Every weekend without fail, I make my way to one of Zagreb’s landmarks – Dolac, the open air farmers’ market. Located a few paces behind the city’s main square, this is Zagreb’s oldest and most frequented market.

Dolac is often referred to as Zagreb’s belly. It was set up in 1930 on the grounds of a rundown housing estate. Back in the day, when the city planners were at work, they deemed the shabby sprawl as an eyesore and not worth the prime spot it was occupying. They razed the estate and in its place set up what was at that time one of Europe’s modern markets.

The market is divided into an indoor market hall and the terrace stalls. Inside you’ll find an assorted range of meats and dairy products. Try some of the local specialities like the spicy sausages, the air dried ham (prsut, similar to the Italian prosciutto) and homemade cheese. The terrace belongs to fresh produce and handicrafts. Piles and piles of inviting strawberries and melons are joined by an assortment of fruits, vegetable, flowers and other edible items like honey and bottles of homemade olive oil. You’ll also find some exquisite traditional handicrafts on sale along the outer edges of the market.

Peasants, artists and traders from surrounding villages all make their way to Dolac to make a sale. The market is especially electric on the weekends when the whole city shows up to stock up. Between the haggling, the bargaining and the laughing, you get to see the real face of Zagreb.