Guest writer Margaret Doherty explains why she was really impressed by the array of things to do in Basel, Switzerland.

“On the border of three countries – France, Germany and Switzerland – spanning the river Rhine and Switzerland’s only port, Basel has a long history as an affluent and cultured city. Once a vital medieval trade route, its early industries of paper-making and dyeing laid the foundations of its modern pharmaceutical industry. Basel also boasts Switzerland’s oldest university, founded in 1460, and renowned residents such Holbein and Erasmus as well as its most recent famous son, tennis champion Roger Federer.

Tinguely Fountain, Basel

Traces of this medieval city survive in many charming buildings throughout the Old Town in Greater Basel on the south bank of the river. (Lesser Basel on the north bank is the more residential and modern part of the city.) Three city gates that were once part of the city’s walled defences have also survived from this period, including the splendidly Gothic Spalentor with its towers and portcullis.

The variety and quality of its museums are a major plus – Basel has over forty of them. The blend of traditional and modern that defines the city’s architecture is also reflected in its museums. The Music Museum is housed in the Lohnhof, in one of a cluster of buildings around the medieval church of St Leonhard and a former men’s prison until 1995. Each small gallery is in a cell painted dark grey with the objects on display – instruments, paintings and other related artefacts – deftly lit in the darkness. At the end of each cell is a multimedia information system where you can find information in English and German and can select a host of musical pieces spanning five centuries of European musical history. In contrast to the delightful strains of Bach and Mozart, one of the cells has been left as it was prior to renovation. With its single beds, graffiti covered walls and high, tiny window, it’s a stark reminder of the building’s previous function.

The Haus zum Kirschgarten is the house of a wealthy ribbon merchant built in the eighteenth century. Its many rooms reflect the domestic taste and lifestyle of its owners during this period – expensive furniture and huge, ornately tiled heaters stand in many of the rooms. Don’t miss the house’s outstanding collections of porcelain, toys and clocks and watches.

The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen is a short ride from the city centre. Designed by Renzo Piano, who also designed the Pompidou Centre in Paris, it contains around 200 paintings and sculptures collected by art dealer Ernst Beyeler and his wife Hildy. Its light, white spaces display works by artists such as Matisse, Picasso, Klee and Monet, whose Water Lilies overlooks a water-lily pond in the lovely gardens with views out to the German countryside across the border.

Fondation Beyeler sculptures, Basel

Top Tips

Soak up some of the café culture in pretty flower-filled courtyards like St Andrews, a favourite haunt of students and locals. With over 150 fountains in Basel, find your favourite spot for a bit of people watching.

Discover the work of Swiss artist Jean Tinguely (1925-1991). You can get a taste of his kinetic iron sculptures at the Tinguely Fountain on Steinberg and explore his work more fully at the Tinguely Museum.

Take a ferry ride across the Rhine at one of the four points along the river where the little wooden boats have crossed since the late nineteenth century. Low in the water and attached to a cable that spans the river (without it they wouldn’t be able to cope against the swift-flowing current) at 1.60CHF it’s a bargain and gives another perspective of the city.

Middle Bridge, Basel

Follow one of the city walks that you can pick up from the Marktplatz where you can follow in the footsteps of famed inhabitants including Erasmus, Holbein and Paracelsus. There isn’t much information to be had on these walks but you will get to explore off the beaten track and discover older parts of the city such as St Alban with its shuttered houses, narrow alleys and streams or the Old Town with its charming squares, medieval lanes and fountains. If you want a guided tour there are many available, from an audiovisual iGuide to a customised tour in a chosen language. See the Basel website for for details.

Browse in the markets for local produce – cheese and chocolate, obviously – but Basel is also famous for Lackerli, biscuits made from honey, almonds and kirsch. There are weekday local produce markets in the Marktplatz and on Saturday mornings there’s a busy flea market on Petersplatz.

Though much of the city can be explored on foot visitors are given a free travel pass for the duration of their stay on the local trams, trains and buses. Make the most of it with a trip out to Riehen to the Fondation Beyeler.

Basel Tram

Most of the museums have an entrance fee but there are significant sites that are free. It costs nothing to visit the Rathaus, the brightly painted town hall, with its vivid frescoes and open courtyard, in the Marktplatz. The Munster, Basel’s twelfth century cathedral, on an elevated position overlooking the Rhine, is also free to visit. Highlights include its distinctive spires, the cloister and the frescoes in the crypt. Behind the Munster is Pfalz, a great spot to take a breather with a viewpoint over the Rhine. And it costs nothing to stroll along the banks of the Rhine under the shade of the lime trees past well-kept shuttered houses. Keep an eye out for the narrowest house in Basel and for the brave swimmers that regularly take a dip in the fast-flowing waters.

When to go
Regarded as the cultural capital of Switzerland Basel is pretty much a year round destination with world-class attractions like the Kuntsmuseum, currently drawing visitors with its Van Gogh, Between Earth and Heaven,The Landscapes exhibition which runs until Sept 27, 2009. Many annual festivals also draw large numbers of visitors. The Basel Tattoo held every July has featured representatives from 18 countries and five continents since it began in 2006. This year’s line-up had a cast of 900 including The Regimental Band of her Majesty’s Coldstream Guards and the Band of the Blues and Royals from England, the Luftwaffenmusikkorps 2, from Germany and the Swiss Polizeimusik Basel. The famous Swiss drumming contingent Top Secret were one of the highlights of a colourful and lively show in the courtyard of a historical barracks.

Behind the scenes at the Basel Tattoo

For art lovers Art Basel in June is the biggest international art fair for modern and contemporary work. Such festivals are very popular and you’ll need to book well in advance as accommodation and the events themselves sell out quickly.

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