A real surprise when I visited Poland was discovering how fascinating it was to visit Wolf’s Lair or Wolfschanze, the camp in northern Poland near Ketrzyn which was one of Hitler’s main bases during the latter half of World War Two. I was expecting a bland historical site, but it’s something much more.
I stayed in the hotel on site at Wolf’s Lair – it freaked me out a little to imagine that it used to be Hitler’s personal security quarters, but these days it’s a modern enough hotel, and not too expensive. The big advantage is it means you are right there at the Wolf’s Lair site before the tourists arrive. Most of the site these days consists of destroyed concrete buildings and bunkers, half overgrown by forest, and it’s very interesting to walk all the way around the site both admiring the green and being shocked by what your guide (paper or person) tells you used to take place in each building or bunker. Most memorably, there is a plaque identifying the spot where von Stauffenberg placed the bomb that was intended to kill Hitler in July 1944, and you can’t help but wonder how different history may have been if it had been successful.
Tips for 25 Things to Do in Poland
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