in Kosovo. Border crossing is smooth, but Kosovo is not recognized in international auto insurance policies, so you must also pay a mandatory 50 euro fee for Kosovar insurance (yes, even for a day). The drive through the Prokletije mountains and down to the valley of Pejë below is stunning and we were reminded of Switzerland or Austria. In the summertime, children sell berries they have picked in the forests along the road and they can often jump in front of cars, so drive cautiously. The road conditions are good.

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

Pejë itself is a bustling, chaotic city with a tremendous amount of rebuilding underway. Road signs are erratic. However, there are many KFOR soldiers posted along the road and we asked for directions quite a few times to ensure that we were on the correct road to the Dečani Monastery.

 The Serbian Orthodox Dečani Monastery is just a few kilometers out of the city and is in a  picturesque spot at the base of the Prokletije mountains. The stunning monastery, said to be the best-preserved medieval church in the Balkans, was named a UNESCO Heritage site in 2004, declaring it a place which “[combines] the influences of the eastern Orthodox Byzantine and the Western Romanesque traditions. The style played a decisive role in subsequent Balkan art.”

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

Dečani and the Orthodox priests living within it continue to be under the protection of Italian soldiers. You must have your passports ready. You will go through a check point and a  barricaded area before being told to park. Your documents and bags will be inspected and you are accompanied to the door by the soldiers. When we passed through the heavy gates, we felt as if we had been transported to another world. We were struck by  the absolute beauty and tranquility of this monastery constructed at the beginning of the 14th century by  King Stefan of Dečani.

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

Photo courtesy of the Dečani Monastery web site

It is all stunning: the beautiful marble facade, the fantastically preserved frescoes, the picturesque monastery housing and flowers – all surrounded by walls with views outside to the Prokletije mountain range. We spent a long time examining the details of the frescoes extending throughout the entire surface area of the walls.

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

Photo courtesy of the Dečani Monastery web site

After considerable time at Dečani, we drove on to the Patriarchate Monastery, closer to Pejë and at the entrance of the stunning Rugova gorge. The 13th century Patriarchate is home to Serbian Orthodox nuns and is also under the protection of Italian soldiers. The soldiers were very professional and efficient – photographing our car and its license plate and following procedures similar to those in Dečani before allowing us entrance. The frescoes here are also spectacular and span from the 13th through the 16th centuries, although they are less well-preserved than those at Dečani. As in much of the Balkans, with its history of centuries of invasions and fighting, one is always in awe that these beautiful places still exist at all. We felt incredibly lucky to have visited these stunning landmarks and highly recommend a visit to these lovely monasteries.

 We had very little time left for exploration of Pejë, but the Kosovar people were warm and welcoming to tourists. There is clearly not much tourism yet, so they are happy to encourage you to travel to other parts of Kosovo. We had an excellent lunch before bracing for the mountain drive back to Montenegro.

The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

6 thoughts on “The monasteries of Pejë/ Peć in Kosovo

  1. wilkijs

    Nice blog. On various return visits we’ve stuck mostly to the coastal region but the next time we’re looking to explore the interior a bit more and see all this abundant lush nature and wild beauty that everyone goes on about, though hadn’t thought of going as far as Kosovo, until now – your story makes it worthy of consideration. thanks.

  2. Kimberly

    Hi wilkijs – happy to see another enthusiastic Balkan traveller out there! DO try get to Kosovo. Dečani especially is a real gem, with literally thousands of fantastically preserved frescoes. When you enter, you can’t help but have the distinct impression that this was exactly how it looked for visitors in the 1300s. Just heed my advice to ignore ANY signs pointing you to Kosovo except the one at Rožaje – you’ll save yourself lots of time! Happy travels…

  3. Ali

    Hi Kimberly,
    Nice writeup.
    I am planning on traveling by bus the other way, Pristina-Peje-Podgorica-Sarajevo. (I fly into Pristina)
    I guess the bus driver will drive through the right border crossing.

  4. Kimberly

    Hi Ali,

    Sounds like a fascinating trip. And yes, I think you’ll be safe with a driver who will know where to cross the border. : ) Enjoy!

  5. Elizabeth

    This is a great and really clear write-up – I’m hoping lots of people will follow in your footsteps, Kimberly! I’m a British woman living in Kosovo and working to promote sustainable tourism here. The monasteries are stunning, just as you describe them. And if you want to stay over there are some great homestays in the region near Peja – the Rugova valley, for example – and also some restored traditional Albanian stone house ‘kullas’ run as bed and breakfasts, which make for a great experience, with old carvings, embroideries – and the wonderful hospitality you talk about. Climbing, hiking and mountain biking in these mountains too.

  6. Kimberly

    Thank you for your comments, Elizabeth! I took a look at your excellent site and I will keep it for reference for a future trip
    (we love hiking and plan on returning for a longer visit). The ‘kullas’ sound like a wonderful way to experience the region. By the way, I see we share an admiration for Edith Durham and her writings. I love her books and photographs of the region. Quite an impressive woman.

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