Greece is a very popular summer sun holiday destination, with many direct flights to the various islands as well as several inland destinations. Many package holidays to the North of Greece use the airport at Thessaloniki, with accommodation at the three-pronged peninsula of Halkidiki.

However, the area east of Thessaloniki stretching to the border with Turkey is most beautiful and little explored! It must be one of these pretty-well kept Greek secrets! Interesting, historic towns and mountainous villages on, or in close proximity to the sea, such as Kavala, Xanthi and Avdira, as well as the beautiful island of Thassos all lie within a 400km distance. Public transport is provided from Thessaloniki and there are also many local operators.

The E90 is the main road Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli, with many roads connecting to the various towns/villages in all directions, including Bulgaria to the North. The area can be best explored over one to two weeks using car hire from Thessaloniki and staying from 1-3 nights in strategic locations en route. Bring your camera, hiking boots AND swimming trunks!

TOWNS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

Thessaloniki harbour by joaoa. Note the shadow of the White Tower fort, part of the Byzantine fortifications.

The area east of Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli is rich in very diverse history, ranging from the paleolithic to the modern, with many, many, locations of interest. For simplicity, only some will be mentioned, leaving the traveller free to explore and discover further.

Kavala

This town lies 100km east of Thessaloniki, and it forms a magnificent crescent on the hill surrounding the north Aegean coastline. It is both beautiful and historic.

It was founded around 600BC and was famous for its gold mines, coin mint and as a seaport. It fell to the Romans around 170BC, and it was in that era that Paul the Apostle visited en route to Europe. Kavala was called Christoupolis (city of Christ) by the Byzantines and it was captured and burned by the Normans in 1185. While still being rebuilt it was again captured (with the rest of Greece) by the Ottoman Turks in 1387 and held till 1932. During this period (specifically between the 14th and 15th centuries) the city was once again destroyed and rebuilt. The Ottomans eventually added to the natural beauty of Kavala by the construction of an aqueduct as well as by extending the Byzantine fortress. It is due to all these influences that the city has an atmosphere and flavour all of its own.

Kavala by Jorge-11

About 30km to the South-east lies the village of Keramoti, which forms the nearest approach to the island of Thassos. According to an ancient myth, Thassos was the island of the Sirens, the devilish women with a fish tail. Thassos was inhabited during pre-historic times, and the first known inhabitants were Thracian tribes. During the 7th century BC it was colonized by Greeks from Paros, who discovered its riches of gold, marble and lush forests. The island was eventually captured by the Athenians of antiquity and, following a brief but importnant period of occupation by the Genoese in the 14th century BC, when the fortifications were greatly improved, its later fortunes followed those of Greece. It was was eventually liberated from the Turks and reunited with the rest of Greece in 1912. Today the island is one of the few trully pine-wooded parts of Greece that are in very close proximity to beautiful beaches. However, recent fires have destroyed some of its natural beauty.

Thassos by Jonners

Xanthi (The city of the thousand colours)
This had its beginnings as a small Greek village, until the Ottomans brought settlers from the depths of Asia Minor circa 1500 AD. By the 17th century, Xanthi had become famous for its tobacco which led to prosperity. Two earthquakes, both in 1829, levelled the city, with the subsequent re-building resulting in huge economic development. During the early stages of the 20th century the city was captured and freed from the Bulgarians twice, eventually becoming a permanent part of Greece in 1919. Once again, Xanthi was occupied by Bulgarians between 1941-1944, then returned to the Greeks post world war II. The Bazaar is an interesting mixture of Greek and Turkish flavours in harmony and concert, and it takes place on Saturdays. Best times to visit are in February or March (Carnival, linked to Easter) and beginning of September for the Old Town Festival.

Xanthi Carnival by agnostos69

Heading further east, we come upon Komotini, an inland town at this narrow strip of Greece between Bulgaria in the North and the sea to the south. The village of Maroneia lies 30km to the south of Komotini. In the 5th century BC Maroneia was the most prosperous city-state in the province of Thrace. Today it is pretty with old traditional houses and huge archaeological sites. These stretch all the way to the sea along a most peaceful valley, gentle hills and a view of Mt. Ismaros.

Komotini: one is never too far from colourful politics in Greece. Image by PIAZZA del POPOLO

Alexandroupoli, at journey’s eastern end, is the capital of the Evros Prefecture in Thrace and has a population of 70,000. It lies 15km kilometres west of the mouth of the river Maritsa (Evros) and 40km west from the border with Turkey.

Alexandroupolis beach with views to the island of Samothraki very near Turkey. By dimsis

Alexandroupoli’s war ravaged, bloody history only goes back to the 19th century, with the Ottoman Turks initially forming a small village to connect (Greek) Macedonia with Istanbul, and the village subsequently being captured by Russia in the late 1800s (Russian-Turkish war). The city returned to Ottoman control by the end of the war, and remained Turkish until the 1st Balkan war, when Bulgaria and Greece were allies. Eventually the town would be returned to Bulgaria, however it re-reverted to the Greeks in the 1920s following the 1st World war. Bulgaria was once again given the town by their comrades the Nazis during the 2nd world war occupation of Greece, and Alexandroupolis was returned to Greece at the end of hostilities. Between the wars, occupations and recent (2007) fires, the city is a surreal assembley of a mixture of different cultural remnants and modernity which you’ll either love or hate!

I hope that you have enjoyed our journey on the slow road from Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli. Have you visited this region, what did you think of it?